What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Is the rest of that mount basically the same as original? What's this poly talk about?

 

Yup an OE mount with polyurethane filling. All new OE hardware as well.

 

Ahh..I thought someone had done that. It was you. Have a source or did you fill that?

 

Yea that was me. I filled it myself. I was trying to see if Solid Off Road would send me measurements on 3rd gen Taco since it looks very close in size (the actual mount to trans) but I figured I give this a go 1st.

 

Having just done this, disconnect both hoses at the tank.

 

I didn’t know that was possible, I’ll take a look. Thanks!

 

Holy hell, I actually did something today!

Oil change & spark plugs finished.

Finally got about 200-300 miles in after adding Seafoam "high mile" into the crankcase. Switched up oil this time, Mobil 1 Extended Performance "High Mile" full syn, hoping it'll help with more crankcase cleanup (de-varnish). The passenger head is definitely less caramelized now than when I did the VC gaskets. Happy about that.

Swapped out plugs. I assume these are the original plugs. They appear to have at least a good 30k-40k miles on them to me.

Dammit if the driver's side plugs don't take 2x as long due to brake and fuel lines. Finally had an excuse to use that 18" extension I bought a couple years ago, but I could only use it on the passenger side! Cylinder 8's plug was the worst.

Truck definitely idles smoother. When I had to jump on it during 25min test drive after the work, it had no qualms with zipping up to 5k rpm. I don't think it's placebo, but there's not any marked difference. I was really hoping to find someone had the wrong plugs in it or something, and I'd be seeing a bigger response.

Anyway, pics just because I was in there and why the hell not?

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did you do the t100 MC also? Curious how the bigger piston feels with stock brakes.

 

No that was the one thing I never tried. I replaced the master cylinder but stuck with a Tundra MC.

 

I think it probably helps with vibration too to have it secured...which is why I believe I had a leaky hardline at the caliper after doing larger spindles...damn bracket didn't line up to new spindle mount points because they are much thicker. Which is also why I wanted to find a way to ditch the hard line all together.

 

I believe you just have to loosen one. the other mounts the bracket to the stud coming from the truck but also acts as the other side of the clamp. One is a nut and one is a bolt to loosen if that makes sense.

 

Yeah, I think the main thing you're going to want to do if you cut out the hard line and go to a one piece stainless line to the caliper, is run guides along the spindle so stainless line can't get caught up in the suspension.

 

I hate working with these hard lines. Passenger side went fine but the driver side doesn't want to thread into the caliper evenly. I'm afraid the threads are gonna strip. I'll be attempting again in the morning.

 

Dude I got a new reman caliper from Toyota and had to re-tap the caliper because it felt so rough kinda like it was gonna cross thread.

 

You mean "guides" like those magical plastic straps called zip ties, right?

 

Edit: I was wrong...I think. Mine, the bolts came from top but I believe also the 5 screws in cap area were enough to let it float. Weird like the cap pulls it all together once ya get the fill up flush with back of the area ya see when you open the lid

 

1st gen still best

need to get yourself a set of TRD brakes. oh my. theyre amazing.

 

While those are tempting they're unobtainium right? Also, only 4 piston, I've got my eyes on these- https://sosperformance.com/products...6-wheels-e7bad3f9-8c27-4e4a-8405-291a736f1328. More pistons=more better

 

6 is fine too. but the TRD BBK added much larger rotors. thats the big selling point. 32mm thick. and directional cooling + all that jazz.. and two piece.

 

Ah, I'd have to get different wheels to clear those. Im on 16s

 

Two piece and a biscuit

 

Please buy them for science I'm on 16's too and have been eying them for awhile.

Realistically if I upgrade my brakes anymore I'm going to retrofit a hydroboost master cylinder.

 

Looks like it's time to bleed. My favorite.





Also used this opportunity to Fluid Film all my holes.

 

Did you get your frame replaced? It looks almost new.

 

Nope. Just a southern trucks between NC and TN. The only place it had some rust is where the dreaded frame stiffeners are. I also try to pressure wash it a few times a year. I've found that by treating it with Fluid Film, dirt seems to wash off easier. The only thing that sticks is sand.

 

The height of the side body panels on all the new trucks is so clownish to me. I think the bedsides on that '22 are probably shoulder level with me and my height starts with the number "6". Ludicrous.

 

Oil and filter, 5700 miles on this change interval, 2 years and 2 months. I didn't realize it was that many miles and 26 months since I did it last. Zero oil consumption since done last. I used, and did again, Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic and they claim 10,000 mile change intervals, so I guess I'm okay. I don't do any short runs with it, just longer trips when I need the truck. I log most of my miles on the motorcycles, 50 MPG beats the piss out of 16 MPG and lots more fun on two wheels. Just over 6.5 quarts to fill to the top dimple on the dip stick. I think you're up to date now. Oh yeah, a Toyota filter and a new Toyota sealing washer on the drain plug as always. Cheers.

 

I also use M1 full syn. I've always heard to change your oil at least once every 12-16 mos regardless whether you hit your mileage numbers, regardless of what oil type you use. (not sure I buy it)

The reasoning I was given for this is "If you can't hit the mileage within 12 months, it means you're doing lots of short-trips with heat-up/cool-down cycles, which degrades oil much faster than lots of miles at temp", but if you're not running short trips, I'm not sure I'd worry bout it either. I'm not so fortunate in my case and probably should switch back to dino on the next cycle; I just happened to have 2.5Qt of full syn leftover from previous changes, so stuck with full syn for one more cycle with a new jug.

I'm sure someone has done some studies on this heat/cool cycles and its effect on full synthetics, I'd be curious to read them.

 

I grew up with the same understanding about time intervals as well, and like you think as long as the oil gets good and hot to evaporate any moisture I'm good to go. I don't mind doing the oil changes on the Tundra, but it is a bit of work (lying on my back with the truck flat on the ground, I just shimmy underneath) so I like to put it off as long as I can between changes. It looked beautiful on the bottom side with no rust anywhere and still very free of grunge, after 21 years now.