2014-2021 Front/Rear Anytime Camera Mod - FRAC Harness

Just had to say 'thanks' @TundraTex for providing the great FRAC kit, and all your installation instructions, and myriad pointers!

I received my kit on Thursday or so (you're quick!), and I got it installed last night, very easy!

I have the 22 Tacoma TRD Sport, with the 'Entune 3'? head unit. Lots of unused switch blanks to pick from down next to the ciggy lighter. One of the switch holes is more recessed than the others, not sure why, but perfect for the VIM switch to make it more difficult to switch it by mistake.

I saved the front camera project for another day when I have more time, since pulling the head unit is so easy.

 

Lookin’ good! Add some pics when you complete the camera connections.

 

Finally got the extended stud in to finish this. I have a bit of a different mounting setup using the YotaLED's mount and some aluminum stock to get the camera out past the grill. Seems pretty sturdy, only bummer is the stud isn't centered on the back of the camera so it hangs over the spacer some. Measuring tape for reference, have maybe 3" of distance you can't see to the ground, also the high FOV makes it a bit hard to see the corners, but will just have to start using it and get a feel. Good thing is the camera connection is close so it should be easily replaceable if anything happens or I want a different one.

 

@TundraTex et al,
The rear cam and switch work great, so I'm proceeding with the front camera install...
I'm using the Natika camera, which comes with a 25ft RCA-ended extension cable, with a red 'tail' sticking out of each RCA end.
The install manual shows to snip the red tail nearest the camera on this cable, and to connect the tail on the other end of the cable to the FRAC power lead.
I'm not sure I understand the function of that power lead going into the camera cable. I tested it and it seems to simply go to the center pin of the jack. Does it power the camera? Does the 'center' conductor transmit the video signal as well as powering the camera?
My main question is, can I shorten this 25ft cable, and attach a new RCA jack to the end, simply adding a tail to the center pin/conductor? Or is there something else involved with the tail inside that connector?
TIA for any guidance!

 

If you’re modifying the base setup I would use an rca cable pre built to the correct length and separate power and ground wire for the camera itself (I like red and black). The power through the RCA is a shortcut and a lame one at that. An extra pair of 20 gauge isn’t much harder to add and stuffing it all in flex loom off the vehicle is straightforward.

Adding a quick disconnect at the tailgate is the part I still have to do. But I don’t think I plan to ever remove the tailgate either.

 

Yes, that sounds easier than putting a new end on... Only thing is I already ran the video cable, and I've clipped the tail off the camera end.

So the power supply simply uses the video conductor? Interesting. What negatives do you know of, re: using the video conductor for the power?

I guess I'll be doing a bit of soldering now.

Thanks for the suggestion though, it did sound simpler for a minute... B-/

 

Also, any reference to the 'tail', using a Google search, tend to call it the 'trigger wire' rather than a power supply.

It does provide the camera with a required power supply???

 

Not super sure on the negatives / downsides / risks. I do not know enough about the rca connector type. I was a little surprised you found the power injection rides on the center pin as I expected it would float ground instead?

my understanding is that you can use that to inject 12v (or 6v) power at the source head unit where you plug the yellow rca into the video input. Then at the camera side you source a local chassis ground and you have signal out along with power and ground for the camera. Which allows one long cable to do it all.

The downsides as I see them are that these cables are typically longer than desired and typically thinner and of lower quality than I’d prefer. But if it works it works, it’s not high quality audio.

I prefer separate power and ground all in one flex loom since the labor of wrapping it all up vastly exceeds any parts costs. And it’s nice to use 18 gauge for power just because that gives you more to work with and less voltage drop. But for something like a rear camera, 20 or 22 is totally fine.

I tend to avoid cutting up rca cables because the strands are so fine and therefore hard to deal with. But to make a proper intercept to allow tailgate removal, you likely have to cut. Or use OEM harnesses.

 

yeah, I'm a little hesitant to cut the video cable, for those reasons. I've opened them in the past only to find that the outside ('ground') conductor under the insulation is only aluminum foil shielding... argh.
I'll find out though, and if needed I'll have to see about replacing the whole thing... hope not!

Thanks again for your input on this.

 

Well, to finish this off...

I was completely off when I said I tested continuity between the tail and the RCA jack. I must've dreamed it. I have no idea why I thought I tested it! (Probably had something to do with the evening glass of wine... - not smart!) There's no connection between the tail and the RCA jack...

After cutting the cable end off, I see that the 'tail' runs the length of the video cable, as a separate conductor. Shortening the cable was no problem as I happened to have a good crimp connector to replace it with, and a good crimping tool.

So the camera can be powered from the head unit, as the FRAC instructions illustrate. Natika also included a separate power cable in case one prefers to connect to a 12v source that's closer to the camera.

Thus I will be running a separate power wire to the camera from the FRAC (since I obliviously snipped the tail off the cable!)

And thanks for the suggestion to use wire-loom @daveeasa. Tidy will be nicer.

 

Saw this posting late. As you discovered, the red "tail" is simply a continuous wire running inside the cable sheathing from one end to the other. It's a convenient way to get power to the camera from a remote source such as the FRAC Circuit. The Natika cables provide a lot of flexibility for supplying power. Just remember that all the red "tails" are interconnected. You could simply solder an extension to the red wire on the snipped end to avoid the need to run an additional power wire. Also, using the supplied power wire from the FRAC harness connects you to accessory voltage so the camera will not be connected directly to the battery and put a drain on it. Lots of ways to get it done. Sounds like you have it figured out.

 

Thanks Lou.
I shortened the video cable, leaving the red power tail no longer accessible, so I used the Natika alternative power supply wire-pair, and plugged into the fuse box under the hood (using an Add-A-Circuit fuse adapter).
It seemed that every fuse under there, ie: in the fuse box under the hood, was hot even with the key off, but the camera only pulls 50ma, so I don't think I need to be concerned about draw-down.
Thanks for putting the harness kit together for us. It's a great mod!

 

@TundraTex, Lou, I have another question for you.

Is it possible that the FRAC harness is interfering with the head unit's "daylight sensor", which controls the headlights turning on automatically when it starts to get dark out?

This Tacoma is new to me so I'm not sure if it ever reliably worked the way I expect it should, and changing the setting for sensitivity doesn't seem to help at all.

The automatic lights seemed to be working last week, ie: during daylight, only the 'driving lights' would be on, and the dash lights and head unit display would be bright, that is, in 'daylight mode'. When dusk came, the headlights came on and the dash lights dimmed. But I only noticed this function a few times.

Now when I turn the headlights on 'Auto', they're always just 'On', no matter how bright a day it is. I'm not sure when this stopped working, but in the interim, I'd pulled the head unit out once more, to connect the front camera and the front camera switch.

Is there something in the harness that might interfere with that daylight sensor?

Thanks again!

 

I've never heard of anyone having this issue and there's nothing electrically interfaced to the headlights. That said, my thoughts on things to look into would be as follows in my most likely to least likely order:

• Daylight sensor being blocked. Not sure where this sensor is located in your truck, but its usually somewhere on the passenger side dash near the windshield. I have heard of windshield inspection stickers blocking light to the sensor and causing problems. Check to make sure nothing is blocking your sensor.
• Camera Power Tap - When you connected your camera power, did you tap into a fuse that may affect the headlight circuit?
• VIM Enable not switched on. Are you utilizing your VIM switch properly? if VIM is off continuously, it can affect turn-by-turn prompts and navigation accuracy - but those are Head Unit functions. Not sure why Toyota would use the HeadUnit VIM input to affect DRL or Auto
• OEM-Style FRAC Camera switch illumination. Are you using the illumination features on the camera switch? If so, how did you wire it. if you tied into the illumination circuit improperly, perhaps that could affect other items tied to the illumination circuit.
• Front Camera Position. I'm pretty sure the auto-high beam sensors are tied into the TSS "Camera" on the grill. Did you have to disconnect anything from the TSS when you did your camera installation? If so did everything get re-connected properly (i.e. connectors fully connected) when re-installing the grill. Is it possible your camera is potentially blocking or shadowing the TSS sensors? I doubt this would affect the auto on function and there are usually lots of warning bells and whistles if the TSS is not properly connected.

Let me know how it goes.

 

Has anybody used this switch and if so how does it's 6 wires hook up to the frac harness??

 

@rocsteady,
Look on the help page, here (scroll down a bit for the switch link):
https://www.fracharness.com/pages/installation-help

 

@TundraTex! You nailed it, on the first try.
(Jeesh - I'm a bit embarrassed!)

Perhaps the gas bill was getting in the way???!?
Arghh!

Thank you so much for your sage advice! You build the excellent FRAC, then you troubleshoot for me.

Yes, off to the far right of the dash, embedded in the speaker grill, of course. I assumed it was using the 'Lane Departure camera' up near the rear view mirror.

Thanks again.

 

What @HarrC said.

 

Lol. Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while!

 

Thank you. Been a while since i was looking at this and wound up with the time to get after it today and this stumped me.

 

Yeah, shows where my head is at, never occurred to me to look at the help page for help. I was surprised at how easy the dash and center stack pieces were to remove and AMAZED that I was able to fish the wire through that grommet on the passenger side on the first try. If it hadn't have rained on me for a few minutes, I could have called the whole day a huge win. While it was apart I also put in a light bar I've been toting around for years.

Without the switch being attached, when i put it in reverse to close up for the night, I got the front camera view which was really odd as I was backing up. I caught myself thinking I was backing up the old fashioned way, with mirrors rather than having the backup camera assist.

 

While I'm searching this thread and FAQs, all installed and here's what I get: If camera switch is in "neutral" or "front" position, when I put into reverse, I get the front view. I can then push the switch to "rear" and get rear view so I can back up. But only time I get front view is when I put the transmission into reverse?

 

Pay attention to what orientation the radio is in the installation images.
I had that issue when I installed mine. When you pull the radio and lay it on the dash it is inverted from the install guide images.

If you look at the pictures, you'll note the the difference in orientation.

Hope this helps.

 

That's exactly what I did. What a dope. Lou called me back exactly as I was seeing this post. Hope I didn't destroy anything

 

No, Any time you are in reverse, the rear camera is shown. Any other time (NOT in Reverse, the switch determines what is shown.

 

You didn't. I fought this for days, with it plugged into the wrong side. No problems created.

 

Fortunately plugging the FRAC connector into the wrong side will not damage anything.

Thanks to all the FRAC users who provide such great support and assistance to new FRACees often before I even see a post or question. We have great group of folks here.

 

You're no dope, you are not the first to do this. Like you, I was worried that I fried something when I did the same thing. Thankfully, Lou set me straight and I got everything up and running in short order.

My only suggestion would be to @TundraTex to flip the images on the instructions. The head unit naturally sits on the dash upside down. It would make for clearer documentation to show the connector layout in the orientation that you are most likely to look at it.

That said, Lou has developed an extremely nice product that is easy to integrate with our trucks with the absolute minimum of permanent modifications.

 

Well, this here FRAC harness do flingy works pretty dang good when it's installed properly.

Directions even tried to warn me as it clearly said to pull the correct connectors. Thanks to all. Really a great mod.

 

this has been on the list from the get go, but Dirty Sevens had my heart first! Just ordered! Can't wait to scare my girlfriend pulling into parking spots. She freaks out at two feet.. can only imagine her face once I install this without her knowledge!