Multiple misfires after rebuild ** FIXED **

If I do, I only tape every 6" or so, only with the intent to keep the wires in the loom, while still allowing drainage.

I've been known to use zip-ties just the same. It just doesn't look as clean in some instances.

 

So I got it all back together and I went to start it and the starter isn’t working. I know it is plugged in to the big power line and the little connector. Isn’t there a way to test it by jumping the relay?

 

So I jumped the power at the relay and the starter didn’t do anything. I guess this means I get to take the intake manifold off again?

 

So I took it all apart again. I reseated the connectors and now when I jumper it at the relay the engine cranks. Awesome. But, not when I turn the key. It doesn’t do anything when I try to crank it. I’m out of ideas at this point. Should I put my ECU back in? What tells the starter to start? Is it the ECU?

 

Shouldn’t it crank with the intake manifold off? Or do all the sensors have to be plugged in? I assume it should crank.

 

Not sure about the starter, but the radio won’t work unless the air conditioner controls are plugged in, so maybe you need to have all the connections seated and sensors online for the ignition to work.

 

Ok, so I put it all back together and it is still the same. Turn the key, nothing. I put 12v to the relay pin to the starter and it started and ran. It seems much better. It is still saying misfires on 1,5, and 7, but it doesn’t feel like it is missing.

I guess my major problem is now that I can’t start it. Could it be the relay? I have never actually seen one go bad. I don’t think there is another I can test with.

 

There should be a 5 amp fuse in Engine Bay labeled ST2 that protects the starter relay according to 02 EWD.

 

With ignition on and the engine off, the 5 amp fuse has no power to it. As well, the relay has no power to it. Should it have power?

 

You will not have 12vdc to fuse nor the starter relay until you turn the Ign Sw to the Start Pos, labeled ST2 on the drawing with red arrow. You'll have to position your meter as you sit in truck to check voltages while turning key to start position. With ignition on/engine off, the pointer would be at the IG2 position as seen on drawing.

 

So I rented a relay and circuit tester and it appears that I have a circuit fault when testing the starter relay. I have no idea what that means. Apparently both lights should not be illuminated at the same time on a given circuit. Any ideas?

 

Here’s a thought, the car won’t start if it thinks it’s in gear. My speedometer is still not working. Could it be the transmission sensors are not working?

 

I was thinking, should I have tried cranking it with the tester installed? I just tested it with the key on and engine off.

 

Can't help you with that tester but if you still have that volt ohm meter that you used a number of pages back, perhaps test the relay with it !
Terminals 1 and 2 are the relay coil which is nothing more than a long ass piece of wire and if if you have continuity, relay coil is good !

 

Does the shift indicator in the dash show what gear you are currently in?

 

Yes, it shows park. The light is burned out but the other lights work.

 

I just tested all the terminals and there is no continuity between any 2 terminals, if I did it correctly.

 

The relay died. I’m going to get a new one.

 

So, it’s not the relay. The plug that goes into the relay that is supposed to go to the starter has no power when I try to start it. What feeds that one?

 

What you are showing as pin 2 should pin 3 and the pin across from what you are showing as pin 1 is pin 2. Those 2 are the coil and should show continuity. Pin 3 and 5 ate the relay contacts.



Is there not a drawing on top of that relay ?

 

Is this correct?

 

When I check pin 1 and 2 it shows 76 ohms. Is that correct?

 

So when I try to start it, I have power at pin 5. The ST2 fuse also has power when I try to start it.

 

Out shopping but 3 and 5 correct.
1 and 2 may be right but you’ll know which one 2 is since it is gnd. Meaning if you check pin 2 to gnd with your meter for continuity, you’ll know. Pin 1 has voltage when starting if fuses are good along with your Park/Neutral safety switch

 

So I just jumped across pin 5 & 3 with a short wire and it started. I just checked and pin 1 has voltage when trying to start it. Maybe pin 2 ground is not correct?

 

Pin 2 does not have continuity to ground. I’m not sure where that is supposed to ground to.

 

I grounded pin 2 to the chassis and it fired right up. Apparently I have a ground issue. I don’t know where to begin looking for that.

 

On the bright side, all the misfires are back! Awesome. Back to square one.

 

That, and my speedometer is still not working. I have tried both speed sensors so I assume it is something either in the gauge cluster or another wiring issue.

 

From what I have seen there only appears to be one main ground. It’s on the side of the engine. I know that one is on there. Does anyone know where the fuse box in the engine bag grounds to?