I want to replace the speakers in my Tundra....need help.

He means he modified the rear door factory tweeter location to allow his new tweeters to fit. There is some plastic that holds in the factory tweeter and he cut some away and then glued his new tweeter in.

Question, how do you plan to power a sub with a 4 channel amp? Bridge the rear channels and not hook up any rear speakers?

 

@Beerdude77 is right. the factory tweeters in the rear doors are pretty small and the have a little plastic cup that holds them in. i took a dremel and cut the cup out so there would a flush mounting surface. i did not want to modify the front side of the door as i wanted to keep the factory appearance.

also, if you're going to run new speaker wire rather than use the factory wire, you will need to drill a small hole in the door so you can get the wire through the factory grommet. the factory wiring harness takes up the whole space.

you'll need a 5 channel amp or a 4 channel and a separate sub amp. i'm using a 1000w 5 channel amp. 75w x 4 @ 4ohms and 500w x 1 @ 1ohm.

 

This was exactly what I thought too regarding the requirement of drilling that harness to fish the wires through. @B737 says he didn't have to, perhaps he can explain how he was able to avoid this procedure

 

i'm not sure how you could get through there without drilling a hole. there is no space in the factory harness connector. i did a small hole just below the harness. it's just large enough to put 16g speaker wire through. then i just put a little bit of silicon around it to seal it up. i can take a pic for you if you need it.

 

Nah I believe you, I've seen the same in videos on YouTube and can't fathom how to do it without drilling. @B737 says there is a way in this thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/has-anyone-upgraded-the-dash-speakers.25539/

 

So, I was blown away by how poor the sound system is. I've never upgraded a vehicle sound system in my life but this sound is worse than a 80s Kcar. My question is do I have to replace the front control center (is this what y'all are referring to as a head unit). I don't want to lose anything and want to leave it as stock as possible. I don't need loud but I do want quality or at least not shit. Thanks in advance.

 

Control center=headunit
You'll need a sound processor to clean up the sound quality if you want to keep stock headunit

 

Thanks. I think I read that there are aftermarket head units that keep a lot of the functions available. Do they maintain the large viewing screen? My eyes appreciate big font lol. Hard to believe a $60000 truck has this kind of system in it.

 

I am going 4 channel Kicker Key amp and a powered sub.

 

Drilling the factory seals is nuts. I did not want to compromise them. Get a snake, needs to be similar to a thin automotive speedometer cable, and fish the snake through with the factory bundle, without damaging the wires. Just takes patience and a little extra time.

 

What hu will adapt to the streering wheel and the options of the truck, like the original?

 

you want a HU that is compatible with iDataLink / Maestro

 

What is powering your subs?

 

Powered sub.
The kind with integrated amp within the box.
Kicker Harmony has good reviews.

 

Gotcha so essentially running 2 amps so you'll need to install a distribution block.

 

I had a Jeep Wrangler a couple cars ago. It had the alpine stock system with the subwoofer. For a stock system, it was kick ass. The head unit also had a 60 gig drive built in. I copied all the music I own on that thing. Toyota stock system is no better than the FJ I had 8 years ago. No push to start is a mo fo as well. Last truck being a taco and all. I did the OEM Audio plus in my taco and it sounded really good. I don’t know that it sounded 1500.00 good though.

 

Did the kicker key amp work out good? Only 180w? I was thinking about getting that to power 4 jbl component door speakers. Not sure if it’s enough power though

 

For my listening pleasure I am completly satisfied, it won't blow your doors off, then again you aren't spending a ton of money.
Sounds great even cranked up.

 

I have $900 bucks into my upgrade. Alpine R Series in doors with 1” tweeters. Kept stock head unit but have Alpine amp running door speakers. Pioneer 10” sub with Pioneer amp running the sub.

 

Stupid question John, but I'll ask no less. How did you wire in your KEY180.4 ? I have the same amp and I've purchased the Metra harness as well as the Sosche and no joy. There is a 12 pin plug not provided by them. Today I ordered harness #4438 from AutoHarness.com hoping that it works. Then I read that you need the male side as well. Did you have to leave the OEM amp in place and plugged in ? Or did Kicker amp replace the OEM one altogether. Also, I purchased a powered sub. How do I tap into the speaker signal to run the sub? Sorry for all the questions but any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Truck is a '21 Limited Crewmax non-JBL
Reviving an old thread here but seems to have a lot of relevant information in it. I'm trying to wade through all my options on how to improve the stock audio and, like many, want to retain the stock look and features. I've already installed a powered sub which has drastically improved the quality but was looking at replacing the speakers and have opened up a tangled mess of possibilities due to the configuration of the stock non-JBL system. I've got a couple directions I'm considering going but want to be sure that I don't lose any features.
1. My first option is to replace the factory amp with a small 4 channel (at 4 ohms) amp as well as replace the 4 door speakers with upgraded 4 ohm speakers and abandon the dash speakers in place. If I abandon the dash speakers will my phone calls still come through the door speakers? Seems like a silly question but I swear I read somewhere that the phone call audio comes from the center speaker.
2. Second option is everything in the first option except leave the dash speakers connected and probably replace them with higher quality speakers that match the factory speaker impedance.

 

I replaced my dash corner speakers, but that center speaker was a problem. I never found something I knew would work. If I recall, it has something odd about it like it has signal coming from two directions to be the "center". I just left it there.

What sub config did you put in, I never actually bit that off but have subs everywhere in my house (living room, bedroom, bonus room) and am a musician/sound guy who loves clear lows!

 

I installed a "cheapy" powered compact sub from Crutchfield. It's a Sound Ordnance which is their in-house brand as far as I know. It fits under the driver's seat and sounds good for what it is. I'm happy with it considering what it cost. I'm kind of thinking of cutting a little section out under the rear seat to move it back there but it is fine where it is for now.
That center speaker is a doozy. It's an 8-ohm dual voice coil with each coil in parallel (I believe) with the corner dash speakers. Not sure what to do with them, abandoning them seems like the best option as long as everything still works withouth them.

 

I just left the dash speakers alone. They don't put out enough sound to even notice.

 

You can swap the corners for the tweeter of your choice and leave the center as is.