General Supercharger Thread

After reading your experience and watching the videos again, it reminded me that I had something similar a while back that I brought up here. It happened a couple times and hasnt done it since. I brushed it off as the MAF needed cleaning. After cleaning it I don’t think it has done it since, but maybe the real issue is the wiring harness. Is the solution to get a new harness from Harrop you think?

Edit: I mentioned my issue back on page 80.

 

May get these "stainless steel hose sleeving with aluminum MagnaClamp hose fitting covers"

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-7492

 

interesting, so you had similar issues as me.

So here’s an update. Took the car out, sat in traffic a bit, drove and the problem is still present. It’s strange that I can replicate this problem easy when the car has been driven longer than 20 min. No codes, I no longer get the P0101 code since bypassing the IAT breakout cable supplied by harrop. Bypassing it fixed that for sure, otherwise I’d have had that code by now. Prior to the wire bypass, I’d get that code allll day.

I was able to video record the issue today. Pretty bad. My foot never lets off throttle for first 2-3 attempts. I then attempt different levels of pedal press to see where I can get it to drive. Less than 50% for sure for it to not trigger.


so…. could this be from a dirty MAF? I’m going to emphasize I had this issue on page 114, this was prior to bypassing the IAT/MAF breakout cable.

 

Wow that's gnarly! I would certainly start with the MAF since that's easy and it's always amazing how small things can cause big problems like that. Outside of the MAF, I'm not sure where I'd start... Can you datalog or adjust the tune, or is the ECU totally stock?

 

Just spit balling, but since you mentioned it happening after a certain throttle point, could check below in HPTuners?

 

@boringdriver I’d check and make sure all of the intake tubing is properly secured and not leaking. I had similar behavior on an old S10 blazer I had when the intake tubing came apart at one of the couplers. The MAF was not reading proper airflow. While you’re at it, clean the MAF sensor with ONLY the specific MAF sensor cleaner as per the directions. I didn’t have that issue again after cleaning mine. Don’t you have the Prospeed intake on that LX? I think they use an oiled filter which doesn’t help. I don’t see why you would have the P0101 otherwise. Seeing as Prospeed did your build, it might be best to take it to them and let them figure it out if the basic stuff checks out ok.

 

I think I’ve been dealing with this same issue. I recently just removed that harness and finagled the factory one to reach. I’m hoping that solves the issue because I kept getting that intermittent P0121 and it would go into limp mode.

 

Yep! That’s what happened to me :-( Code P0121. First symptom was she was revving high and crazy at start up. Engine sounded like I had some race cams lol. Harrop sent me a new harness, so far it’s been good. Do you mind posting a pic of what you did?

 

Fock....

I had P0121 hit me this morning. full limp mode on I45. 7 codes can't see the actual codes in the SGIII. they are all emissions based tho.

10 minutes later...after running fine, I'm exiting beltway 8 onto 225...bam full limp mode the gas pedal is unresponsive.

shut off the engine...attempt to clear codes...start it up and it runs fine.

codes will NOT clear.


Now I'm scared to drive this bitch.


What do I ask Harrop to send me?


FOCK!





Once the sun rises....I'll go fiddle with the harness. but I'm calling Harrop.


I sent a message to Chris Mentrup @ Harrop....he's been golden to me.

 

#thoughtsandprayers and #sendinggoodvibesbutnotactualhelp for @nobodyintexas

 

Damn, don’t everyone have the same issue at once! Crazy how an issue gets mentioned and then other people suddenly have it. Did the temps suddenly drop a lot in Texas or something? Just wondering how the issues may be related.

@boringdriver if I read your posts right, you thought you had solved the throttle cut out issue by removing the Harrop IAT sensor but then with more testing you realized that didn’t actually fix it? But it did fix the P0101 code you were getting?

 

yup..cold/dry front....albeit 64 degrees.

 

@nobodyintexas I’m sure you will, but definitely keep us updated on his response. It could be worth mentioning you’re in communication with several people having issues that seem to be stemming from their wiring harnesses and see his response. It sounds like an issue they should be aware of by now. Sounds like Harrop may need to do some investigating with their electrical harness supplier. This makes me want to order a spare IAT breakout, and throttle body harness to keep in the truck. I don’t want to be stranded in limp mode towing far from home.

 

That is correct. Gonna take some logs today to get to the bottom of this.

 

Don't worry, we all won't. You Harrop boys are in our thoughts and prayers.

Sincerely, Team Magnuson

 

Chris @ Harrop hollered back to me in minutes.

I need to check the harness - in case it wiggled loose.

he will rush another one out if it's not a wiggle solution.

Harrop is awesome.

 

It’s about time you guys have a win. Don’t want anyone getting demoralized.

 

You could just do what @HonorNotInner did and re route the factory TB harness to reach and plug in. It’s literally nothing but a 6” or so extension of the harness to help it reach. I may do that on mine to eliminate the possibility of that problem happening to mine entirely. Reroute it and hold the tension off the connectors with some zip ties and most likely problem solved.

 

ya I did the throttle body bypass and zip tied it to that so there’s no tension pulling on the wires at the harness…. Didn’t mean to post the same picture twice.

 

@nobodyintexas Sending prayers brother! @snivilous and I will come save ya'll Harrop boys if needed. lol

 

Hopefully it’s just a loose connection. I did the same thing when I had the issues then next thing you know… Bam! TPS was fried lol. I had to replace my TB

 

this helps immensely.

doing the gratitude dance in your general direction.

 

Did some research on Ruthenium vs Iridium and here's my findings. TBH, not a whole lot of differences or opinions on which is better. But Ruthenium makes Turbo/Supercharger specific spark plugs, Iridium has only one design. Took a pic of the two that I had laying around in toolbox.

Ruthenium HX is available in two designs to best maximize the performance of your engine.
DFE (double fine electrode) maximizes ignitability, while reducing emissions for low-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for non-turbo applications.
PSPE® (projected square platinum electrode) provides the best ignitability and service life for high-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for turbo and supercharged engines.

 

Ruthenium on bottom, Iridium on top

 

Back in the cobra/lighting days we ran NGK TR6s or Brisk. I did some testing against the brisk plugs and the tips were an odd shape like those above. They eventually broke off and car ran like shit. Went back to TR6s and never looked back. Had them gapped at .28 seemed to be really happy there at 700+whp and 950whtq.

 

Was thinking the same thing, looks like an additional failure point of that little tang breaking off. If you're having spark blow out issues from so much boost I can see there being benefit, with how low our horsepower/boost is I would be amazed if there's any practical difference.

 

how easy is it to change spark plugs on the Tundra with the s/c installed? On the Taco, you have to take the s/c off to do the drivers side.

 

No difference from standard intake plenum, the SC doesn't hang over the valve cover like on the Taco.

 

Seriously, remove the unit? Wow.

Plug change on the Tundra is no different between N/A & S/C.