Driveshaft Center support bearing

I need ☝️ and they got them anywhere from $10 to $100.
Which brand should I be looking for here?

 

Spicer.

 

Mark your driveshaft alignment.

 

You got it

 

Spicer. Went through 2 x SKF that failed within a couple miles. Purchased Spicer from Summit Racing and all has been well.

 

How often should they be changed or loved? What do you hear or feel when they go borke?

Almost 130k miles on mine and I haven't done anything to it yet. Thank you.

Sorry if

 

Vibration. Do them if you do u joints. And vice versa

 

also even when you put in a new carrier bearing, naturally it has what I’d call, a decent amount of “slop”
So unless it’s chunkin out or you can see visible missing rubber, it’s probably ok to rule out other issues first.

 

Damn. I hear the Tacoma guys saying SKF is the bees knees. I think it’s the same part for both Tacos and Tundras.

 

Hey @Beefnbread
This thread may be of interest to you if you haven't already read through it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/cor...ng-for-1st-gen-tundra-exact-toyota-oem.45266/
From my understanding DANA Spicer is the manufacturer of the Toyota OEM part just not in the Toyota branded box and for a fraction of the price. This is the one I purchased and installed on my 2006 4WD: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233401698226 (I know it say Tacoma but confirmed it was indeed the correct/identical part as the original) This post explains the difference between the two DANA Spicer part #s https://www.tundras.com/threads/cor...ra-exact-toyota-oem.45266/page-2#post-1558346
My truck has 224k miles and didn't really need a new one but did it anyway since it was easy enough to swap and not too expensive. Peace of mind for the next 200k+ miles.
Just curious to know what makes you think it is in need of replacement?
How many miles are on the truck?
If it was in need of replacement you would typically see wear to the rubber boots surrounding the bearing and may feel an increase/decrease of vibration in the driveline as your MPH changes. Here is a good video to help with diagnosing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwVVX3QLlkM
Grease your u-joints if they never have been since your ownership. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dHsqxEth0A (I know its an FJ but they are similar and will give you a good understanding if you don't already know.) I greased mine when I replace the center carrier bearing.
Another decent video that shows how to swap the center carrier bearing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X43U5L_GFSo
Hope you find this information helpful.

 

Thanks for the feedback. You posted some helpful stuff there. My truck is low mile’d for sure. You would think it wouldn’t need it at my mileage, but I’ve got that same slop as the guy in that last video you posted. A little concerned with my u-joints though as I feel a little clunkiness when I brake and the driveshaft settles at stop. Kinda lame because I just greased them not super long ago.

 

If the u-joints are bad you will feel slop in them when you have the driveshaft out to replace the center carrier bearing.
Here is a good video to help with diagnosing a bad u-joint: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOeBE-ylQw

The jolt when coming to a stop and/or accelerating from a stop is a known condition with the Tundras and other models that use the same drivetrain. Its recommended to add more grease to the slip yoke:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/jolt-when-stopping-at-a-light.60699/

 

Let me ask you one thing, it's potentially important.

When you greased your slip yolk... did you pump grease in a few times, then jump up and down on the bumper, then pump grease a few more times, then jump on the bumper, then remove the zerk to let the excess grease purge?

If you do this [double-pump + double-jump] method, if you've adequately lubed things, you'll get a couple-inch stream of grease out while popping of the zerk. If you didn't get any grease out when removing the zerk, that's probably why you're still getting the notorious clunk ... you're either not getting grease through the zerk, or you're not putting enough grease in and need another double-pump-double-jump.

 

Do you have that clunk sound when you stop and like someone rear ended you sometimes? I had that too all life of the truck. Now I'm worried if I need to do anything about it as well..

 

Not sure if you're asking me because you didn't quote anyone, but ...

Mine was actually when accelerating from a dead stop, and yes, almost like the person behind me bumped me as I was accelerating forward. Or like the rear brakes were releasing a half a second later than the front. I made a thread about this, and someone recommended greasing my driveline, that it's common on 4WD 1st gen trucks. 2WD doesn't have zerks on the driveline, and this clunk happens if the slip yolk is dry, and if it is, chances are everything else needs a lube while you're there.

But several people have described feeling it when coming to a complete stop, or accelerating from a complete stop.

 

Classic slip yoke issue.

 

The 2wd may not have zerks. But they don't have magically disappearing trans mount bolts.

 

YEP. <-- link

 

Mine is a 2WD (06 Dbl Cab) and does the same thing, "clunk" at stops. You mentioned a dry slip yoke could be the source. Is there a zerk to lube the slip yoke? Thanks!

 

If you're 1st gen '05/'06 (Sequoia adds '07) and 2WD this is strongly likely your problem, from my last reply. https://www.tundras.com/posts/2624452

 

Thanks! I'm actually 1st Gen Tundra (sons, when he gets license), 2nd Gen Sequoia (wife's) and 2.5 Gen Tundra (mine, in Sig). Appreciate the help!

 

If that TSB ends up solving your problem, let us know! Never know who your feedback may help later.

 

Will do. May be a little while before I can do repairs. Camping season for us and AC at home and RV decided to fail about the same time (South Texas). Besides, truck doesn't get driven much at the moment. But will definitely start process of pricing/acquiring parts. Mainly need it to be done before I hand the keys to my 17yo. son.

 

For us over here it's looking like HVC units on the house will be the killer this summer. We're already breaking the 100s this year which is nuts! Just a couple of years ago it was shocking to break the mid-90s.

Anyway, on that trans mount. I checked mine before realizing it's a 2WD only issue. the crossmember you need to check is about mid-cab. Slide under the truck with a flaslight, and you can literally look at the mount dead-on and try to push around the trans.

 

Mines a 2010 double cab long bed 2wd, I always figured it's because it's too long and lived with it.
I've read a while back about it and that someone tried kubing bunch of stuff and it was disappearing and then happening again little later.
You get this "crash from the rear" when you stopped and let go brakes little bit and truck settles or when you get green light and let go brakes and you get a clunk a second later.

 

My 4 bolts were loose. Put a ratchet with a deep 12mm on them and see if they're coming out. If they are loose, remove them, add blue loctite and reinstall.

 

It's been driving me crazy. I hope those parts in the box that just showed up takes care of it.

 

I learned to live with it, among other quirky things tundras have.. hopefully I don't lose a driveshaft on my way to work one day

 

Oh. I’ve never heard of that. Maybe I should consult you guys more often. I’ve worked on semi trucks a lot and when we grease, we just grease away like it’s whatever. So yeah, I didn’t do that.
According to what you said, I could just grease it again and see what happens, right? Obviously doing the double pump + double jump method.

 

It's just what was suggested to me, I'd never heard this before but it seemed to work.

Not dissimilar from sealed transmission fill on the '05-'06 trucks. Fill it up, bring it up to temp, let the extra overflow out.

There's literally nowhere for the grease to go on the slip yolk except around the splines over time. Fill it up, jump up and down to distribute. Repeat. Then pop off the zerk to release any excess air/pressure.

Just because my 30-something years of wrenching hasn't seen it doesn't mean I'm not about to do it when recommended, if it makes some semblance of sense.