Sniv Speed Shop - Custom Parts and Design

Octane will be the same at 91 tuner will just adjust the timing etc. 750cc and the 450 pump should be more than enough I imagine.

 

I think 750s and 450lph will be fine. Even 650s will probably be fine. I'm at 8psi currently and can still dip below 11afr with the 535cc injectors. Tune wise, I have no idea. In my mind you have a trade off of either change the tune or change the octane. I'm going to change my tune since I only have 91 octane too, so will just have to retard the timing a bit to keep the truck happy.

Perfected skinny pedal would definitely be doable going to California. The other alternative that I still want to explore is just manually lock open the boost bypass (or add a spacer to control how much it can close). Then you don't have to worry about throttle and just turn off/limit the boost for that trip.

 

Damn, the mind can't make up which one, but for the re-tune, I'm going with wideband O2s this time.

 

Ordered! Badass !!!

 

Will be ordering soon!

 

Not a worry at all... I'm grateful to be on the list! Thanks for the update but for me, there are no worries!

 

Likewise! I'm a patient man. Still waiting on a vented hood for my M3. I get an email almost every three weeks of a new delayed date lol

 

Ugh. I was already planning on shooting him an email tomorrow to ask for an update. Maybe an extra nudge will help

 

They said it should ship early next week

 

Harrop uses different size pulleys altogether

 

@snivilous how did you remove the old pulley? I have a 3 jaw puller that I used on the taco s/c, but I also had the URD tool to screw into the shaft so that you don't damage the threads with the jaw puller. Unfortunately that is lost in storage somewhere. Have a 20-ton shop press at a friends to install the new hub. Also any advice on that process? I used a toaster oven and the URD tool on the taco and that was kinda a pain

 

Yes, 3 jaw puller. I think I rented one from the store the first time, and it was a bitch but worked. Similarly this time I forced a 3 jaw crank puller to work I had laying around. The key I found the first time was a metal backing, otherwise the puller just ripped through the aluminum. I cut out two sections of steel and welded them behind the pulley and then pulled on that. I honestly don't know what the best way is, maybe someone else can say. In the below picture you can see where I have the backing plate and then welded wire around the arms to prevent them sliding. Maybe a 3 jaw that can get in there far enough to pull closer to the center of the pulley (as opposed to just pulling the lip that holds the belt) and then weld or wrap a band around the arms so they can't move?





For installation, that is something I've perfected especially in your case, and I would recommend to anyone else, unbolt the blower from the engine, just lift up the nose and then unbolt the nose. Since yours isn't installed yet this is the obvious way to go. You will see the back side of the nose shaft where it slides into the coupler (which I recommend replacing if it's not already brand new). I then use a socket between those three pins so the pins don't get loaded and potentially bend, and then just press the pulley onto the other side and squish it pulley - shaft - socket. The pulley hub needs to be pressed on so the outer face is flush with the end of the shaft.





Installation of the hub should be super simple and easy, no risk of stripping out threads or needing to heat anything up.

The hub has a relatively large and accessible lip and is a very strong stainless alloy, so in the event it needs to be removed I think it'd be easier than any press on pulley.

With the hub installed I installed the supercharged so the pulley wouldn't risk getting beat up as you maneuver the blower, but it does make it a little annoying threading all the 4-40s in. I will say I put some anti seize on the mating surface of the pulley to the hub to help avoid galvanic corrosion since it's raw aluminum on raw stainless. The pulley is bi-directional so it's orientation does not matter.

4-40s are pretty small and need very little torque, on the order of 5-6 INCH-pounds. Considering most people don't have anything that's reading that low and it'd be annoying to get a wrench in there and have the right size socket, I just put a dab of lock tight on and gently snugged them down with an Allen. The bolts ONLY hold the pulley from slipping off the front, and nominally take no load during operation. Additionally there are a huge excess of bolts, so don't over think it, just gently snug them down and the shear tabs do the heavy lifting, and if you ever break a bolt off or a bolt falls out or you decide to only run 2 out of 12 bolts, that should not compromise anything.

I should probably send all this to Matt so he can print it off and put it in the packaging

 

Sweet, thanks! After seeing the picture of that 3 jaw puller, I remembered I actually had to go back and rent the larger 3 jaw because it seemed like I was about to snap the bolt on the size you used! Then again I was working with a s/c that had 80k miles on it, maybe this one will be easier.

 

A torch might go a long way too

 

I ordered this tool, should arrive tomorrow. Will use it to determine thread/pitch on the pulley shaft hole. Then buy a small hex head bolt to screw in, preventing damage to the threads when using the jaw puller. Should arrive tomorrow

[Patent]CKE Upgraded Nut & Bolt Thread Checker (Inch Metric) Detachable Wire Loop Design - 34 Male/Female Gauges 18" 16 Metric and Size Identifier Gauges, Black, (C117127)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3R6Z9F7

 

@snivilous the Tundra pulley shaft threading is the same as the Tacoma. So the URD pulley tool will work for those that have it, or want to order it if they don't have access to a press

https://urdusa.com/urd-install-tool-for-press-fit-supercharger-pulleys/

 

I love the idea and I'm interested but I want to see if the actual boost matches the calculations for a reasonable amount of miles. I've shredded a Continental belt and worn out another belt and now on to a green belt with everything working ok and a 2.3" Griptec. I don't know of any superchargers running a pulley that small.

 

That's true! It'll be good to document it over time and how the belt holds up and if there's any slip.

 

To get the pulley off without damaging the threads

$1.25 at home Depot, M8 x 1.25 x 10mm

 

Be nice to be able todo the swap with out taking the snout off

 

Has anyone taken the pulley off, roughed up the shaft, bolt a washer on the end? I mean… that’s as small as you can get.

 

Sent him another email this morning for an update.

 

It's all good...this is the crap everyone is dealing with...this just creates a new emergence of patience and grace...all good in this hood...though I am anxious

 

He said they are on the lathe today and finishing up. He also is upgrading the shipping. I'm in no way peeved about this delay, btw. Just anxious to start installing!

 

I had to use a 5 ton 3-jaw puller. Always scary when you hear it pop loose! Lol

 

Ready for the new pulley! If you use the hex head bolt to protect the theads, use plenty of anti-seize on it also. The when removing I just wrapped the shaft with cloth and used locking pliers to keep the shaft still, then unscrew the bolt

 

You're the man! Thank you for documenting all of this.

 

I pulled the supercharger pulley off for the first time, nearly 5000 miles since installing it! Looks totally fine, quite a bit of oily residue around it but I suspect it's just from the anti seize between the pulley and hub interface getting thrown out. Wiped down everything looks pristine. Little bit of black marking on the front and rear where the belt extremities contact.

 

Looks great and totally normal wear! We don't see that "stuff" on our powder-coated pulleys...thank you for sharing the findings @snivilous ! I can't wait to get our pulleys in!