General Supercharger Thread

Did you go to Sema?

 

Hahaha that’s awesome!

 

Used the 2.0" pulley the whole time?

 

No sir, air show at Nellis AFB

Yes sir, I was too lazy/wanted to see how tolerable it'd be for a short trip like this. And the answer is.... Maybe? It makes so much boost so fast that as I said, the bypass valve was allowing 6psi when the engine wasn't actually putting out enough power to really do anything. I think downshifting so the engine can make power before piling on the boost might work, but I didn't mess around with that idea much. Kind of a weird thing where having a "safe" amount of boost limits you to only using very little throttle, which means the engine isn't actually making power since you're essentially idling... But it's like idling with boost, so the worst of both worlds which is something I wasn't expecting.

 

hold on a cotton-pickin' minute...that's a 51mm pulley?!...at ~sea level?

<hat tip> U Da Man

damn...I bet that made some serious TQ.

what RPM's for it to make 9psi? 4000?

what RPM's to reach the 5 volt MAF?


I smiled when I finally converted the inches to MM.....that is awesome.

 

Would it be beneficial to have it go into PE earlier with a lower throttle position then? I’ve been wondering what would be too much boost in CL?

 

This is a huge, American risk! Badass! I bet it was almost fun driving having to be careful! Haha you're a wild man Snivilous! This thoroughly excites me for what will be sooner then later!

 

Well I didn't let it go past 6psi, which was happening at like 25% throttle. If my charts are remotely correct it should've been making in the 12-13psi range. I was entirely focused on not making power

This is extremely long winded since there is a lot at play I was thinking about, so get your popcorn ready.

I don't know what "safe" boost is, in closed loop or in general. The first failure mode (usually it seems) is the rings seizing due to getting too hot and having a small gap from the factory. I try and have power enrichment kick in right around the time it starts making boost, boost = compression = more heat. So it seems like to be safe it doesn't hurt to start ramping up the fuel immediately to keep everything cool.

Then there is the question of how much boost is safe. I thought I saw somewhere that ~750hp started to become an issue for the rods, but as we've talked about in this thread before, is 13psi of boost at 2000rpm fine but at 5500rpm is bad? I don't know, I'm just going off of the "max HP boost" will be the limiter across the rpm range to be safe.

Now to where things get funky: PE seems somewhat finicky about it's engagement. I've had it kick in under no boost, and had it not kick in (like yesterday being an extreme example) at 6psi. At first glance I'd expect a bunch of stuff to be consistent: throttle angle, boost, and PE engaging. I think the boost bypass valve is messing everything up. PE is solely based on throttle angle (at least in HP Tuners), but the bypass valve seems to also be controlled by how much boost is available and not just how much the throttle plate is up. Bear with me for a moment:

If you make 1psi of boost, then we know at 0% throttle there is max vacuum and at 100% throttle there is 1psi of boost. So if that's a linear ramp up, let's just say the bypass valve is beginning to close (give "0psi boost") at like 90% throttle. Well if you change that to 10psi boost, that last 10% of the throttle doesn't seem to go from nothing to everything, instead the point of "0psi boost" seems to shift so that everything is consistent and a linear change: meaning 0% throttle is max vacuum, 50% is 0psi, and 100% is 10psi.

That SEEMS to be what's happening, and where that's an issue is you just went from having PE engage at 90% throttle when you entered boost, to entering boost at 50% throttle and PE doesn't engage at all until you're well deep into your 10psi and it just starts ramping up fuel.

I think that's what's happening to me and explains the "inconsistency" of PE. It's really a combination of PE not being airflow controlled (which I would think would always engage at the exact same boost level) and instead is an arbitrary throttle position, and yet the boost amount doesn't really care about throttle because it's setup to give a smooth transition of boost and not have all the boost over a small throttle range.

And to conclude my TED talk, this is only an "issue" for people like me where you go down in elevation a considerable amount (funny thing is where I grew up in Colorado we saw a >4000ft elevation change and in about 30 minutes, much worse than where I live now). So for those people, there are a few solutions: set the tune up for low elevation if you want to be safe down there, but that means you're in PE without being in boost when you're at higher altitudes. Second is swap pulleys so you have less boost, and maintain that throttle/boost curve that the tune is setup for. And third is the bypass valve theoretical controller/hard stop, to essentially disable boost at low elevation since your PE will still be trying to engage fueling too late. Or lastly, have a low altitude and high altitude tune so PE comes on correctly--too bad you can't do that with tow haul I don't think. Or, just be aware of the tuning limitations like I did. Las Vegas seemed to be especially bad, 6psi with no PE is really up there imo. In low land Utah which is less than 1000ft higher I've seen a couple psi before PE but I wasn't worried. Also PE engagement and disengagement are different, so you can always add a little more throttle, bump into PE, then relax the throttle and it'll stay in PE and you could lower the boost that way which I did notice yesterday.

 

You also need to look at the load on the motor under boost as well. Low load and 6 psi is not as big a deal as high load and 6 psi. Usually PE ramps in as a % of throttle position but the Toyota ecu doesn't seem consistent in application. My setup will make 4 psi under low load, light throttle situations that are less than 35%, which keeps it out of PE.

 

Popped a P0101 code

Coming back from the boat. (might be the last trip of the year...)
Cruise control 62mph
60 miles into the trip we get to the upside of the 610 ship channel bridge.

As soon as we hit the incline, you can feel the trans come out of lock & increase RPM’s

Bam - code p0101
Kicked me off cruise control.

I cleared the code & everything was fine again.

Got home checked for vacuum leaks – none visible. My previous issue was that tube just under the inlet snout – it’s still OK.

I’m guessing the MAF is dirty – our warehouse park has a rock yard at the entrance, and all that white dust gets ground up by the trains to a Yayo consistency & settles on EVERYTHING.

I was too tired to clean the damn MAF….maybe today when I get home.

No codes since.


Today’s trip in was interesting. The truck loves heavy fog. I’m sure there is some math on the octane boost of all that humidity getting to the engine.

Is cool dense foggy air the best food for a blown engine? I think so.

 

I’ve decided the occasional P0101 code especially when towing is a fact of supercharged life for some reason. At least for me. Lol I still don’t understand it.

Edit: I still have a sneaking suspicion it could be related to the MAF wiring harness. I may see what it would cost me to get a new one and see if it goes away more permanently, and check my old one for continuity on all pins.

 

I think that may be a Harrop specific, I've been towing a tons this summer and not a issue, may be the 2650 just moves that much more air that it trips the MAF voltage?

I think I'm going to get a catch can set up, what have worked for you guys?

 

I ended up with the Radium + the extra bracket. Needed to relocate to allow for the Stillen intake.

 

I've read of people getting that code on their Maggies even before the Harrops came out. I want to say that ViktorG explained it to me but said that it was a non-issue, so I promptly forgot what he said about it. I do remember that it was all about the MAF...I think.

 

Haven't had any P0101 on either mine or the old mans rig. Catch can options radium,JLT, or prospeed. I've got the prospeed but it's more of separator type unit that vents back into the valve cover.

 

Radium seems like the best choice: http://www.radiumauto.com/Tundra-Catch-Can-Kit-07-21-P933.aspx

 

Radium single off the PCV for me. Someone on here got the double off the head vents and said those have been completely dry since day one and is pointless.

 

This. PCV side only. Crankcase side runs dry from all the posts I've seen. Tundra has a built in system that handles this.

 

This is accurate. Radium double unit on the old mans and not even needed at all. Totally dry so do the single if going this route.

 

I'm likely going with Radium. Do you have a link to the extra bracket you needed?

 

I ended up ordering the PCV kit and afterwards getting this:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Single-Universal-Catch-Can-Mounting-Bracket-P697.aspx

Not sure if you could get the CCV kit and mod the hose lengths or other parts.

 

PCV kit with fixed bracket:

CCV kit with second bracket:

Looks like the CCV doesn't have that additional connector (below the bracket).

 

For what it's worth I was able to modify, ie just remove one of the legs, of the bracket that came with the kit. The kit had everything I needed.

 

Does anyone else keep a bottle full of all of the oil and gunk you’ve emptied out of your catch can? I have the JLT which works, but probably isn’t as top of the line as the Radium. I’m curious how much it catches compared to the more expensive options.

 

Why would you keep a bottle? "This is my bottle of ass fluid, I love it so it sits on the shelf here"

I've only had the catch can for 10k miles, and it's collected less than an ounce of fluid, which is like 3/8" on the little dip stick thing. Maybe less. It's so little I forget to check it.

 

Psssh, why wouldn’t you keep a bottle? It’s fun lol. I get to look at all of the junk that would have gotten all up in my supercharger heat exchanger if I hadn’t installed my cheapo catch can. It’s like a science experiment! Here’s mine over the course of maybe 7k miles or so. My little bottle of “ass fluid”.

 

The real question is, does the person with more ass fluid have a better filter or more blowby

 

We will never know, since SOMEONE hasn’t been collecting their ass fluid!

 

I think the can needs to shift to the diverside but it is possible there is another way to mod the mount.

 

Well if your intercooler reservoir sits next to the radiator and the rest of the engine bay looks like mine, then that mount is about perfect