Instructions for custom tuning the truck with HPTuners.

@ViktorG what happened to your videos? They're all gone. Can't find them on Youtube either.

 

https://www.youtube.com/user/Vikgerasim/videos

 

All of his HP Tuner how to videos are gone like the 4Lo mod, AIP, etc.

 

Then he either made them private or deleted them as he was probably going to make them a part of his tuning service would be my guess.

 

Do you have any questions about adjusting those? They're all pretty straight forward to adjust.

 

I’m good now. I wanted to redo my 4Lo mod but couldn’t remember where it was. Instead of max across the board I tapered it down as RPMs got over 4000. Trying to prevent myself from breaking diff parts for now

 

I said fuck it and maxed everything out for 4lo, 1st, reverse, and AIP (I think that was all the limiters). I figured better to have the option to destroy everything in the event that's somehow required than not

 

Guys can anyone help me out. i see in my vcm scanner that my target afr is 12.2 but i want to go richer because im blending 10% methanol with my fuel. So i assume i must target a richer afr like 12.0. With 100% gasoline i like 12.5-12.7 so to compensate for the 10% of methanol i want to go a little richer at wot. Do you know where exactly is my target afr or lambda on the hptuner software with the tundra file? .. I have this tune that i paid for to a local tuner (and that is why my target afr at wot is 12.2). But i want to start learning how to adjust my tune myself. Any help will be much appretiated.

 

Read this thread on the hptuners forum, I started the same process as earlier this year and the last page has some of my questions and answers which are similar to yours, I'd read the whole thread though: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?81934-Toyota-Repository/page7

To answer your question directly though (and I'm no expert, so take what I say with a grain of salt) you want to modify your power enrichment (PE) EQ ratio. This is the multiplier (or divider if you will) that modifies the stoichiometric ratio after a certain throttle range. It's found under Engine -> Fuel -> Power Enrich -> EQ Ratio:


The stoichiometric ratio is funder under Fuel -> General and the default value is 14.60 which is supposed to be what the truck targets during normal driving.

If you do not have an external/stand alone AFR gauge though, you will need to get that. I forget how rich the stock ones can read, I think it might be 12.2 like you're seeing. The truck (and subsequently the tune) can only read within a certain range, so even though it says 12.2 if that is the floor the sensor can read to, the truck may actually be dumping more fuel and it just can't tell. When you're running richer values, the truck is effectively blindly dumping fuel and you need an external sensor to know what it's doing and adjust the tune to dial it in since the data that VCM or the OBD2 is putting out is limited.

For instance, my original TRD tune would run in the 9:1 range at WOT but the truck as far as it was concerned was running at like 12:1 even though it was dumping WAY more fuel in than that. So if you don't have an AFR gauge, install one of those before tweaking with the tune otherwise you won't know what's really happening.

 

Thank you for your response, in deed i see its the PE tables. I see now why my tune targets for 12.23 its because its 1,201 from 4k to 6k rpms. However, i was thinking, what if instead of changing power enrichment tables i just change my Stoich ratio from 14.7 to 13.88 . Will that make my target afr read richer right? or am i mistaken? im talking about adjusting this. But i certainly don't know if this value on the tune actually has an effect on things or it is just a marker. What do you think ? that way with my current PE and MAF table adjustments mixture will be richer by just changing the global stoichiometry of the mixture.

 

Changing the general stoich should make it richer across the board, including at idle and cruise and everywhere. If you're blending methanol in so your fuel is always modified, seems logical to me to change that value.

On the plus side since you're richening it out there's less chance to screw anything up. Try changing it to like 14.5 or lower and see what happens. The stock setting is 14.6 but all my gauges say 14.7 or that the truck is targeting 14.69 so I don't know if that's "close enough to 14.6" or if there's other modifiers happening. I would sneak up and see how much change in that setting is actually reflected in reality.

 

I changed the general stoich but it "seems" like it affected nothing. i changed it to 13.88 and my mixture is still the same as before. I have to then add more fuel in the PE tables and maybe increase the values on the maf table to pull more fuel ?. BTw there is something bothering me is that i did some pulls today with 100% pump gas and i heard the truck pinging. So i added 5 liters of methanol to 95 liters of pump gas. However i would like to see in the log where exactly im detonating, but cant figure out where. Do you know where or how you can see exactly into which point im getting knock retard using my log file? I open the scanner and i have the channels and everything but i can't find where is the table where i see the exact point of detonation, so i can then pull 1 or 2 degress to prevent that.

 

Hi Guys im struggling to tweak my tune to leave it knock free. I have poor octane fuel in my country so im blending it with 5% methanol. Seems alright but i want to know how or where im able to see the amount of knock retard im getting with my current tune. Can anybody give me a hand?

Guys whats the best way to tune my cams without a dyno?.

 

The channels I have that VictorG gave me that look at knock are: "Knock Feedback" and "Knock Correct Learn", additionally "Actual Spark" and "Timing Advance (SAE)". Knock feedback should always be at -3.0deg to signify no knock retard is occurring---there is some information on the very last post of the Toyota Repository thread linked above.

In regards to the general stoich not changing anything, I have no idea. The PE table only comes into play if your throttle is open past the specified position. I would think you could tweak the MAF tables to make the truck think it was moving more air than it actually is, and thus inject more fuel. Though again, I am a novice with HPT. I suggest posting on the HPT Toyota Repository thread, SlowNStock is very responsive and knows a tremendous amount.

 

I went wheeling this past weekend and found out that I'm still having the 4Lo delete issue.

I have these guys maxed out:




Now I'm starting to think I need to adjust Engine > Electronic Throttle > Torque Based: High Load
Based on this OEM mapping the throttle is only at 6.2 degrees at 400rpms - thinking of modifying the 400rpm row to match the 2000 or 2400rpm row.
Have you played with this setting? If so, what were the effects?

 

I maxed out everything EXCEPT the "Torque Based" rows--so gear based, air fault (not that that changes what you need) and Fwd/Rev rows.



How I read the low load/high load is at a certain rpm you request so much torque and what amount of throttle angle will it give to provide that torque. I may be totally wrong, but it reads to me more like a throttle sensitivity setting since if you go to 400rpm and request 295ft-lbf or more of torque it will fully open the throttle.

Some big caveats here: first, I haven't messed with those tables. Second, I do nowhere what you do and the only time I use low range is when there's some random rocks to get to a spot to take my RCs. And third, I haven't been in a position of needing full throttle in low range since I got HPTs (with my tune or with Viktor's that I currently run). So everything I'm saying is pure speculation. If you maxed out all the other limits (gear based, 1st gear fwd, 1st gear 4wd low) then you're beyond my abilities!

 

Thanks for the info brotha! Guess I'm gonna have to mess with it.

 

I've been meaning to catalog some further tuning things I've discovered and am incorporating. Some of this is regurgitated or revised from previous things in this thread. I am not a tuner, just a dude in a garage that tries to read. I had Viktor make a tune for my Tundra over a year ago, and late last year I upgraded my supercharger and thanks to help from Viktor and people on the HPT forum I've been able to make my own tune. This is all information that's available, but may be tedious to find. I left out some of the secret sauce things that I learned from Viktor (and don't understand), but this covers about 90% of the changes I've done to my truck and is hopefully a good starting place to understand and tweak on your own truck, or see the possibilities (and limits) of HPT for the 2nd gen Tundra. There are multiple other tabs that I do not show because I didn't change anything in those or don't understand what those tabs mean. This is not a list of the potentials of HPT, just the list of things I've done.

Engine

Engine - Airflow - General - MAF Airflow vs Voltage

This tells the computer how much airflow there is at a certain voltage. Higher voltage is more air. If you change the intake tube diameter then this value changes. Additionally, if you have long term fuel trims that are out of wack you want to change this. The long term fuel trims can be monitored on lots of devices and data logged in HPT.



If your fuel trim is positive (red) then the truck is adding fuel to be at stoichiometric. I read somewhere the maximum the truck can adjust the fuel trim is 25%, so in my case I was nearly maxing out the allowable range of the truck to correct the MAF effectively. To fix this I matched the MAF voltage with each of those rpm ranges, which generally can be done in the datalogging by looking at MAF voltage and rpm. I then took the MAF voltage ranges I saw that roughly correlated with the rpm range and multiplied them by the corresponding amount--ie I multiplied 0.63 through 1.56 or whatever by 1.21, and so on. To be fair I haven't data logged since then, but using my OBD2 monitor on my phone my long term fuel trims are all sub 5% and usually sub 2%, so the MAF voltage and airflow is very close to what the truck expects and only needs minimal compensation.



Engine - Airflow - Electronic Throttle - Limits

All of the limit categories have everything set to 86deg. The "Low Load" category is a bit weird, but everything above 0ft-lb requested is maxed out. I'm not sure what the negative values mean on the X axis...





Engine - Fuel - General

This only applies to different injectors, but there is the injector constant which should be scaled based on injector displacement from the value your tune comes with and there is Offset vs Voltage, which is the dead time time shown on the injector sheet. The dead time is pressure dependent, the stock pressure is 43.5psi, and the dead time input matched whatever my sheet came with, I assume it's milliseconds.

The injector constant for the Green TRD 535cc injectors is 0.098381, my new injectors are 715cc so scaling that is 535/715 * 0.098381 = 0.073613. The larger the injector, the smaller the constant. The constant tells the truck effectively how much fuel is flowing for a set period of time.



The dead time of the Green TRD 535cc injectors:



The dead time of the Fuel Injector Development (Prospeed) 725 (really 715cc) injectors. Notice that the X axis values are different between the two injectors, because the dead time values provided from FID are different than the Green injector values. I changed the X axis to match exactly what the new dead time provided shown and figured the truck can interpolate or do whatever to figure out the rest, instead of me trying to do that to match the Green injector voltage values.



Additionally, injector duty cycle can be measured and data logged with one of the "Math" equations:



If your duty cycle is routinely above 80% it's a rule of thumb to upgrade.

Engine - Fuel - Power Enrichment

Power enrichment is the truck dumping extra fuel to richen out past stoichiometric past a certain throttle angle. Past a certain point the truck's stock air fuel ratio sensors will no longer be able to measure how rich the truck is, but you can set the power enrichment so it will keep going. This is why in high performance applications it is critical to have an aftermarket AFR gauge because past 12:1 or so the truck and you are blind to how much fuel is actually being injected. The truck has assumptions and targets it is shooting for, which is determined by this tab, but that should be cross referenced with an AFR gauge.

The enable and disable throttle are degree of throttle angle (like the limits above). There is an enable and disable limit, presumably they're not set the same so if your foot is hovering at that angle it's not kicking in and out. There are some delay settings which I keep at 0, the TRD tune has delay at 131ms, again to presumably stop PE kicking in if the throttle angle goes up for a split second before falling. The actual Power Enrichment EQ Ratio is what sets the targeted (as best the truck knows) AFR, and is stoichiometric divided by the EQ ratio. So in my case at the high end I have 14.7/1.5 = 9.8 AFR. Very simple chart, it is not load or speed dependent, just purely rpm and throttle angle.

For some comparison, a stock 2014 has PE enable at 70deg, a TRD tune has it at 40deg, and I have it at 30deg because that's about the time I start getting into boost. There's no real hard facts for when it should engage, but the idea is more fuel and more power, and beyond that point more fuel is more cooling of the combustion chamber which is why the boosted trucks are much more aggressive about PE than a stock truck.



Engine - Fuel - Temperature Control

Component protection is meant to ramp up fuel in the event of high temperatures or knock. This can be ignored for a stock application. On a boosted vehicle usually this is turned off. There are two ways to turn it off, the "Component Prot Enrich" can just be switched to disabled, or EQ Ratio Base can all be set to 1. This will disable the component protection part for the cats, but will keep the spark retard fuel adjustments active.



Engine - Fuel - Cutoff, DFCO

This is the rev limiter.

Engine - Spark - Advance

I am still a huge noob at timing advance. The one thing I have done is there's spots on the Base/High Octane/Low Octane tables that seem a bit inconsistent so I've flatted those out (mostly at high rpm) where load goes up and sometimes the spark increases and then decreases, and isnt a nice curve. High Octane spark is the optimal "maximum" spark settings, and Low Octane spark is what the truck will reduce to if there's excessive knock occuring (like having low octane fuel). From my reading and what I employ is the low octane table is the same as the high octane table but reduced 5deg. Again, spark advance I know the least about but that's what I've read is a good starting place and how I'm setup.

In my data logging I look at knock retard, and wherever I see knock start popping up I go to that section of the high octane map and drop the spark advance by a degree or two, and slowly sneak up on it. There is way more to spark and getting perfection, but that is my limited messing with it.



Transmission

I'll preface this by saying I don't mess with the trans much, because it operates exactly how I want. But going into the things I've changed:

Trans - Shift Scheduling

If you are hitting the rev limiter on shifts, go into the shift scheduling for that gear change and at WOT decrease the shift rpm by 5%. I used to hit the rev limiter in the 2-3 shift, and after dropping pulley size again I was hitting the limiter in every single gear shift. A 5% drop at full throttle fixed everything. It isn't speeding the shift up, but it is initiating the shift earlier. The following picture is my 1-2 shift schedule, you can even see at 85% throttle the shift rpm is actually higher than at 100%, because at 85% I'm not revving faster than the trans can shift so I can let it rev out a bit more before initiating the shift. Why there are 4x 100% shift (and a 128%) I have no idea, so I just keep all of those the same.



Also the rpm is output rpm, not engine rpm, so the transmission gear affects the number. For what I'm doing, this doesn't matter, since it's just a % change.

These are all the categories I've modified the shifting on. Normal and Cold and their corresponding faults. I have NOT done this for tow haul because I never use/need tow haul.




Trans - Torque Converter - Lock Apply/Release

This is straight forward but one of the most powerful categories. All of these control when the torque converter locks up and releases, at what rpm and throttle %. Personally I have 4/5/6 all set extremely low, which means the torque converter is locked up essentially all of the time. Regardless what I'm towing or doing, the transmission always stays cold because heat is only generated when the converter unlocks.



What is interesting too, is the converter does not lock up in 2nd or 3rd unless the trans is in "Hot Mode" which only occurs when the engine is over 208 or the trans is over 257. I thought I had read the truck couldn't lock the converter below 4th, but that is incorrect--it's just that in stock form the truck is unable to lock the converter below 4th unless something is getting too hot. I have not messed with adjusting 2nd or 3rd gear lock up, I think 3rd gear lockup could be valuable but so far I haven't seen a need for it. Another thing you could do is set tow haul mode so the torque converter locks up in all gears. I assume it's setup this way so the truck can quickly get to 4th and use that normally as it's lowest gear and lock into that, but I know towing before up mountains on little highways where you're only doing 30mph, you're not in 4th and the trans temps are spiking--that's when it'd be nice to hit tow haul and have it effectively be a converter lockup switch.


Speedo

Speedo - Calibration

There's values for the tire diameter and the final drive and tcase, these seem to be for the ECU logic and they don't actually change your speedometer reading.

Speedo - Limiter

This is the speed limiter/governor, just set it really high and you're not limited.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And that is the bulk of what I've done for my tune. There's a couple other things I don't want to give away or don't understand enough to list, but that is about 90% of the tweaking. To reiterate there is a thread on HPT forum called Toyota Repository that has a lot of information too. There are lots of tuning companies that know way more than me, but for your guy in a garage wanting to tweak on their truck, either stock or boosted I think this gives you a lot of information and certainly enough to do a better tune than what the TRD tune was. Viktor and Fireman and a lot of the big tuning guys have left for the foreseeable future, so that's why I've been wanting to dump my powerpoint of tweaks onto here since there's not a lot of people to ask, and only basic information on this forum.

 

Ok two things. One you’re a mad man. Two this will need to be read on my computer with coffee in the morning lol

 

This is fantastic. Kudos @snivilous!
I’ll have to read this at least twice.

 

This is amazing! I love to learn what's going on. And to understand why I pay someone else to do this for me!

 

Perfect timing as I get paid tomorrow and I’m buying my tuning credits.

 

Very cool. I have been tuning my 02 camaro with HPtuners for years and just started diving into the tundra. This was some good useful information!

 

Thanks for the explanations @snivilous! I envy your ambition to dive in and figure this stuff out. If my tune is unlocked and I can make changes, does this mean I could rescale the MAF on my own relatively easy in the airflow/MAF section if I have the necessary info from some data logs? I’m wondering if there is a basic change I could apply across the board/RPM range based on the difference in intake tube diameter to get me in the ballpark and then fine tune it from there. Full disclosure I haven’t look at the related tables myself yet, so I don’t have any familiarity whatsoever.

 

Yes, I should've mentioned that. It should be a straight linear change across the board based on area. So 3.5" to 3.65" would be the ratio of R^2 -> 3.0626 vs 3.330625 -> 1.0875x increase in area, so you'd just multiply all MAF values by 1.0875. Then data log fuel trims and finely adjust from there, but straight scaling should be very accurate.

 

Poking around a bit this morning with the converter lock up tables. Is my thinking correct that if I raise the value on the converter release then it releases sooner and if I lower the value on the apply it locks up sooner?

What’s the flex apply//release table?

 

Wow! Great additional info! Thanks @snivilous I also have Viktor's tune and will eventually be installing headers I have and some day a SC.

I don't know if I'm brave enough to mess with my tune myself though.

 

Correct. The converter tables appear to be engine rpm, even though the description calls it output rpm (same verbiage used for the shift tables). The shift tables would make sense that it's based on actual transmission output speed (vehicle speed), and it'd make sense the converter is based on engine rpm since it's coupled to it. Plus the shift tables have values well over the engine rpm capability, and the converter tables at most are near redline.

I have no idea what the flex apply/release does. Maybe it adjusts the lockup table depending on TPS? Considering it only has values in stock form for 20% throttle and below, maybe it's purely for initial acceleration. I've never messed with it though.

 

That's what I thought. My plan is to play in the cruising and coast tables and at 0% throttle I want the converter to be released entirely below 2500 or something like that. Let the engine freewheel. Not for tow/haul, just regular. See if that does anything with mileage as some folks seem to think it might. I dunno. Lock up I'm probably going to mimic what you did and drop it lower in the RPM. I don't want it to low because it'll lug the engine and that's the opposite of what I'm trying to do.

Been playing with throttle angle to be somewhere between tow/haul (to sensitive) and stock (to dead). I was really surprised to see the normal throttle having really different numbers between each gears where as tow/haul was the same values all the way across through all gears. I'm debating changing the scaling on the normal to match the tow/haul as the tow/haul comes in quicker on the top end than the regular.

I've bumped spark up about 5% in the cruising range and added a degree from 4800-6000. Part throttle spark is where you can gain some mileage so I want to focus on that. Was going to try and do some logging but roads are wet so meh.

Looking at this file compared to my durango and it's stupid simple comparatively.

One thing I'm highly annoyed with and I don't know if it's this file or if my VCM updated on it's own but I can't write anything without being connected to the internet. Absolutely infuriating.

 

That's how it's been for me too. Need to have internet and the mpvi plugged in to even open the software, and then usually have to hotspot on my phone just to go out and flash the truck. Super annoying.