1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

A plug in 7 pin using the 4 flat is what I plan for crackie. That way I only have to run the additional wires like you said.

 

deets?

 

Replaced the brains. So I can send you my broken one if you want to try to fix it? Or I can open it up and see. Or I can just buy you a new one?

took me 2 hours to swap it out in the Costco parking lot.

 

the integration relay?

 

I think that’s what it’s called.

 

I suspect I need to get these hoses out of the tire path?

 

What if you got some sort of remote cutter like this hydraulic one
YSP-30 | Huskie Tools
taped the camera to it, fed it into the pipe & chomped down on that cap & dragged it back & out. Worst case, cut the cap into two pieces & drag each piece back. Doing it yourself would have to cost less than having the plumber go 'fishing' for it & surely cheaper than busting up the foundation.

 

I’ll bet either my BIL or younger brother would know how to get that out. They’re both civil engineers and the BIL works for the MWRA. I’m sure he’s seen his share of foreign objects blocking sewage drains.

 

This looks like a good but expensive tool solution. Probably better if you can rent one for a few days.

 

quick - ask them. At least they'll know what the tool that surely exists is called.

 

I plan to see both of them this Thursday since I’m having turkey day at the BIL’s house. Everyone will be there afterwards for desert. I’ll ask them and show your solution.

 

Won't make it through the pipe curves, but good idea. I was thinking of anything that could be slid in, then "umbrella'd out" once inside, to pull back towards the toilet flange for retrieval, but the cap pictured was covering a 4" hole, chances of it getting stuck are high.

Where the offending box is now, if we saw and jackhammer a 12"x24" hole in the foundation, it's about 10" thick in this spot, and will provide direct access. I have bare-floor access in the exact spot we need to cut, so no need to tear out flooring.

We've already spent about 5 hours trying to find various ways to get it out, 4hrs with a snake before getting a camera and seeing what it was, then another hour after trying various ways to get at it. At this point, we know the box they installed is not only not-up-to-code, but it's going to cause other potential issues with flow, so spending an hour to jackhammer the foundation, 30 min to cut it out and splice in a new section, then 45 to backfill and re-pour ... makes more sense than me paying hourly on "could maybe work" solutions that are a way less invasive.

Sometimes you gotta break eggs to make a cake. I personally don't want to take time trying to carefully peel the egg away from the shell, I'm ready for this work to be done

GC's brother is the plumber. They're apologetic, and it seems like they're going to show a little grace on the bill.

 

Shit sucks

 

We've only drilled the floor at this point checking for depth, we haven't jackhammered. If you have ideas before 10am Eastern tomorrow, feed them at me.

The offending cap is under a basement foundation, halfway down a 6ft curvy run between our fully-installed toilet flange and a "T" to the main 4" drain line. Reality is, it's about 7-8ft in there, due to p-trap, bends and twists and turns. And there's no access available via the main 4" drain line because it has an unfortunate curve which makes it impossible to get in there. And it's lined with about 1/4" thick layer that is 20yrs of shit slather. The other side is totally clean.

 

Do you have to mix the concrete different since it's foundation? I would assume a stronger mix then usual.

 

@shifty` Look at the bright side. Now you’ll have a new hole and plumbing line for a sump pump install.

 

Couldn't you get like a bladder thing you push down the hole, fill with air, and then pull back like a catheter?

 

It's a basement with concrete walls. The foundation itself isn't load-bearing toward the inside, the foundation is ~10" thick through the middle, and gets much thicker on the outer rim to support the concrete/rebar walls.

Ballpark of what we're up against is this: The jackasses who built the house put in a weird, square, mystery 4-way PVC junction box a couple feet before the main 4" drain. Then they capped it, either on the line to the toilet or the line to the main. We knocked the cap loose, and it's impossible to get out.

Lines aren't accurate, but pretty damn close. I think the shower actually comes in on the toilet side of the 4-way box.

 

The cap shown in the picture was capping off one hole of the 4-way box and would need to be mutilated to be able to come back through the hole because the OD of the cap is larger than the ID of the 4-way box hole.

 

I do know the town/city that’s responsible for their section of the sewage line has equipment to pulverize tree branches that clog drain lines although they work where it’s iron pipe and not pvc. They can generally get access from the house trap or the street sewage line.

Not sure I can get an answer by am tomorrow though. You may be out of luck in that respect.

 

BTW - appreciate all the suggestions, guys. Not trying to shoot everyone down.

 

Plumber had the same tool they use for roots. It's a spade-like attachment, here's also a U-shaped attachment, and it goes on the end of the snake. That's what we used to bust it out of there. You can see we banged it up pretty good in some of the other photos we took. I don't have those. We hit it hard enough to pop off the O-ring on the cap, then used the egg-beater attachment for the snake to pull that back out.

City is only responsible for everything on the other side of the meter, so we're screwed on that front.

 

Sorry for the ugly turn in your reno. But you further convince me I did right buying an old untouched house.
My place is still running the knob & tube wiring. I leave it alone; it leaves me alone. I'm good living in Grandmas house. Next guy can rebuild this place, I'm just gonna focus on keeping water out. Good luck with it, I'm sure it'll be great eventually.

Just remembered a story.
Brand new hotel. During construction plumbers & sheetrockers got into it.
First night open was a sellout, first morning everyone hit the head at the same time & sewage started coming up all the first-floor tubs.
Sheetrockers shoved rags & coffee cups into the plumbing main lines during construction. Sure-showed them...

 

I was thinking of a root saw cutter actually. What you describe is different though. Regardless, I don’t think there’s an easy solution.

 

Fun fact…. SPC is making some of the parts for the TRD factory lift on the tundra now

 

4” slab wasn’t bad. Used my skill saw with an abrasive blade, Diamond I think, to cut the perimeter. Used a sledge to bust up the concrete. 10” thick is gonna need a jackhammer for sure. Cutting first May make the eventual patch cleaner.

 

Ah. This guy has a spade-shaped bit he uses to blow through roots, and a U-shaped bit for more hair-like roots.

 

The “wrecking ball” is another nice attachment, and a double drop/swivel to get thru Ptraps is key

 

It's all PVC in there, so I'm a bit skeptical about a "wrecking ball" attachment