General Supercharger Thread

You could open the fluid reservoir and see the fluid moving with the engine running. You might be able to do this with the key in the RUN position without the engine running as well. I can hear my pump run from in the cab when I turn the key to RUN prior to rotating it to START. You may need to jump out and walk to the front to hear it. I suspect that it's mounted up by the radiator, not sure with the Magnusson layout. Follow the hoses and you should find it.

 

This is correct ^

 

Does the tundra Magnuson intercooler pump run occasionally when the truck is off like the Tacoma does? For the Taco I will kick on for like 5-10 seconds every so often when the truck is parked and no key in

 

Mine does not it’s wired to ignition on.

 

Same on harrop

 

This was good advice just tried it out. With the ignition in run you can easily hear the pump, it’s surprisingly loud. Plus removing the intercooler reservoir by the supercharger was obvious the fluid was moving there too. So yeah I guess in 70 degree weather the intercooler is not much warmer for regular driving.

 

What do you think the reason for this might be... I certainly can't think of one.

 

I initially used a different ignition activated fuse for my pump as I already had 3 other things pulling off the ignition fuse that is recommended in the install instructions. Occasionally when the truck had been sitting it would fire up the pump for no reason and it would run for 45 seconds or so. I eventually rewired it to the recommended fuse so it would stop potentially draining the battery.

 

I'd wager that it was probably connected to a part of the circuit that fires up once in a while do deal with the fuel vapor in the fuel tank. I can't think of it's proper name at the moment... Every once in a while, someone who's unfamiliar with it starts a thread asking about a ghost in the machine or something.

 

I don't know if anyone answered this, but as I recall I did get the extension since I mounted the afr sensor on the passenger side collector. I think the cable length included is like 3ft.

 

I've found two sources online that say it comes with an 8ft cable and haven't found anything about people needing the extension.. still not sure if I need it? lol

-https://www.summitracing.com/parts/inn-38920

 

Pinging usually sounds like sand hitting something. Little tapping noises. What you're describing very well may be pinging. The stock tunes are rarely the best, though that's not to say they don't work fine for most, but can most certainly be improved on such as what you (may be) describing. VictorG has shown evidence that the (older) Magnuson/TRD tunes resulted in a lot of timing retard to prevent knock, which would match with what you're seeing--assuming it is pinging.

Also I don't entirely follow your comments on the intercooler lines. The intercooler at the absolute coldest can only be ambient temperature--its not like the AC and can chill the air below the outside temperature. The intercooler really is only functional in a high heat event where the fluid can pull out heat because it's so much hotter than the ambient (outside) air temperature.

 

Fuck it, just get it and see what works. It's been years since I installed mine so Im probably misremembering; 8ft sounds like plenty.

 

I remember that you and I had this conversation before I ordered mine. I found my invoice and don't see an extension on it. I had mine installed in the same location as you too. The description on the website doesn't give cable length.

 

I was thinking how we had the same conversation too well there's the answer @V10Ace ! Maybe I'll remember next time now.

 

Oh I just meant I expected the intercooler to be much hotter like radiator hot where it’s nearly too hot to touch. So overall a good thing it’s actually “cold”.

 

Alternating the responsibility, I have faith that we can make it through this.

 

Appreciate your help guys!

 

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I have a brand new one in the box in my garage. I’ll go out and measure soon. It’s 8 feet.

 

Finally made it to the dyno for a measurement of what the mods have added. Never did a baseline so I just have to go off of the averages seen from others.

My truck has the stage 2 harrop along with JBA longtubes and the 3 inch dirty deeds race exhaust. The final tuned numbers were 512 rwhp and 507 tq. This was on a mustang dyno fwiw.

Tuner said the torque number was likely higher down lower but not being able to start the run until 3900 rpm made it show a little lower. Definitely runs better on the way home than the way there. It still isn't "fast" but for a 6200 lb long bed truck lifted and on 35s it does ok.

 

Those are great numbers on a heart breaker dyno. For the stage 2, did you only do the 80mm pulley or did you also add more fuel goodies outside of the stage 1 fuel pump? 91 oct?

 

Yeah it has the 650cc injectors and 80mm pulley but since my truck is a flex fuel version the stock pump was large enough so no change there. That is all. Just wish it had a locking diff.

We have 93 octane here in AL.

 

Finished my Stillen f*ck*ry:

Tight fit but can be done with off the shelf parts. Easily done with a smaller filter.
Starting with the girthy head on the left, if I dont specify a name it means several manufacturers make one:

1. Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filter w/Magnum SHIELD Pre-Filters SKU 21-91119 - You know its good when the filter looks like its going to rob a bank.
   
2. Spectre Performance 9610 Funnel type Air Filter - Goes from 6 inch to 4.5 allowing you to throw on a very large filter.
   
3. A 4.5inch ID 3 inch straight coupler - connects the filter adapter and the MRP Intake pipe
4. MRP 4.5 inch OD 6 inch long intake pipe with MAF - available in two flavors straight and not straight (no air mesh)
5. 4.5 inch ID hump coupler - gives some relief for when the engine twists left and right. Also let it bend slightly since the Stillen airbox hole is slightly off center from the throttle body.
6. 4.5 inch OD 3 inch long joiner pipe - will host the vacuum line, you could also drill the vacuum line into the MRP intake.
   
7. Vibrant 5/8" OD hard mount vacuum line - no weld option. Drill a hole, pop in the grommet, stick the fitting in. ** its not in the picture, ended up installing it later in the day.
   
8. 4.5 inch ID to 3.5 inch ID reducer coupler.
9. The hole in the Stillen box is sealed with the items listed before just in a different order: Roofing flasher (a rubber boot), a duct coupler. and some seals
10. I also changed out the coupler on the front part of the intake. It is now a 3inch ID offset coupler.

 

I smile a bit when I see such consistency across all the builds. Jelly of the 512whp.

for comparison...my stage 2 TQ peaked @ 3900 (477/518) they bypassed some sensor and the dyno reads from 2500. it was over 500 TQ from 3500 to 4700.

I'm intake & stock exhaust w/TRD cat back.

 

Sweet !!!!

 

I though that it was just a temporary change in one of the transmission maps; revert the map when finished.

 

I can’t quite figure out why the TRX is just so fast. Of course it has crazy power, but it’s also super heavy, with big heavy 35s. It has to come down to the gearing of the transmission and rear being a perfect match for acceleration. This video for example, the TRX makes a bit more power but it’s also way heavier and not on small street tires. I expected a better performance from the Roush than that and it just got destroyed. The TRX seems to defy physics lol. Anyone have a clue what the secret is to it’s crazy acceleration? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hC8pumlEGSU

 

Do the Roushe’s have launch control?

 

TRX is AWD and setup for launching like it does. Most videos I see s/c F150's pulling from rolls.

 

Gears for the 2021 TRX. Couldn't find info on the Roush