General Supercharger Thread

I remain intrigued by the CVT solution tho.

 

If it's any excuse, the stuff I work on is in a complete vacuum so any time I've looked at pressure it's always positive

 

Basically that’s my issue. I could use a simpler “restrictor plate” with a varying size hole in it for testing purposes for the time being. A Venturi restrictor tube would obviously flow a lot nicer with less turbulence for long term.

The pressure before and after the Venturi would be different. That’s essentially the point of the Venturi restrictor, it causes a restriction resulting in a pressure drop across it.

You’re not wrong. Now I have to stop chatting it up in this thread, I have to clean my whole house with the vacuum…errr… I mean pressure differential cleaner.

 

Maybe we should just call it suction and be done with it, I wonder if it'll catch on.

 

That sounds cool. What kind of stuff?

 

Man, that would be awesome!

edit: dangit....were not the first ones to think of this
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/inside-look-variable-speed-supercharging-technology/
does seem best suited for a centrifugal

 

Almost there!

 

I miss getting packages lol I'm having withdrawals lol

 

Spacecraft, so usually I specify pressure as like 10^-6 torr, which is like 1/1000th micron and that's a pressure we specify for components since they want to know what level of vacuum we're operating in. Might contribute to the difference in semantics

 

That’s cool! Haven’t you learned anything from this discussion? Theres no such thing as a vacuum, that’s .00000193PSIA dude!

actually I did that wrong! It’s .000000002PSIA lol

 

Like I said, that's beyond my field of expertise I just make sure the space bridges don't collapse

 

Looking for a part

Watched a vid and it said that if you don't have the tow package on the Tundra, then the Oil Cooler Tube Manifold isn't needed from the fit kit. Does anyone have this part left over they want to sell? Or know the part number for it? Got the Thermostat Bypass Manifold already

 

I did some welding on my stock tubes and then just ran two rubber lines from the top to the bottom. Mine didn't come with those long ass oil lines either.

 

I think I used heater hose...lol.

 

I got a reply from smoothboost today. I have to send them some pictures of how the bypass bolts up to the Harrop blower. He claimed they may already have something for it.

 

I assume it's still vacuum operated and their setup just acts like an adjustable hard stop?

 

I have to double check the thermostat bypass manifold they sent because I'm pretty sure it was a rubber hose, but looking at older fit kits online they're both originally metal.

I'm probably just gonna assume my truck will be out of order for a solid week cause I'm bound to be missing something when I go to put everything together

 

Go through the manual and make sure you have the parts pertaining to each step, thats what I did.

 

The lines that run coolant down to heat exchanger next to the oil filter from the factor are metal, as are the ones in the fit kit. You'll need to remove the front driver wheel to access the the A/C compressor bolt(s) to pull it away from the block to remove the stock lines, and if you had the fit kit lines, install them then. As I didn't have the fit kit lines, I just ran heater hoses from the heat exchanger back up to the front/top of the engine. Remember to try to make note of which hose connects where to retain designed directional flow of the coolant. I zip tied the hoses to be sure that they wouldn't contact the belt checking them just about every time I open the hood and replace the ties when my paranoia gets the best of me as we all know they become brittle with time in that environment. I should probably upgrade to something more durable, but here we are, years later.

 

I’m honestly not sure how it works. I think it’s totally electric and probably ties into the throttle body to determine when to close the bypass valve, and is very much a full modulating analog signal. It’s intention is more to smooth out the application of boost I believe.

 

Reading through instructions. Does ANYONE use a Filter Minder??

https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/eng...indicators/filter-minder-indicators-switches/

 

Nope...I don't have one on my "regular" TRD Airbox lid...

 

I know it's not necessary, just an oddity I didn't expect to see in the instructions. Never heard of anyone running one before

 

Just another thing to make sure you feel better when spending all that money on the airbox! Hahaha

 

mine has one, and is as far as I can tell, a dealer installed trd sc.

 

Is it actually useful in determining when the filter is dirty enough to be changed or cleaned?

 

with the K&N it never moved a millimeter even after it was quite dirty.
i put a WiX filter in a few months ago and I would assume it will move as it it gets dirty?
Dont think I would spend $$ on one.

 

My airbox has the Filter Minder and they're standard on our medium duty commercial vehicles where I work. They seem pretty superfluous. I've never seen one that indicated more than a few mm of restriction on the indicator and can't imagine an air filter so dirty that it would indicate even half near maximum restriction on the Minder, it would need to be phenomenally restrictive and you'd probably recognize an incredible reduction in performance from an engine. For a consumer vehicle, they're just a visual farkle (eye candy). They probably have a useful application in a very dirty, dusty environment, like having shovels of dirt or a hibernating bear cub packed into your airbox.

 

Alternative to vented hood? Don't like that you have to cut the fender:
https://www.airdesignusa.com/2014-2015-2016-2017-2018-2019-2020-2021-tundra-fender-vent-set.html

Skeptical but looks like there is a passage from the engine bay to the fender in that area. You can see it in this thumbnail:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhvWgIbiMIY