What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

So short back story. I’ve noticed slop in my shift lever and thought about doing the bushing replacement where the cable attaches to the lever. I read where some guys thought the lever play wasn’t from that so I put it on the back burner.

Well tonight I go to play hockey and as I’m shifting once it hits neutral the lever goes limp and won’t shift. Lever moves up and down but no shifting taking place. I’m stuck in neutral. I feared the cable broke but disassembly shows the bushing completely gone. I ziptied the end to hold the cable in place till bushing arrives.

 

What brand? I heard Felspro sucks, but I had good luck with Becks Arnley I believe was the brand.

 

Tried Felpro, those were the worst. Then OEM, then Mahle. At least with the Mahle ones only one side is leaking now so I don't have to pull both fuel rails.

 

Speaking of welds...those are some seriously shitty welds on your NEW crossmember

 

SAY CAR RAMROD! SAY CAR RAMROD!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X87X66b99sE

 

I thought so as well, lol.

 

Especially for the price they're asking!

 

"alpha, God, mustard, China".

 

Rattle canned the inner fenders flat black before heading to kempner. They were much lighter, and in some places had sandblasted through to some white. Very light coat after cleaning. Next time I wash down there I’ll bust out the beer box masks and do the chassis gloss, and the wheel wells that foam underbody spray.


Or, I may pull the springs and find out how much droop I can get. And can get some painting in tomorrow.

 

Fuel leaks are now fixed, but then it wouldnt rev past 3000. Found that the power wire for the MAF broke so I reconnected it. Now it bogs hard at barely any throttle and struggles to do even 20mph. Any ideas?

 

AS stupid as this will sound, disco battery and go have a couple beers.

 

Man if only. I've tried that, but still nothing. The worst part is that it doesn't even throw a CEL.

 

Have another MAF you can toss in?

 

PS - do you have any way to monitor air intake and fuel output readings?

 

Yep, I have the one off my truck and the one off of the junkyard truck. Just did a little more testing, and it will go back into limp mode(limited to 3k rpms) if I run it without the MAF plugged in. I have a scanner plugged in, and its showing increased airflow as I rev it in park. At idle it showed 1lb/min if I remember correctly. Also forgot to mention it revs just fine in park, just wont when in gear.

 

And there aren't any codes pending?

I have zero experience with SC setups, much less this one, so I'm throwing this out there to spitball ... have you tried a more mild tune on the Unichip? Is there a way to bypass the Unichip temporarily just to see if maybe it's not the funky link here?

 

No pending codes . I've got 2 tunes on the Unichip, the base tune and one made for the mods I have. Both have the same issue. Also the Unichip N/A tune I was running was completely fine, and I'm scared that there won't be anything running the 9th injector if I unplug it. It almost makes me think there are more wiring issues with the MAF considering It doesn't go full potato with it unplugged.

 

If it's the same no matter which MAF you put in, yeah, could be.

I haven't read back. Who built the harness, if applicable? Do you have a DMM? A wiring diagram so you can test continuity etc?

You've given a once-over on the throttle body assembly, cable and articulation looks good?

 

Yeah, the 3 plugs on the TB looked good. The harness came from unichip, and none of the connections look bad. Sadly I can't do anymore atm because its pouring rain again.

 

If it were me, as much as I like plugging away at unknowns and solving problems, I'd button it up and contact Unichip in the AM.

 

Front end delete complete. Hoping this will improve highway ride quality.

 

hover craft mod? sweet

 

Bluetoof

 

2" lift. Trying to diagnose driveline vibration when towing. I am thinking the weight of the trailer is changing the angle of driveshaft. Bad vibration around 65.

Already tried a carrier bearing drop but without any change. What else can I try with the DS? Any thoughts? So far, I have had it balanced. WIs it worth having the u-joints and carrier bearing replaced? Only 140k on the truck.
Considering a one-piece replacement DS.

 

Finally it runs! Went through the Unichip config, it all got changed when I updated the firmware. All is good now, truck rips.

 

@Outbound was it you chasing driveline vibes?

 

What lift on the rear? Others have had luck with angled shims under the rear leaf pack.

 

2-3" in rear. Is an angled shim on the leaf pack rotating the pinion angle?

 

Yeah. Never came up with a solution. Both myself and my mechanic spent alot of time trying almost everything. The only thing I haven't tried is a one piece drive shaft, which may or may not make a difference. I've given up, the vibration is only in a 5 - 10mph range and I'm selling the truck next month anyways.

 

I thought you gave it to your dad like 6 months ago?