General Supercharger Thread

Funny enough taco world is talking about fuel rails too. Looks like this place has some stuff for the tundra. They just made fuel rails for the Taco, none for Tundra yet but the taco's are only $250, so may be worth keeping an eye on for Tundra rails

http://www.radiumauto.com/Tundra-Sequoia-Land-Cruiser-C118.aspx

 

I was wondering if they made Tundra fuel rails too. I have their rails on my LS and they're absolutely sick.

 

I emailed them to ask if anything is in r&d for the tundra rails. We'll see...

 

About to install the Stillen intake. When I emailed them a few months back they sounded open to the idea of r&d'ing a version for the s/c folks. Doing a quick measurement it really looks like a super easy thing for them to do. Before the bend to attach to the throttle body, the tube is already 4" at the narrowest. After the bend it reduces down to 3.25" ID, 3.5" OD.

I assume everything else is the same between s/c and non s/c intakes as far as fitment goes, the only change is tube diameter? If that's right I'll send them an updated email and get their thoughts.

 

You know what, I'm kinda not sure I want to run the Stillen anymore....the filter housing box doesn't seem like they updated it for the 2019+ that well. The fender hole inlet part is noticably smaller than stock and doesn't seal, it doesn't have the support tube/grommet next to the fender inlet hole to support the box, and only one of the two bolt holes on the bottom match factory locations.

 

The only benefit of Stillen is if you don't want to cut a SABM. Those are all easy fixes.

 

I get OCD with my builds sometimes lol so those little things with the Stillen will bug me! I'm gonna revert to stock for now and keep the Stillen in storage until I get more s/c fit kit parts then decide

 

Working on sourcing nonProSpeed parts for folks that want a 4.5 inch intake on the Stillen. I'm still waiting on parts before test fitting.

 

I think the only truly consequential measurement as far as Intake diameter is the diameter of the part of the pipe where the MAF is located (and likely the couple inches before and after the MAF). This ultimately is what the tuning and MAF voltage issues come down to.

 

I think this is very much true. The Stillen is funky cause it uses a 5.5 inch filter or something and necks down to a 3.5.

 

Ok took a nap and decided to not be lazy. Finished the install. And my earlier note about 1 of the 2 bottom notes not working was wrong. I am going to leave the factory front deflector since I've already cut and run the transmission cooler lines through it and don't want to fuck with uninstalling those. Air can still get to the secondary front inlet fine. I'll eventually cut a hole in the factory air deflector for the stillen inlet

 

So that secondary inlet does get blocked off when the grill is reinstalled. So did some cutting. Will clean it up in the future

 

Thats what I did @M3Tundra-JK . My stock deflector was already butchered so I just cut a hole for the nozzle. Once I got the basic shape I used tin snips and a file to shape the hole with a little more finesse.

 

I did the quick and dirty with a bunch of 1/8" drill bit holes, and then connected the dots with a hot razor blade

 

This is what I did.

Unfortunately I did not keep track of part info but everything was relatively easy to find.
*4.5" aluminum tube with a 30• bend, cut to fit
-cut the maf housing from OEM intake and adapt to new pipe with redneck engineering (jb weld/rtv silicone/duct tape/moonshine/etc)
-drill and grommet new hole for intake air vacuum hoses.

*4.5" rubber coupler to the stock throttle body(3" or 3.5 for RCF.. only going off memory, check your own)
*4.5" flange cone filter
*Make your box to fit using poly sheets or gut a stock box and squeeze the cone in there.

 

Are those no weld vacuum and MAF? If so that opens up a whole lot of options.

 

No welding.

The maf connection is literally the oem stock maf housing that I cut out of the stock n/a intake. Then I just cut a hole in the new pipe large enough for the sensor to clear it and then attached it with a bead of RTV black silicone to hold the stock plastic tight to the metal pipe while also creating an airtight seal.
(Just to clarify, I test fit it with the sensor while making it and REMOVED the sensor to use the silicone, then reinstalled after it was cured and confirmed secure)
It's been that way for a few years and never budged. There's also the option to JB weld it, or screw it/bolt it. But I figured the less intrusive option was better so long as it's secure. The actual sensor is held in place using the stock screws and stock mount.

There are 2 vacuum hoses that attach to the oem tube, one larger (the hole you can see in the top pic behind my WMI jet/nozzle) that comes from the 3 way "T" on the pass side of the SC. The other attached to the oem FPR for atmospheric reference. Both can be connected to the new pipe with simple fittings and drilling the appropriate size hole.

 

Found the oem part for the hood seal/air gap. Got that installed with my foam to the adv glass. Heat should have a hard time getting through there now. Another idea I'm working on is after the liners are installed is adding a vent in the passenger fender to help pull heat out. This and the seibon hood should keep some heat out.

 

Reply from Radium Auto about fuel rails:

"We will pass the product suggestion on to our engineers, but it is not currently in our plans.
Technical Support
Radium Engineering LLC"

 

Is that air seal something you took off originally? I'll have to look at mine again, just don't remember a part there when I installed the intake

 

So the black trim is oem. The foam is an addition. I discovered a large gap in both oem and aftermarket fenders that heat travels into the wheel well. This heat sits in the fender well where the intake port is. Adding the foam and the oem panel helps fight this by keeping iat temps down.

 

is the foam home depot?...I'm doing this soon.

the cut up pool noodle theory did not hold up...it needs to be more squishy.

 

They "sort of" have rails for the 3GTacoma.

I am working closely with JamesT on TacomaWorld on true purpose built port injection fuel rails to supplement the fueling, complete with hose kits using high quality material and fittings since fuel runs through them, because the stock PI fueling design is simply atrocious and feeds all cylinders in-line (2-4-6-5-3-1; resulting in significant passenger side leaning, in lower rpm at high load), and I'm using the rails to help dial in a paired tune to go with them for our Magnuson supercharger customers who run our YotaWerx MagSC tune.

The radium rails are for the 2GR, but they're made for the Lexus application and for the 2GR-FKS (3gtacoma) they require adapters to make them bolt up. They work I'm sure, but they're not actually developed FOR that motor/application specifically.

 

I got mine from ACE but Home Depot/lowes should for sure have it. Its square insulation foam for windows that I believe I got in 2" so it would squish and form. So far i've been hitting dunes etc and its stayed no problem.

 

It looks like his run was down a pretty good hill (-5 degrees), the spike around 25-30 MPH was likely a bump that just threw off the Draggy. If you can manage a 0-60 run on some flat pavement you might get more reliable results.

 

The dragy is just problematic with calculating the slope. I have other runs done at the same exact location and the slope reads drastically different on multiple runs. This one was recorded going up a hill (I 100% know it is, as I walk my dog on this road and you can see/feel it) yet the dragy still reads it as a negative slope.

 

Which CAI are you guys running? Tuner said my MAF was maxing out at 5.5volts whatever that means lol and recommends a bigger diameter intake :-(

 

The MAF can physically only measure so much air flow. A larger diameter intake = more area = more air flow at the same MAF reading. Stock intake is 3.5" at the MAF, the Magnuson is 4.0", some people on here have gone even larger. The intake itself doesn't really matter, it's the diameter of the tube where the MAF is mounted that matters. As you adjust that diameter you will have to retune the truck each time too. Other people are more knowledgeable than I with what intakes have what size tubes.

TL;DR: more air requires larger diameter at MAF

 

Thanks for the enlightening me Tuner did say, as soon as find a bigger diameter intake he will retune it.

 

I’m tempted to just try one of these and then get some rubber tubing to squeeze over each end with clamps and make it work in place of the stock rubber tube. It’s 4” diameter, 6” in length and has a proper mounting location for the Factory MAF sensor. https://performancemrp.com/i-304976...th-air-straightener.html?ref=category:1389188