What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@w666 Were you able to unscrew the hose clamp at the tank or did you cut it somehow? The screws on mine are completely deteriorated.

 

Yeah, same. Part of me feels bad about it too. The reality is, timewise, it probably takes me longer to drive to the auto parts store to recycle the old than to change it. I tell myself I'd do it more often if I had a lift, but I don't even know that's actually true

I give mine a good wipe-down with an oily/greasy rage at every change. Frame is still looking new now, wish I took pics after wipe-down, all I have is from before.

 

Sorry, that's sadly not gonna be for a bit. Electric fans and rear sway are first in line, probably a bigger meth nozzle too while I'm at it. If I get to them before you do I'll make a build thread.

 

My friend has a lift, that makes most maintenance or repairs, almost fun. I did a rear main seal on a Chevy 350 motor on his lift. Piece of cake, but if i were doing it lying on my back, not so much.
I let the selling dealer do two changes on my Tundra new, they offered complimentary maintenance for new purchases. Both times they grossly overfilled the engine oil. By more than a quart. That's when I figured they don't put their top guys on oil changes. I've always done my own since then. If you have a good mechanic then it's a good deal if you don't want to do it, but they seem to be a rare species anymore. I might let Toyota do my next timing belt, being hunched over the truck for 2 days hurts just to think about it.

 

Those are sweet! Wouldn't mind a set.

 

@Archive
Heeew! What a day! Didn’t go as easy as planned but wasn’t that bad. No more zonie squat, now I’ve got the zonie stank bug action!
First spin around the block felt great, kinda worried it was going to feel like a semi but it wasn’t the case!
I went from 21.5” to 25.5” hub center to fender!!!!! Last thing I need to do is chop the excess Ubolt threads.
@Cruzer those 10t stands are the shit!!!

 

Drove it like I Stole it..

Small get away planned before IAN the a$$hole showed up.... business & pleasure

Proudly got 15.5 mpg running up the Florida west coast

Con just looked at me after I did the math and shook her head and reminded me her Corolla got us 43-50 mpg's

 

I was able to unscrew the hose clamp. It's just an ordinary hose clamp, however, so cut it if you need to and replace with another. The smaller vent line uses a fuel line connector at the tank side, so you'll need a special tool...

Patonu 7Pcs AC Fuel Line Removal Tool, Includes 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8", Universal Automotive Transmission Oil Cooler Tube Quick Disconnect Tool Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Patonu-Line-...jQuNTMifQ==&sprefix=fuel+line,aps,102&sr=8-38

There are a hundred variations on this theme, so you can just grab what you need at your local parts store.

 

How are they working out? I just bought a set. I am set to install them this week, so I just wanted to see if you have any issues with them.

 

@NickB_01TRD had good luck with his, mine leak on both sides. Could be we didn't get the seals right, but I doubt it.

 

Mine are good still. Passenger side leaked initially due to bad seal install. Reinstalled new seal to the right depth and no issues since.

@Cajunman007 if you're doing axles it might not be a bad time to upgrade to the ECGS axle bushing on the driver side and replacing the seal as well. I'd say leave the passenger side seal alone as long as it isn't leaking. It sucks.

 

you ever manage to get some fuel trim numbers?

 

Not yet, do you have something on the drawing board for a tune?

 

Today. Spent 220 bucks for the maps

 

Got the truck out for the first time since regearing and going to 33s. Feels like a whole new truck, so much slow crawl control while keeping the RPMs up enough to keep from stalling in 4HI. 4LO really crawls now! Has much more power on and off the highway now too. Really glad i went with 4:88 ratio. Heres some camping photos from the last weekend in Joshua Tree BLM area.

 

How did your swing out work?

 

Dude, it held up just fine through everything. I wasnt bouncing around that much, but i checked it from time to time and it was solid and latched in place. I didnt have the fuel rotopak filled up though, only the water one.

And the table definitely worked for that salmon i cooked up!

 

I have some good news!

As it turns out, I was right about my calipers. I wish I had just removed the GX calipers long ago. My brake pedal feels great and I'm no longer having to double pump them each time I stop. Something must have gone wrong at the machine shop when I had these modified. My gut says they didn't take enough material off. That would explain why they rattled against the spindle and why I had to double pump to get the pistons to actually engage the pads.

Final thoughts on the 14WA calipers. If you have a machine shop you trust and you can get them modified correctly, you should see increased braking performance with the bigger calipers. It may come at the expense of pedal feel and travel. Reports are mixed on this. I do not believe you necessarily need to do the T100 booster/MC swap just because you move up to bigger calipers. Plenty of people have had success without swapping those parts.

Looking back, I can't believe all the things I tried to make these work. It wasn't air in the lines/ABS. Reverse brake bleeding didn't help. Replacing my master didn't help. It wasn't my booster. Rebuilding my rear brakes and adjusting them didn't help. Messing with the LSPV did nothing. The answer was so obvious. I lost around $800-1000 on this project.

Hopefully my misadventures help someone else.

 

Congrats on your new brakes. Sucks about your loss, though. I can think of about a dozen other things I'm sure you'd rather've dropped that dough on.

Remind me again, did you roll back to the WLs, so still getting an upgrade, or right back to stock again?

 

I went to 13WL so still an improvement from the 13WE's that came with the truck. This is honestly the best they have ever felt. These pads don't have the same bite that the bigger ones had which is why I believe the GX upgrade could be worth it if done correctly.

I also bought the cheapest pads Rock Auto sold. I wanted to make sure this actually helped before investing in expensive pads. Now that I know it did, I may buy some better pads if anyone has suggestions. I've heard OEM pads are hard to beat.

 

Ok, so you're basically on my calipers. Honestly, I'm happy with my stock 13WL. I've heard a couple of others complain about them sucking, but I guess they've never driven any of my previous 2-3 dozen vehicles

You may as well burn through the ones you got, unless they're throwing lots of shit everywhere or you're worried about them dicking up something else. I'm an OEM guy. At least I know what to expect, because that's what was already on the vehicle. With brakes, I get pissed when they create excess dust and whatnot.

 

Before:


After with 06 taillights:

 

i like my powerstop z23 pads. But, like ive said before, im pretty gentle with the brake pedal. The dust is more of a tan color than black.

I'm trying to figure out what sort of neat shenanigans could be done with those WA calipers. No rotors?... just cracked open my first beer, if i come up with something decent i'll let you know. Only thing that stands out would be rear disc conversion, but i dont have/want 17's.

 

Replaced the trailer wiring today. Hopkins brand fit just fine only thing I forgot is I tapped the reverse circuit there for my backup cam. My meter is MIA at the moment so that will have to wait.

 

Check his for sale post. He's willing to give up the rotors too, unless I read wrong. https://www.tundras.com/threads/free-14wa-brake-calipers.114907/#post-2956869

Nice! What'd you need to do to adapt the wiring? The housings are a direct-install, right, just the wiring has to be addressed?

(great 1st post, welcome to the forum!)

 

you need the wiring harnesses from the later year as well to do it right!

 

After every trip in the dust I get home with some squeaking, which is pretty common with aftermarket suspension. I've been greasing and chasing squeaks since the Dude Ranch trip. I got to the point of just ruling one thing out at a time because it's hard to pinpoint the noise source. I already did all of my bushings. Decided to full droop the leaf packs and grease the leaf ends at the pads. Noise gone.

 

i'm not ready to blow up his post with false hope, yet.

4 beer in, and maybe the one of the brakes could be a holding brake for a gantry hoist. And the other could be a brake for my mower deck for the tractor. Actuated by motorcycle MC's?

lets see what the next beer comes up with.

 

Who's writing the maps? Are these going onto a stock ECM?

 

Do you sleep back there?