Ask the Toyota mechanic!

hey sorry for the long wait before responding, I got caught up with an engine swap on the family car.

so I checked all of the cables and wires to see if anything was nicked or damaged and nothing was loose or damaged or cut. I made a post of my own hopefully I can get some traction there

 

I’m not sure where to ask this.
When I start my 2020 Tundra and I decide to turn on the AC there is a big clunk. Doesn’t always happen. Usually when the truck has sat a couple days.
Should I be concerned?

 

How hard is it to replace an alternator on 2014 4.6L? Bearings are shot and it's making a loud noise.

 

My 2019 does this as well. Has for 3 years, and no ill affect so far. Not sure about really long term though, as I'll be downsizing in the near future. If you search AC Thunk or Thud you might find other threads on it. I vaguely remember seeing some, but I don't think anything was actually figured out on it.

 

Having an issue with what I believe to be the VVT actuator but I’m not a mechanic.
I have a video of my issue but I’m not able to upload it.
Anyone know how to load a video?

 

Edited because of Godzilla's post. Thanks btw for that feedback!

Question for anyone including @LOTSOFTOYS and @Ruggybuggy

Is the instrument cluster wired up to the canbus system and gets it's intel updates from the canbus? If so, is it possible to flash the ecu or instrument cluster to turn off the auto stop off indicator, or maybe otherwise gain access to to it? I'm looking to maybe turn off the auto stop function without having to look at the constantly lit amber indicator

Thanks!

 

To ask a specific person a question, or reply to them you should use the @ symbol before their user name to tag them, or use the quote button in the bottom of their post that you want to respond to. Otherwise they don't know you replied/asked.

 

You have to post the video to something like youtube, then copy the link/address bar from there and paste it into your post.

 

Also, @LOTSOFTOYS has not been on in a long long time.




@Ruggybuggy was kind enough to step in and answer a lot of questions for us. I believe he retired before the 3rd gens, but may still have applicable knowledge.

 

Electrical question. It's my mom's 08 Camry passenger window and power mirror are dead, theoretically... When I moved closer to help her out no power windows worked, I swapped a couple fuses and 3 windows work but passenger front does not work. If I press the master switch it will jerk a little, so I can pretty much deduct the regulator, but not completely. I've tried closing and opening the door to see if the window would move, in case, a wire was broken, but no joy either. I'm scratching my head at this point, but door lock works and unlock/lock button work. Accessory lights work as well.. Any other place I should look??
I've tried the Camry forum, but that place is deserted and most threads have 6 replies and no solution or follow up...

 

Does anyone know the size and thread pattern for the bolts that attach the bed rail system?

 

Might be useful info in here. I just skimmed, so I might be wrong. https://www.tundras.com/threads/stripped-screw-in-tundra-bed-rails.108389/

 

Does anyone know where the IJ4 joining wire harness is located? I can find IJ1, 2, and 3. But not 4.

 

Hi folks,
Love my Tundra and Toyotas in general. Currently attempting to replace Body Control Module (part number 896700C011).
Have removed everything on the dash and can’t find this part on my truck. Seems crazy. It should where I identified on the picture.

Symptoms are intermittent door lock issues (EXCEPT drivers side door which always works) very quick battery drain. Power is good to master swish on drivers side door.

11 Tundra 5.7L Platinum RWD

 

LOL!! Wifey is continuing to blast me because I can't unlock her door unless I do it from the inside

 

Was advised to post here. Have a 2002 and had dead battery charged it up and now radio doesn't work. Yes fuses are good, all A/C control plugs are connected and there is no external fuse on the back of the radio. Hard to believe that it's just a coincidence that the radio went bad at the same time the battery went dead seeing that others have said the same thing while doing a internet search. Only got 51,000 miles on it so it's not like the radio has hours on it. So with that said has anybody found or heard of anything or suggestions to solve this issue?

 

Yes Toyota has been using CAN bus to drive instrument cluster gauge needles and warning indicators since the mid 2000s.

Yes you can communicate and change programming in any ECU over CAN but most are protected with a security access code. Almost nobody has these codes and the only way to get them is if Toyota puts out an official update for a specific ecu. The update file has to get security access so it can be reverse engineered. They have never produced an instrument cluster update for any Tundra however.

Rumors are the security algorithm on the 2022 Toyotas is much much more complex. The reason why is Toyota doesn’t want you or other manufacturers in there to see how they program this stuff. Even the older codes are difficult. After 6 months I finally got the one for the older clusters solved.

I can tell you if your not an expert in embedded systems it’s almost impossible to get the data and change anything. We are at the mercy of Toyota issuing official updates really. Due to government and EPA crackdowns on emissions they will never release an auto start on/off update.

The 2022 has a full start stop control ecu, this is probably what needs to be programmed and what is responsible for turning the light on the cluster on/off.

The simple and really only solution for automation is a relay that “hits the button for you” when you start the truck. As far as the indicator on the cluster, you could unsolder the led light or try to find a way to block the signal coming into the cluster to make sure the light never comes on.

Most likely, never will we see a quick “flash” program via the DLC port to disable auto start/stop. If we ever do it’s probably years away.

 

Sorry to bother you with something so trivial. I have a 2019 TRD Pro. My moonroof got stuck half open the other day and after sitting overnight I got it to open fully and then close and seal correctly. I just want to remove the fuse since I never use the moonroof so it stays closed. I checked the fuse box under the hood and in the cab by the parking brake with no luck. Am I missing something???

 

Anyone ever have the 4hi 4low flashing on their dash. Mine started shortly after having my pads and rotors replaced. It is intermittent and I can’t figure out why it comes and goes. Is there something that the mechanic may have damaged that would cause this?

when it is flashing I can’t shift into 4wd but when it’s not flashing everything works as it should.

 

The ABS sensor wires are very delicate and can be easily damaged. They can actually be damaged just by stretching them, the insulation can appear fine but the strands of fine wire can be broken or as may be your case, intermittent. This would be where I'd start.

If you're in a situation where you need 4WD, try turning the truck off then restarting it. Before moving the vehicle, try putting it it 4WD. In this situation, the ABS computer hasn't had the chance to do it's check and may allow engagement whereas after the check, it won't if it detects a fault.

 

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you for your help! I will check this out.

 

I ran my obd scanner today and it threw a B1423 code. 2019 SR5.

Online shows it's to do with A/C. It's -15 here and I can't really test it. I have had the battery disconnected to swap out some bulbs.

A/C light works and it appears to blow colder air, based on a few minutes test. I have used the A/C in conjunction with front window defrosting on cold days.

Anything to worry about?

 

Not sure if this is where to ask this sort of question.

I’m wanting to swap my 2012 steering wheel with 2014 steering wheel. Can you provide me with the connector part numbers and wiring diagrams for each so that I can build a connecting wiring harness for this.

 

2018 Tundra 4WD with intermittent “cold” startup issues. I say “cold” because it’s Houston and been no less than 55 degrees when it has happened. A key secondary issue which goes hand in hand with bogging down startup is that the power seat does not return to memory position when inserting the key and powering on.

The battery tests within spec and is less that 2 years old. 68000 miles.

Took it to the dealer and they said it had no codes and was not reproducible. Is there a place I can see the wiring diagram and tell them which fuses/connections to test?

Edit: Today I had a startup and seat issue with an additional problem. The radio was muted and neither the knob on the radio nor the button on the steering wheel would react until a restart. ECM issue?

 

Fuel pump

 

Warning: This post involves transmission temps.

My specific question is regarding the factory transmission oil thermostat operating temperature. What is it??

I've spent days searching online and I've got what people say their temps are, pinned, unpinned or whatever. I don't really care about that. I am trying to determine at what temp the trans thermostat opens at. I believe it to be at 225*, but I have not been able to find this from official Toyota sources.

Not looking for a debate, just an actual Toyota spec for the thermostat's operating temp. I believe it is 1 thermostat now for 2007-2021.

Thanks in advance!

 

Hoping this is the right place to ask this. I've searched around and have not found an answer to this exact issue.

2011 Tundra DC 4.6L w/ approx. 169k miles

I was under the truck on Sunday doing something else when I noticed oil seeping from around the oil pan gasket and getting on some of the adjacent areas as well. I have not noticed any notable accumulation on the ground under the truck, so I'm assuming this is more of a seep than a leak. I recently did an oil change using Mobil 1 0W-20 and changed the filter housing over to the metal housing (switching the internal parts). Checked the dip stick and there is plenty of oil, making it to the upper tick mark, so possibly too much?

Should I be concerned about this? Should I just monitor it for now and see if it gets worse? Could there be too much oil in the engine? I haven't noticed any smoke indicating this. Or could it just be a bad oil drain plug gasket? After my most recent change, I realized I did not change the drain plug gasket. Perhaps the oil is just running down.

Some other similar forums recommended checking the torque on the pan bolts others say the gasket around the pan needs to be replaced. My understanding that the gasket is more of an RTV formed in place sealant and not an actual rubber gasket. I've been told by one Toyota dealer that I have the cam tower leak, another dealer told me that there was nothing wrong with the truck and the service reps just make a killing off that particular repair. Having not noticed any drop in oil level or the truck running poorly, I've left the "cam tower leak" alone, hoping Toyota eventually releases an extended service bulletin. I have not taken the truck back to the dealer in over 15k miles roughly since I started changing oil on my own.

I can try to get a picture when I have time. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

If there is no oil on the ground I would just monitor it. It's not harming anything. Have a look at the metal filter canister you bought and make sure it's not leaking. Where did you buy the replacement? If you installed an aftermarket one you were better off with the original plastic Toyota housing. Cam tower leaks will result in a smell from the oil seeping on the exhaust manifold and burning off. If you're not smelling anything it's unlikely it's leaking. Don't expect Toyota to release an extended service campaign to cover the cost on a 12 year old truck. Personally I would use an engine cleaner and pressure wash the engine and monitor where the seepage is and monitor.

 

I will keep an eye on it. Could just be a fluke. The metal housing came straight from the dealer and is a genuine Toyota Part, I took the skit plate off and did not see any oil coming from there. I smell oil every once in a while, but not consistently and like I said I haven't noticed a drop in oil level. I'm not banking on Toyota covering it, but one can hope with it being such a widespread issue.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Hi, I have a 2007 Tundra 5.7L w/ ~195K miles I recently bought. Pedal was soft so I bled the system (MC pressure bleed) several times including ABS bleed procedure via techstream. Pedal remained soft and I ended up in a "replace & bleed" loop where I have replace everything except the ABS module (i.e., pads, rotors, calipers, flexible lines w/ SS lines, questionable hard tubes replaced). None of this has resolved the issue and I feel confident there are no leaks (based on both visual inspection and marking level of fluid in MC over 4-5 weeks).

Based on all of this I am thinking I should replace the ABS. Before I do this the questions I have are:

1. Is there anything else I should consider that I haven't already (excluding the ABS unit and "faulty replacements") ?
2. Is it possible for the ABS module to create a soft pedal condition?
   • For context, pedal feels fine at cold start but turns soft after 3-5 stops; after that if I rapid double/triple pump the pedal firms up and stays firm all the way to stop
   • For example: 50mph, double pump brake pedal, pedal is firm with consistent pressure all the way to full stop. Once foot is off pedal it goes soft again
3. Aside from physically replacing the ABS module is there anything I need to worry about in terms of reprogramming or otherwise?

Thanks in advance!