Power Mirror Switch Illumination

Lol i used to have a dog that knew how to roll the windows down too. Now i have a cap and keep them in the bed, happy medium, they have their own windows back there and I can close or open the window to the bed.

 

I know how you feel. Luckily, I can back in at an angle to get my truck on my half of the garage. The parking lot at work can be worse.

 

Nice work @TSands83. Great explanation.
I dug deep into this a year ago and was in communication working with kTJO. I looked at the diagrams and felt it was too good to be true since the switch was can bus. I mentioned to her that it didn’t seem like it would be easy and I was definitely surprised when she said she had come out with a switch.

The final straw that made me give up on the project was when I realized 200 series land cruisers have the 10 pin switch and we are 8. I knew something odd was up. I believe 1794s and platinums are the only vehicles in Toyota’s lineup that use can bus for the mirrors

 

Hmm, upon further inspection of this 28-pin Toyota switch from KTJO, I would be a bit hesitant to plug this directly in to the 10-pin connector and run mirror motor current directly through this switch. The circuits imbedded in the PCBs are very delicate and there's a QFP48 microprocessor as well as 2 SSOP36 SMD IC chips. Obviously there's more than meets the eye here. I really wish I had a pinout or diagram of this switch and the vehicle it was intended for. I think that the 28 to 10 pin harness that KTJO was haphazard at best. Definitely a lot different than circuitry in my old 93 Supra used to be. But hey, I'm no expert or engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express.
I am curious since others have mentioned KTJO, if this switch has ever worked for anyone? If so, for how long?

 

Wouldn't it be easier to wire up a little LED light right above it? You know like the ones in the strips or the little pinhole type.

 

Glad I have no need to deal with this as I am the only driver. The only time I have adjust the mirrors is after I clean the glass. I drove my neighbors Prius at night once and switch is back-lit. If a Prius is then why not trucks?

 

Yeah, it would be easier. It's been done here:
https://www.tundras.com/posts/57695/
And here:
https://www.tundras.com/posts/1324923/
Not really my style. The point here is to get a factory switch illuminated the way it should've been in the first place. Toyota went through all of the effort to incorporate CAN bus but overlooked a basic feature offered on practically every vehicle out today. All of the other switches around it are illuminated why not this one? When I give up, then I'll consider the other lighting methods or just live with it like everyone else. One of the things I miss the most about my 2011 Ram 1500 Sport was that EVERY switch was illuminated...what I don't miss were the problems it had.

 

I think the best solution(although not an easy one) is to separate the current switch and replace the pad with a translucent one and add tiny blue LEDs inside. There’s a couple posts on it over on tundra talk. Looks factory and does the job, plus you don’t have to hack the can bus wiring.

One con to this in addition to it not being completely OEM is that the mirror fold button won’t be lit.

 

Do you have a link?

 

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/illuminated-mirror-switch-project.621346/

Here’s one. let me see if I can find the other thread

 

Too bad the pictures are gone.

 

Well, good news for the folks with the 10 pin J130 connector (non-CAN bus)...it appears that the fully illuminated mirror switch that I got from KTJO 4X4 is indeed compatible for your application. I found these diagrams for the 12-18 Toyota Auris that uses the 28 pin switch.

Corolla/Auris Remote Control Mirror (w/ Automatic Retractable Mirror) Diagram


Corolla/Auris Illumination Diagram


Corolla/Auris E17 Outer Mirror Switch Connector


Corolla/Auris Outer Mirror Switch Inspection
(There were errors in the repair manual where they duplicated the w/o auto retract version. I made the corrections.)


So, this is how the 10 to 28 pin adapter harness looks

 

As suspected, the diagrams definitely confirm that the fully illuminated KTJO 4X4 switch is not compatible with the 8 pin CAN setup on the Platinum/1794 without some sort of interface. I still haven't heard back from KTJO 4X4 yet.
I considered fabricating a flexible PCB for the LEDs and kitbashing the buttons. The larger button could be swapped and I could put 2 LEDS under that. However, the 2 smaller buttons are completely different in construction and there's no clearance under them to mount any LEDs. The mirror select switch contacts are positioned differently and the retract button mechanism is completely different. Even hacking off the front of the housings and swapping them wouldn't work. At best, I would end up with a lower half illuminated switch or a Franken-switch. Nope.
To be continued...

 

Wish there was a illuminated Non-power fold switch.

 

Update: I just got an email from Katie at KTJO 4X4. She's looking into it.

 

@dittothat How far did you get with KTJO?
I got another email from her yesterday. Something's not right. It can't be this simple.

 

I got to the connector phase so you’ve already made it farther than I did.
But I agree with you and have my doubts it’s that easy.

edit: looking at it, that diagram doesn’t work. Maybe it would fold our mirrors, but all the adjustments to the mirrors are now missing. Left, right, up, down

 

I'm reviewing Katie's recommended pinout...

In trying to reverse engineer the original 8pin J131 switch and compare the functions of the other switches (10pin J130 and 28pin E17)....

1st off, pins J131 pins 5-7 are empty, so pinning wires there without adding wires on the harness side would be pointless.


This is what I have so far, based off of the J131 switch inspection sheet. BUT, when I look at the BCM inspection sheet, the voltage conditions in J131 pins 1 and 3 seem opposite to me. I will need to change this diagram I made. There might be some 2 way communication going on here. Again, this is not official. I'll verify the switch operation with a DMM. I'm hoping that these aren't multiplexing signals as I don't have an oscilloscope.

As I mentioned before, J131 pins 1-3 are BCM communication channels. J131 utilizes M+ (pin 1) differently than J130 and E17 do. If E17 was connected...when you press, down or right that would introduce power to to J131-1 M+ and short out the BCM, pressing up or left, would ground it.

J131-2 (E1) is not a chassis ground; it's a return channel to the BCM. Best to leave J130-7/E17-10,23 off of it.

Chassis ground is only on J131-4, so J130-7/E17-10,23 should probably be exclusive to this pin.

That leaves out HL (J130-5/E17-17), HR (J130-2/E17-14), VL (J130-4/E17-25), and VR (J130-3/E17-24). How is the BCM to interpret up, down, left, and right signals for each mirror if there's no provision for those?

J130 and E17 use M+, in conjuction with HL, HR, VL, and VR...switching polarity between up/left and down right. J131 uses pin 3 M+ for all directions, but changes resistance 100 Ω up, 470 Ω down, 800 Ω left, and 250 Ω right. J131 uses pin 1 MSW to determine mirror selection...100 Ω left, <1 Ω right, and 10 kΩ off. Some sort of interface will be needed to convert J130-6/E17-4,7 M+, J130-5/E17-17 HL, J130-2/E17-14 HR, J130-4/E17-25 VL, and J130-3/E17-24 VR into a usable J131-1 MSW, J131-2 E, and J131-3M+ signals.

For the mirror retract function, only J131-8 MF (J130-10/E17-6) is used. The BCM supplies 11-14V from J3-6 to J131-8. When retract is on, the circuit is completed to j131-4 (J130-7/E17-10) chassis ground.
But there's more to it than that...when retract is off, the polarity in the switch is reversed. A diode would need to be used on J131-8 MF (J130-10/E17-6) or it would short out the BCM. Of course, a 4pin relay could be used with MF and MR activating the relay, and leads to J131-8 and J131-4 being switched, but I think a diode would still be needed or the mirrors would never return to driving position.

If she's talking about adding the fused constant power red wire to J131-6 on the harness side and connect E17-1 B to it...that's fine.

So, we still haven't addressed J130-1/E17-3 ILL+. THE WHOLE REASON FOR THIS SWITCH IN THE FIRST PLACE! Here's my thought...splice J50-1 (cargo light switch) to add a wire to J131-5 and connect J130-1/E17-3 to it.

In conclusion, here's what would need to be done...

- J131-4 E2 to J130-7/E17-10,23 E/GND/ILL-.
- J131-8 MF to J130-10/E17-6 MF/FL with a diode and remove J130-9/E17-16 MR entirely OR connect J130-10/E17-6 MF, J130-9/E17-16 MR, J131-8 MF and J131-4 E2 to a relay with a diode.
- Add the fused constant power red wire (25A DR/LCK[BAT]) to J131-6 on the harness side and connect E17-1 B to it.
- Splice J50-1 (ILL+, cargo light switch) to add a wire to J131-5 and connect J130-1/E17-3 ILL+ to it.
- Add a fused switched power wire (7.5A ACC) to J131-7 on the harness side and connect J130-8/E17-11,21 B/IGB1/ACC to it.
- An interface will be needed to convert J130-6/E17-4,7 M+, J130-5/E17-17 HL, J130-2/E17-14 HR, J130-4/E17-25 VL, and J130-3/E17-24 VR into a usable J131-1 MSW, J131-2 E, and J131-3M+ signals.

 

Sorry everyone. I had to put this project on the back burner. I'll resume, if nobody else does, when I get back in September.

To be continued...

 

Love to revive an old thread…OP have you dove back into this one yet?

I have recently been looking into this for my 2013. I do not have power folding mirrors.

I would like to see if I can get this illuminated control switch from AliExpress to replace my OEM. Nothing wrong with the OEM just would like it to be illuminated light the rest of the dash. Problem is the connectors do not appear to be the same.
Here are a few photos of the Ali version.

And here is my current switch


I am wondering if there is a harness of sorts that exists or one can build to make this new one light up?

maybe @Jeff_5_7 can shed a bit of light?

Edit : AliExpress link

US $15.68 15％ Off | Original Side View Mirror Control Switch For Toyota Avensis 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 84872-05020
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPoYRaW

 

I did a fair amount of digging and testing. I have a switch from an overseas “Corolla” with the right colors. Got everything wired up and installed and tested - It doesn’t have the “oomph” to consistently operate. It will only partially control the mirrors and then it trips out.

The issue is those illuminated switches are their own ECU and so they don’t operate the same way as the mirrors in our trucks are set up for.

 

Unfortunately not the info I wanted to hear but I appreciate you sharing experiences. What year truck did you have when you were testing? Folding mirrors at the time? Or just trying for light and mirror controls like me?

 

My 2021. Folding, but the issue was more related to the mirror adjustment than the fold

 

Hey just checking in to see if there was a resolution to your project. You provided a wealth of information here. I’m using it to see if I can make my mirrors auto fold/unfold when using my key fob to lock the truck. But I’d love to hear if you or anyone else ever got the mirror switch backlit. Is there an aftermarket product out for it now? Any additional follow up would be awesome!

I see you are in OKC too. Wonder if I’ve seen you around or in our local fb group.

 

So all of this was just for the illumination of the switch and nothing at all for the auto fold during power on/off?

Bummer, I want to be able to fold/unfold with the key and a master switch to by pass the auto (for working on the truck, on the trail jumpin in and out while spotting, etc.)

 

DPDT relay and a switch and you can make it happen.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rainmans-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-12#post-2238960

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rainmans-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-25#post-3083849

 

I found some aftermarket interphases, retrofits, even YouTube diy's for auto power folding mirrors. Just not applicable to the Platinums and 1794's that come from the factory with memory, power folding, auto dimming, puddle lights, blind spot monitoring, etc. which is what I have on my 2014 Platinum. A lot of setups have a Y adapter that goes between the OE switch and the OE harness that will not work the same on Platinum's and 1794's because they are multiplexed'. I was able to use an eBay interphase meant for a 13 and older cutting off the Y harness it came with and wired it between the memory mirror module (ecu) in the drivers door and mirror itself. Not sure why there isn't an interphase for it already because a simple Y adapter would take care of all but the trigger wire. Arguable a Y harness could be made for that trigger wire as well going between the door lock in that same drivers door, making it 100% plug and play, installed by anyone who can remove a door panel in less time it takes to get the door panel off.

There are a lot of people here who do a really good job writing up DIY's and giving step by step instructions that can probably do it way faster than I ever could and posting it in the right place for people to find. So if someone that is good with those kinds of write ups wants to put something together, I can provide all the information and take some pics and video and answer any questions to the best of my ability. As far as I know, this is only for 2.5 Gen Platinum's and 1794's that come from the factory with power folding memory mirrors that want to have them auto fold and unfold when locking and unlocking using your key fob. If you have any doubt, behind your mirror switch will only have 5 wires where every other application will have more than that.

 

Interesting, I have a Platinum and the reading I am doing is what turned me away, I have not had it for the past 6 years and most likely don't need it but the want... is there!

I would not mind taking a crack at what you are describing. Once I get it and understand I should be able to do something with it... if I can before my surgery

 

This is how I did the auto folding mirrors for my 2014 Platinum using eBay item number:255202906448.

100% of the install is in the drivers door using positaps and some butt connectors.
Everything but the trigger wire(s) will connect to wires coming from the smaller of the 2 connectors from the drivers door ecu.
There are 2 positive input wires, one for locking and one for unlocking. I only connected the locking input wire. This allows the mirrors to fold on lock and unfold with the ignition switch. The wire(s) to be tapped can be found on the factory connector on the inside of the drivers door panel just opposite of the exterior door handle pull.

I used Positaps for connections to wires from the smaller plug from the drivers door ecu for the following:
Batt 12v constant to Red Pin 3
Ign switched 12v to Yellow Pin 4
Ground to White/Black Pin 9

The only wire(s) Positaped not at the same connector:
Pos Lock Trigger to White (bigger gauge) wire from the power door lock
Pos unlock Trigger not connected

The following factory 4 factory wires coming from the smaller plug from the drivers door ecu, will need to be cut:
Cut Pink Pin 1 (MR - LH Mirror)
Cut Light Green Pin 5 (MR - RH Mirror)
Connect together the Pink and Light Green wires leading back to the ECU
Connect together the Pink and Light Green wires leading to the mirrors
Cut Black Pin 2 (MF - LH Mirror)
Cut Brown Pin 6 (MF - RH Mirror)
Connect together the Black and Brown wires leading back to the ECU
Connect together the Black and Brown wires leading to the mirrors

The remaining 4 wires from the aftermarket harness attach to the other side of the 4 butt connectors connecting to the cut factory wires at the same smaller plug coming from the drivers door ecu:
Pink (cut from the Y harness thats setup to plug into the 07-13 tundra mirror switch) to Pink and Light Green (MR) wires leading back to the ECU
Orange (cut from the Y harness thats setup to plug into the 07-13 tundra mirror switch) to Black and Brown (MF) wires leading back to the ECU
Green (cut from the Y harness thats setup to plug into the 07-13 tundra mirror connector) to Pink and Light Green (MR) wires leading to the mirrors
Blue (cut from the Y harness thats setup to plug into the 07-13 tundra mirror connector) to Black and Brown (MF) wires leading to the mirrors

If you decide to try it and need more details let me know.

 

If you decide to do it, you'll see why I wonder why there isn't a vendor who makes an easy diy setup using a Y harness.