Can the stock trd 4x4 off road package suspension be adjsuted for height?

So whats the right way to do it?? Im I to understand that everyone that lifted a truck to fit bigger tires is doing it wrong?

 

I did NOT write that post…

Something got lost in translation there.

 

It all depends on how the lift is accomplished. A body lift will clear slightly larger tires, but isn't recommended.

A much larger lift, in the 6 to 12 inch range that replaces the cross members under the front end and lower the attachment points of the lower control arm, will allow you to clear larger tires.

But if you just want to do a 1 to 4in suspension lift, the right way to do it is by choosing wheels with the proper offset, an upper control arm with built in caster, getting lucky with your alignment, and depending on how large you go, doing a body mount chop, modifying the plastics inside the front bumper, and possibly hammering the pinch weld flat in the back of the wheel well.

Some people get lucky and don't have to do anything in order to fit 35s. Others have to cut and trim and hammer everything. There is an entire thread on this forum of people fitting 37s with minor cutting with stock height to 4in of lift.

 

Alright op. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and recommend the bilstein 5100 adjustable front shocks. Inexpensive. CAN be a diy with some simple tools. Adjustable (when not on the truck) from basically stock height to about 2 in lift. And superior to what you are currently running.
You can always tweak, add shims, or spend more later but it will give you some options in the mean time. Also i don't get the impression you are going to be doing any serious off roading.
When looking at wheels look for offsets in the 20-30 range. This is the sweet spot with out trucks to get the best clearance when upping tire size and avoiding the hit a bump and tire rub scenario described above.
And with lifts under 2.5 inches you don't necessarily need to replace the UCAs.

 

Ive looked at that a bit. I dont want to fool with trimming etc.

So to do it properly (1-3 inches) would require swapping the UCAs and shocks. Would anyother parts have to be swapped/moved? Trying to get an idea of price wise for a very mild lift. Just enough to fit the tires but not large enough to have tons of empty space in the wheel wells

 

Bump stop spacers. Any spacer level/lift worth buying will have bump stop spacers included to keep the shock from bottoming out, and extra clearance for bigger tires. They are also available separately if piecing together coilover shims, or fancy coilovers. Been awhile but had a set of Bilstein 6112, came with bump stop spacer. The LT kit on my truck has bump stop spacers also.

 

Along with new upper control arms or instead of upper control arms?

 

They also make bump stop extensions to help offset the increased suspension travel. Lots of meat will fit in the wheel well. Tires rub when the wheels are turned and many times only at close to max. Therefore in order for this to occur, while possible would require you to hit a substantial bump hard enough to offset the suspension lift while your wheels are turned pretty significantly to one side or the other. Even then the first place people gets 'rubs' are generally on wheel well plastics. That's assuming you havnt chosen a 'bro dozer' negative offset in which case you might contact your fender.

 

The most I would want as far as offset is a little meat showing...enough where it isnt flush with the fender but not enough to use it as a coaster...its just not my thing

 

Depends on lift height if needed, and that can vary truck to truck. Look at the lifts your interested in and read through the instructions if you have time to help make a decision.

 

I have 34s on my 6112 setup. According to your logic, they should fit a stock truck with zero mods and have no rubbing. Give it a shot.

 

Yeah not serious off roading...I wouldnt mind doing some very milding stuff (taking it one the beach, etc). The main reason I wanted 4x4 vs 2wd wasnt to rock climb, I just wanted to have it if I needed it (been stuck once in a nissan truck in my back yard while moving, almost got my dads truck stuck at my buddies house when he lived in BF egypt...)

 

I never said they would fit with zero mods on a stock truck. What I ACTUALLY said was that if your tires don't fit at STOCK RIDE HEIGHT then they won't fit with a lift.

No mods would mean no cutting, no hammering, no aftermarket wheels, etc. I clearly explained that most, if not all, of those would be necessary.

Once again, people are arguing against things I never said. That's called a strawman fallacy just to let you know.

Here. A video that clearly explains and shows exactly what I am talking about and why a suspension lift has nothing to do with clearing larger tires..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33VewJFda1Q

 

If he shimmed out the top of the coil over creating more space at full compression, that allows clearance of a larger tire without a mall crawler lift. He is also using factory bumpstops with aftermarket suspension which is probably a bad idea. He addresses and dismisses this in the video saying why would you change the bump stop - well if you want to trade some of that gained travel for useful clearance - that’s what you do.

Clearance is generally a greater challenge in our trucks than travel. I’ve bashed my tow hooks and bumpers plenty, haven’t once not been able to get somewhere due to lack of traction.

Anyone that understands geometry can see how this works.

 

Looks like lots of good info I need to digest...

So, in refernce to the UCAs your were talking about, where do they fit in the context of this video; and how would the UCA affect the gap in the wheel well (ie, say I was going from 275/65/r18s (33.1 tall, 10.8 wide on say an 18x9 or 18x9.5 rim vs a 295/70/r18 34.3 tall/11.6 wide on the same rime) would the wheel wells still have the same gap as they do with the stock rims because of the way the UCA needs to be adjusted due to wheel travel?

 

A shim on top of the coil over would not limit compression unless it was a VERY large shim. And you are still more likely to hit the bump stops than bottom out the coil over anyway. Either way, it isn't the lift making the clearance. It is limiting the travel of the wheel that is making the clearance. And in order to fit a 35 I suspect you would have to limit the up-travel of the wheel to the point where you are pretty much riding on the bump stops.

 

You’re right about it not limiting compression, it just increases the distance from the wheel to the body once fully compressed.

If you don’t hit the bump stop before you bottom out the coil over you get this and I’ve heard it’s not good for clearance or travel -

 

So here is some reference:
Stock 18, stock size tire vs 17in wheel slightly larger tire adds 12 rev/mile
Here's the real life before and after including a 2in lift in the front and 1in shackle in the rear:
The wheels are 8.5 inches wide, have a +25 offset and here is the 'poke'

 

Did you have any rubbing or anything??

 

Can't speak for @Pillslinger but I have smaller tires on wheels with the same offset and I had to remove the little splash guard/air dam under the front bumper and also have rub when reversing while turning hard on the mud flaps. Looking at his pics you can see the splash guard and mud flaps have been removed, so I'd say "yes" there was rubbing.

Point is, you have to pay to play. If you want a bigger tire (33.4" or more) with a little poke (+25 offset wheels as pictured by @Pillslinger ) you have to trim/adjust the wheel well liner. That is the price you will have to pay to modify it in such a way. There is almost no work around. If you go with a tire that is only 33.19" like the 275/70R18 Nitto Ridgegrappler you MIGHT not rub badly on stock suspension with a +25 offset wheel. You'll still have to pull the front splash/dam piece. I specifically name that tire, rather than that size because I have Falkens in that size and I rubbed way more than the guy with Nittos on the same wheels. Turns out the size on the side of the tire is just a ballpark and all manufacturers are not measuring equally.

 

Spot on @GODZILLA . I actually anticipated the rub and did a few things to prevent it before I even mounted the wheel/tire setup. I knew i was going to have my alignment tech try for more caster to keep the tires away from the cab mount. (I didnt want to deal with a BMC) I pulled the air dams, then removed the lower screws/bolts on the front of the fender liner near where the air dams had been. You can muscle the fender liner forward another 3/4 inch and simply drill a new hole for the mounting screw and reinstall the (2 i think?) bolts. This was enough to clear when I got the tires mounted. The mud flaps had to go when i installed the fender flares they cleared fine with the tire setup. Eventually I added bumper shims for another 1/2 inch or so just for insurance.
Pulling the air dams and moving the fender liner was really all that would have been needed That process took about 30 minutes and made no permanent modifications.

 

No settings on any of the OEM suspensions I know of, but there are kits that will give you the lift you want. Simplest would be spacer that would go between the strut mount and body up front and shackles for the rear springs.

 

Honestly removing splash guards, airdam, bmc and pinch weld are very minor mods todo. I personally think a 35” tire/17”/18”wheel on the tundra looks almost perfect.

 

Is what necessary? 35s? Well technically none of what we do is necessary lol. To me the slightly better taller tire aids in rolling over things off-roading and clearance. But to each their own. Clearly I went in a different direction as far if its necessary lol. Those mods would be necessary to clear 35s in my opinion but also depends on other factors.

 

Would there still be travel issues that others have mentioned?? Other have said without serious mods that there would be travel issues, and between contradictory videos/write ups I think Im still lost. I want to make sure that whatever I get doesnt cause issues down the road with excessively wearing out other suspension/steering parts and cause issues with tire travel should I do some light to medium off roading