What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Turtle party!

 

Oh no, I didn't miss the joke. I just knew what @Mr.bee was talking about.

 

Doing hammer hangers?

 

Yerp! And HD leafs, leaves?

 

Did anybody put this on his truck?

 

@Mr.beer said something?

 

That’s @Mr.Bock

 

Installed the 4 new Denso coils I bought couple days ago to replace the 22 year old ones I had. Misfires fixed!

 

F this rear spring spacer. I don't have jack stands I trust that go high enough enough with my lift. I'm doing this at the shop on a lift. I do like how drive side looks with the jack tilting it to one side.

 

I never had to use a compressor to close the springs to put a spacer in.
Sway bar and track bar loose? I ended up using the scissor jack to open it enough to slide the driver spacer in.


You can also jack the opposite front corner to open up that rear more

 

Yea these OMEs are 2.5 inch taller than stock. I was able to get them in last year and OE spring came out without compressor. But new springs need compressing. But that was outside the Truck. Different when they're already on.

 

Yes.

 

Decided to take my bedliner off and try the Impact on those bed bolts.

Good luck! They all came out 1/2 way so I know I can get them all out when needed. Probably the only good thing about the Toyota rust treatment was me giving them anti-seize to put on the replaced bed bolts.

Downside is I know the last two near the front fought the impact the whole way, so I know those have to be replaced.

 

My next question is what’s the best way to get the neck off so I can lift the bed 3-4” to get at the rear shock nuts?

Should I take a hack saw to the nuts that have all but disintegrated to get the top of the bracket off circling the hose?

 

Yours may be different, but on mine the 4 bolts on the gas cap side took care of it. I didn't have to mess with that part.

 

Goodbye GX calipers.

 

Anyone remember the brake caliper to spindle torque spec? If not, I'll go look it up later.

 

Huh, interesting. Yeah it’s a clamp that secures it to the underside of the bed. I’m thinking of taking a hack saw blade and just cutting the nut metal by hand like a file and use a hammer to pound the bolts up and free.

 

90 ft lbs on 05/6 DC

 

So the only way I could get the hard line to line up with the caliper was to remove the fork holding the hard line in place to the spindle. I hate that fork.





Of course now it doesn't want to line up there. wonder how critical it is. I'm guessing it's pretty important that the line stays secure.

:Cracks knuckles: Mangle time

 

Can't remember, were you using GX rotors as well?

 

Just bend the hard line by hand where it'll fit in the caliper again. Obviously not in a way that pinches the line. And yes, when you're all done that hard line definitely needs to be secured to the spindle. If not, you can rip the brake line out of the caliper like @Casper421 did and you'll really have Fred Flintstone brakes.

 

I have the line screwed into the caliper. Now I'm fighting hard line where it meets the SS lines it appears to be rusted together. Rather that unscrew where it connects to the stainless steel line it's just turning. I'll get it eventually I'm sure.

Edit- got it!

 

Yes. I think it would be impossible to run smaller rotors but could be wrong.

 

So I realized I didn't buy the shims this time but it looks like the new pads have them already attached to the back of the pad unlike the last set. Any concerns here?

Old GX pads on the bottom.

 

I've used pads with no shims before. No issues on braking really. I could see potential noise or slight vibrations without shims.

 

Finally got this new custom poly/OE mount on. Stupid Toyota dealer tech stripped the holding mount piece many years ago. Never trust that dealer again. Anyone happen to know the Torque spec for the long bolt through the mount?

 

German spec gudentite

 

Lol