General Supercharger Thread

Interesting you saw no change.

 

Probably since your Iat temp is monitored differently than ours only through the maf.

 

This is my guess too

however, you maggies probably have the same delta

My contention is the intercooler fluid is heat soaked after say 20 minutes

the only way to cool it is to move more air over it

Stop lights did the same, the delta increased past 30 degrees at a long light

then back down after a mile or so

In short the only major affect to IAT is speed

 

Would be sweet to rig up one of those CO2 intercooler sprayers, and find a way to make it only spray above a particular throttle percentage. No idea if that would even be possible though.

 

Just run nitrous and then you'll get cooling directly into the combustion chamber instead of the round about way of cooling the intercooler.

Honestly doing a simple water drip (like a swamp cooler) would probably do a lot and be super simple.

 

I have thought of a water sprayer/mister or something similar before. It would have to be distilled water as to not get calcium buildup all over the intercooler, but it would probably help a lot. For the most part, it think cooling the intercooler loop is a waste of effort.

 

A large pusher fan may be in order if you also have a trans cooler up front.

My E46 M3 has an OEM pusher fan in front of everything, and I converted the crank puller fan to electric

 

As per @nobodyintexas suggestion. Just ordered a stage 2 harrop for my 2019 stock tires and trd wheels at 36000 miles. Wish me luck . Crossing my fingers No bad wiring harnesses. Went with d3 pulley, 650s and tuning package.

 

I pondered an electric fan in front that would only come on <1000 rpms.

My thought was to cool the I/C at stop lights.

but...not enough juice for the squeeze.


now -I'm just gonna run this b1tch till the wheels come off.

 

Question for the hive....

I run stock 1794 wheels/tires - 20's.

32 inches tall.

the question -

If I put wheels/tires on that were ~28.5 inches tall...would that simulate 5.29 gears? or ~3400rpm

or am I thinking wrong?



@Saltyhero13 's chart

 

Going by this calculator I think it would be closer to a 4.88, if I did that right.

That said it would essentially be the same resulting ratio as someone with 35s running 5.29 gears.

 

These would let massive amounts of heat rise out!

 

If I’m reading that chart right, you would have to go down to less than a 28” (like around 25”) diameter tire to effectively get your 5.29 gear ratio. But I like think you would just spin tires like crazy.

 

The chart is telling you how to get into a specific band i.e. power vs efficiency by changing tire or gears.

The calculator is telling what gear ratio is need to restore your current ratio. That's the only additional information its is really adding. I would be less concerned about effective ratios and more interested in which efficiency/power band I'm in.

 

As Silver said, 32/28.5 * 4.3 = 4.83 which would be the effective gearing. By comparison 32/26*4.3 = 5.29, so a 26" diameter tire has the same force applied to the ground as a 5.29 does with a 32".

 

Just another gear/tire/driveshaft chart I used when ordering for my JK

 

I believe there is a breaking point where lower gearing actually translates to a slower truck when you have a certain amount of wheel horsepower to weight ratio, also depending on tire size. I was playing with a gear calculator for the best 1/4 mile times given my truck size and weight. I’ll include the link. It said my ideal ratio with 32.5” tires, 500whp, and 6500 lbs is 4.38 so guess I’m staying stock. https://www.motivegear.com/wp-content/uploads/calculator/drag-performance-calculator.html

 

What is a reasonable price for a used TRD set up? Seller asking 6k, I'm thinking that is steep considering it has to be sent out to be rebuilt or one risks killing it seeing as there is no way to know what condition/how much stress miles it had.



TRD supercharger kit used original 7psi pulley Comes with majority of the components minus what’s listed below: *no belt, buy a gates green *No tune, you have options VFtuner and HPtuners *No in-tank fuel pump which you should already upgrade to a prospeed kit.

Also he says at full asking engine harness is incuded. What harness is that & is it needed?

 

buy a new kit...you will live a happier life.

 

I bought my blower used and bought the fit kit new. And still came in cheaper. At that price I’d buy new

 

What did you pay? Did you need to rebuild the blower?

I'd think 3k is the most that is reasonable used. What is the harness? Does it come with a new kit?

 

Def get a new kit over that. Rebuild is going to be $2k minimum. New blower and kit is only $7500. I paid $3500 for my new trd blower assembly

 

My used blower was freshly rebuilt and never reinstalled. I’m into mine $5.5k I think. Not including upgrades that I added.

 

You can buy new for just a bit more and know exactly what you will have!

 

I paid $3k for mine, minus the tune, fuel pump, and the oil cooler lines. $6k is insane, once you add in the shit it's missing it's the same price as new.

For the record a blower rebuild from SCOL is $1250 iirc, assuming the rotors themselves are fine which unless you sucked something in they should be.

 

Which would be clearly visible I assume?

I'm thinking I'll offer 2k & see what happens.

 

I'd think so, mine ingested a rock or a socket and had visible marks on the rotors. My rotors also became mistimed which might explain the wear on the edges. New rotors are an additional $1250. For the record this was of my doing, the blower was fine when I recieved it used and this was a few years later.

 

Thanks, I'll hold out for new. I have the weird Whipple recurring dream. Can't find anyone that can provide input.

 

That's way cheaper than they quoted me for a Tacoma S/C rebuild

 

Just checked my quote, and granted this was nearly 2 years ago but it was $1350 for the basic rebuild/gaskets, and excluding shipping.