1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

You had me at lumens

 

They are cheapo LED shop lights. Light helps a lot with the tiny plastic connectors, especially when de-pinning things. I worked for a while with a headlamp and the old garage I overspent on 9 panels to get enough light. I may redo those in a bit but they are directly over where I had my workbench and it’s helpful.

Hopefully, even though it’ll be expensive, I can build on the east side. That’s a project for another day though.

 

Personally if I owned a garage and had space concerns, I’d have my bench and tools in a cage that could be put on rollers and moved around if necessary to adapt to new situations. You can lock it up from the kids too and have lights at the top of the cage with drop down moveable power cables suspended from the ceiling.

 

Yeah, my biz stuff is on a workbench with wheels, as is the primary toolbox, both lockable.

The part which won't move around is the 5 costco shelves, they are heavy AF and that's where all the bins go with all the materials (mostly connectors, plugs, seals, terminals, tubing, heat shrink....)

 

no, stock RC with 6 foot bed

 

Any chance for storage up in these spaces?

 

Floor coating looks good btw

 

What about a garage door bump out? @shifty`

 

That's the gearwall + shelves. Yes. It had shelves before, $1 metal brackets with slotted screws. Took me a while to get that crap down and out. I prefer 100 lb shelves:
https://www.gladiatorgarageworks.com/products/45-gearloft™-shelf#:~:text=Holds up to 100 lbs.

I should have / wanted to do that first but the wife offered to help move shelves in. After her reaming me for "not making a decision" we went with 3 shelves on the right wall (East) and the option to park a truck on the left side (single bay). Right now that's where we stash her bike. Dunno about the tandem quite yet I would like to hang it from the ceiling somehow.

I can get some photos of this midway state. Need to get the fridge in and it'll be an extension cord situation for it for now. Then moving all the crap back into the shelves...

 

I have a 2nd story deck above the garage. Complicates things.

 

So you've got 3/4 of the bump out roof already built!

 

Yeah, I wish it was honestly that simple.

 

Installed the first TRD lift on a turd gen at work. $4000 kit. Oof. New axles, lower knuckle ball joint things, tie rods, shocks, front springs, rear spring spacer seat, brake lines, upper control arms..


Honestly kinda impressive until you see the price

 

Honestly I'm surprised it's not more. That sounds like a lot of labor, and parts. Probably quality parts too I would imagine. Many guys here have close to that much money in their suspension.

 

Oh… that’s just parts. Labor is uh… 1300 I believe

 

The geometry correction stuff in the kit is neat. But I’d never pay for all that

 

Is this a new kit? Or the original with block in the back?

 

tundra kit is all new. still a spacer in the rear. but its a whole new spring seat.

 

Ah, 3rd gen Tundra, makes sense.

 

Oh wow..Yeah that is a lot then.

 

I'd hafta see the before/after to know if it's worth it. I know guys who'd pay $5k installed for a lift kit that's sanctioned by the OEM, doesn't invalidate factory warranty, and gives you the altitude adjustment you need.

If there was a TRD lift kit for our 1st Gens targeted at baja or crawling, best be sure it'd consider it as an option, at least, depending on the price.

 

For serious off-roading with the weight of these new trucks. These 2.0” shocks will overheat quick. It’s a street lift. But replace the shocks with something beefier and it’s probably pretty capable without destroying street ability.

 

2.0's! Even the Tacoma TRD kit is 2.5's I believe, 2.0 on the Tundra is sad

 

The 3rd gen design change I wondered about, when I saw one at T2S, was the mount where the top of the shocks attach. Unlike earlier gens, it is welded to the frame— so replacing those with gusseted after markets didn’t look very possible… and would require cutting out the old and welding in new. And it did not appear robust enough to hold up to fast off-road driving. So, whereas most of us know that no suspension upgrade automatically voids a warranty, that one would. I made an immediate decision that it would never be an equivalent truck for off-roading, compared to earlier generations, because of this significant limitation.

 

Aluminums strength degrades at a much quicker rate. The more you stess it, the more brittle it gets. I know its just an appliance, and you move to something else when the check engine light comes on, but id prefer things that outlast their welcome. When my timing belt breaks, i'm getting a sbf or a 5.3 ls... or a anything else. Instead of trying for 400 hp with a toyota. No boost, but maybe watermeth. Strugglebus up over the continental divide.

 

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A 'godzilla' 7.3 and whatever slushbox 10 spd / tcase would be fine. Even the upcoming 6.8 v8

it might not have a clutch pedal, but ?triple? Overdrive would let it eat down deep. Loud pipes area. And let me fit a proper full front bench.

dont know if i can fit a diesel capable trans without replacing the cab floor. I like the sound of the 5 cyl mb's, would probably fit.

forgot i wanna do a 1-2" bodylift before doing bumpers and sliders. Might be able to fit a big eaton or spicer or more likely a light duty trans and a 4:1 tcase.

 

The noise seems to be getting worse so today I jacked it up and took off the front wheels.

The passenger side outer tie rod looks like it's spewing grease but not sure if that would cause a popping noise. Also noticed the LCA bushings are starting to show their age. The sway bar links were replaced last year but I didn't use OEM. That might be the issue. Sort of a mystery at this point.

 

This is one of those times when rolling next to the vehicle on a skateboard may prove handy. Or GoPro.

 

Check the sway bar links for play. Normally the cause of popping noises over bumps. They’re a year old but could be toast if they were a shitty brand.