What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

That reeks of electrical issue.

 

Oh yea. It definitely is. Just trying to pinpoint it while it’s so intermittent is a nightmare

 

Just for shits and giggles, did you unmount the fuse/relay box under the hood to check all the connections from the bottom?

Maybe worth looking for signs of water damage/corrosion on the fuse/integration box in the cab?

 

My double cab topper was made for a double cab and it leaks too!

 

I’ve had the intake manifold off to check for mice activity (there was, but nothing chewed) I’ve had the fuse block torn apart, I’ve swapped parts I had laying around from my truck… all the sudden it’s fine with all the shit it came in with.

 

This trucks been at another shop for 3 months chasing this issue. They’re documentation showed they really dig into it as well.. it’s a weird issue

 

Agreed.
I've always taken them off . . . for no particular reason other than 'fit', seems like the shell 'seats' better straight to the bed. . . but who knows.
My last 2003 Tundra AC I had, I bought a shell and took them off before mounting the shell. Kept them, and gave them to the kid who I sold the truck to.
The 2006 DC I have now which I bought from a neighbor has a Snug Top that was installed at the Snug Top Factory in Long beach CA . . . they removed the plastic plates as well . . but must have tossed them cause the guy didn't have them when I bought the truck.
I don't like when you see the plastic plate peeking through between the cap & bed rail . . . but I'm a geek, so there's that.

 

I put some nice and bright and shiny Amber DRL bulbs in the little DRL spots in these new Chinesium quality headlights and I noticed they ain't lighting up! What the hell? Where the DRL relay or harness at? Thanks.

 

I'm guessing you did the power wire corrosion check shake too? Might be worth adding a short 10ga power wire from batt to fuse box to check it (or use yours).

Also did you swap ignition switches to see if a partially burnt contact inside?

 

ive done just about everything i can within the time thats been approved for diagnostic. including swapping the switch


as of now its not acting up.. so keep test driving as i can.

 

Thanks. Yea, the fit as-is is pretty clean and I don't see any of the plastic sticking through. It def leaks from the the corners, which I've addressed with the butyl rubber. I am going to to try sil-gylde as well on the rubber.

 

Go for it! Youll have memories that last a lifetime. Plus right now in California gas is $4.99 a Gallon! Yay, haha

 

Is it LED, and if so, is the socket keyed to prevent installing backwards?

IIRC, the DRL harness terminates into a connection between the battery and fender, a few inches behind the driver side blinker. You should be able to see along the side of the battery IIRC. But it's been a minute.

 

That’s where mine are. And also a tow power injection there too it seems. For the rear 9 pin to power a tow module.

 

"Cannot Duplicate issue"

 

I dunno, I've gone to new places only to discover I have been there before. But, I agree - GO FOR IT!

 

Hot damn, my memory worked for a change.

(seriously though, I feel like I get it wrong or twisted way too often these days)

 

Dry-running the rocket stove for this weekend. More rain today. More leaking into the shell. Perhaps another option for sealing:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DURA-LIFT-Foam-Garage-Door-Bottom-Weather-Seal-9-ft/5002151557

 

Your gonna have to pin point the leak, the ol @shifty` way, mask/tarp off one side or the other and maybe separate it into quadrants and start lightly spraying the shell and see where it’s coming from. Your window drains could be clogged or even the seal around the windows to the shell could be kaput

 

Did you build it yourself?

 

Day into night to tune my limits and bumps. The stubby, used to be adjustable clevis(s) got bent for being too long and crossing from outside of the frame to the inside on full leaf stuff. Might be good now.

 

My buddy builds them. It's a pretty cool design, however, and requires almost no wood to cook with.

 

Went out to install my downstream O2 sensors at lunch and gave up after a crosswind hit my face bringing the temp from mid 40s down to what seemed like mid 20s.

Don't need that sh*t today. Hopefully, there'll be a warm day this month. Out after the 16th on vacay until the end of the year.

 

Really considering just pulling the trigger on the archive garage springs and waiting for them.

 

The cost of leaf springs baffles me, crazy expensive.

 

What’s funny is I’m pretty sure they all come from the same place, a guy with deaver on my last run has the exact same sticker I have on mine just with different company names

 

Probably made by a Chinaman in Korea.

 

They say USA, maybe that means the sticker was made in USA

 

"Made in USA from internationally sourced parts"

 

(i.e. ain't shit made here, all the major work is done is Asia for pennies on the dollar, including putting the Made in USA sticker on it, then we bolt it together the way we like, and upcharge 800%)