10k vs 5k mile oil change

Ahh the ole sign of defeat. I provide good info, that you can't argue with, and you think its made up since I didn't provide a source. Tsk tsk. Read my other posts carefully. I told you I'd put you in touch with people who can help you understand things better. But if what you're doing is working, keep doing it. Just try not to spout nonsense about seal longevity due to oil varnish as a fact, when it's just your opinion.

Just an FYI. My 1995 f250 7.3 diesel has 300k miles with no leaks, all extended oil changes my tundra is at 247k with no leaks and extended OCIs

The quality of your oil plays a part in seal longevity as well (seal conditioners, etc)

But I'm fighting a lost cause at this point. I feel I provided good information to help you learn something. I change my views and opinions as more knowledge becomes available. Some people don't and stick to their guns, refusing any new knowledge and information as it challenges their current views and long held beliefs. Nonetheless, I hope your tundra serves you well for a million more miles, completely leak free

 

Yep. I've got not one but TWO coworkers with Tacomas both of which have well over 300,000 miles on the factory stock Mama Toyota transmission oil and they report they drive just fine. And they have no plans to ever change it.

 

Even though Toyota Care would give me a free oil change at 10k miles, I didn't feel comfortable waiting that long especially since it's the first 10k miles on the truck.

Changed oil myself, and glad I did!
Right cap is what came out, left cap is fresh oil!

 

That’s just mean the oil is doing it’s job, cleaning the engine

 

I've worked in Alaska a bit, I know about cold. I have buddies there that run extended OCIs with no I'll effects

It sounds like you need a good cold weather oil. Well I know the perfect one for you if you're interested, and it also contains esters and Alkylated napthalenes to not only prevent, but remove varnish and carbonaceous build up. If you're as worried about varnish as you say you are, I can definitely get you pointed in the right direction. Shipping might be a bit much, but considering you would rather spend money on oil to save yourself from an engine failure, I don't think that will be an issue. If anything it would be good oil to run every few OCIs just to keep things squeaky clean and shiny. If you want to know more about it, ill be more than happy to help

 

Well if you use amsoil, this picture will be right up your alley. Here is a side by side picture of amsoil SS 15w40 next to HPLs 15w40 premium cold climate HDEO
HPL on the left, Amsoil on the right

Both tipped over at the exact same time. -30C

 

Do you have a pic of the same comparison but both oils 0w20 or 5w30?

 

I do not. But HPLs premium plus PCMO and HDEO outperforms amsoil in cold weather conditions. I can see if David will be kind enough to throw some of it in his oil freezer and give me some photos side by side, but it might be awhile. What really blows my mind is that John Deere branded 15w40 did better than the amsoil ss 15w40

 

Interesting. Amsoil says its premium API 15w40 has a pour point of -40ºF. Pour points for other diesel oils are listed below:

I would expect any oil with severe cold weather formulations to outperform any oil without those same additives at temps near the pour point to be honest.

 

Here is the Premium Plus PCMO, it's what I would run in extremely cold climates.

 

*scans document for signatures, finds none...

 

you got me @hagrid of all people I didn't expect to get got by you. Don't I get an award for this or something

I could see if Leslie Rudnick would sign off on it if it would help.

 

My oil was signed.

“Kirk L. And”

 

22 below zero.....

 

That's two things Spraynard.

 

7,500 mile oil change for the win.

 

They signed mine too.

 

Well, you have to pick one. They are mutually egg-sclusive... like a really great handy from a gal with lumberjack callouses.

 

A faulty PCV will cause sludge fest. Infrequent oil changes, short drives and starting car without driving to full operating temp cause sludge fest as well.

 

Also signed by Mr Signature

 

As I have stated before, 2001 F-150 had yearly oil changes with dino 5w30 bulk, low bid oil. Was retired just before it hit 200k, only because the body was toast. No burning, no leaking or any oil related issues. Used and abused , ridden hard and put away wet. The life of a municipal owned truck.

This discussion can go on forever with no resolution or right answer !

 

I never change my oil, not once. Doesn’t burn a drop, she’s got 250k+. I only change the oil filter once every year. Still running strong!

This is what I hear

 

Let me try some of that next time…

 

I feel the exact same way. People are confusing opinions for facts. Every vehicle that I've owned has gotten a 10k OCI and it was backed by oil analysis from Black Stone labs.

 

Why guess or suffer through all the internet blowhards?
Hire a truck psychic and find out exactly what's going on inside your truck.

 

My T H O U G H T S too.

 

Sad the stealership's are to blame for the early failures and eager to step up and put you in a new car... with 10K oil change intervals

 

It took years for me to adjust to doing them at 5k vs 3k. You'll never convince me to do them at 10k

 

Fact is, change your oils however the eff you want. This site is not a large enough or coordinated enough sample set to draw a conclusion about anything.

Now if this was a F-150, RAM, or Chevy forum, it may be different. We are driving the most reliable trucks on the road today. Just change it, and you will be happy.


Now for an opinion piece! I have had very successful results testing Maple Sap as an oil. All natural straight from the tree. Smells good too and you can use it on pancakes when you're done.