Time to ask for help - Truck won't fire

Some Googling confirms that number I think I'm seeing there is legit for a 2uz-fe w/4x4:

 

Nicely Done!

 

Last post on it. Not saying Noah's won't fit, and could still be a good option.

This is what Toyota is showing for fitment the part number I think you may have. Sucks it got wiped off. I think your truck may be 1st in the list.

 

You 'da Man, Shifty!

 

The vin is not written to these vehicles. They’re older than that

 

Gawd damn. That is some mighty fine sleuthing. Are you a detective ha. I really appreaciate the leg work man. Shit.
So. Now we're thinking Noah's won't work, as it ends in a 61

 

No detective, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. Oh, and there was that couple of years doing digital forensics at work.

I suspect Noah's would probably still work. But none of us want to be the guy giving bad advice that causes a rift or smear on the forum.

So I'd just repeat: Call or visit your nearest dealership with your VIN number. Ask them to pull the part number and price for the correct Engine Control Module.

If anyone would know, they should. You don't need to buy from them, guys who do this for a living should be able to pull the part number in less than 60 seconds.

I found several used ECM on fleaBay with both part numbers. If the number matches Noah's, he's good people on here and in real life, give him a holler. If not, and its the other number ending in '40' or '41' (since both 40 and 41 are valid/interchangeable, per the fitment I pasted), I'd buy used from someone on fleaBay with 98%+ feedback rating.

 

I did a search on Noah's part# off his, and it still said it would fit 2001 tundra limited 4x4 gas. So I don't see why that won't work. Probably just some numbers they put on the ECM in 2000, and mine end in a 41, 2001, who knows what that difference might be.
I'll reach out to him.
Thanks for all your guys help! Hopefully this is, and hopefully it fixes the issue.

 

^^^
@Tundra2

According to the Electrical Wiring Diagram(EWD), the 00 and 01 did use the same part # connectors. However, there are some differences in pin number/functions(a few noted in red below). Whether that's a clear indication that @Tundra2 ECM will work or not work, I personally can not say emphatically but it's not looking good IMHO.

 

From what I've seen most Toyota part numbers have a logical format. Like, using this example: 89661-0C161

The 1st five numbers "89661" is the part category, like "electrical", "body", etc.
The 2nd five numbers "0C161" is used to define feature variations.​

What do I mean by "feature variations"? An example, when I was doing my wood grain upgrade...

84013-0C010 => Matte black dash center piece (with 3 climate control knobs, with 4WD buttons)
84013-0C310 => Wood grain dash center piece (with 3 climate control knobs, with 4WD buttons)
84013-0C350 => Wood grain dash center piece (with 3 climate control knobs, with 4WD buttons with the extra VSC button)​

Using that same logic, the difference between the two could be something relatively simple and chassis-only, like ....

89661-0C161 => ECU for 2UZ/4WD regular cab, with tow pkg
89661-0C141 => ECU for 2UZ/4WD access cab, without tow pkg​

The regular cab and access cab main differences would be small, like, roof wiring for example. In which case, the truck is going to start up, drivetrain is going to work fine, but you may see something stupid, like maybe the rear door-ajar switch doesn't work, or you gain/lack tow package lighting. (edit: these are bad examples, not sure ECU would have any say in those)

However, it's also possible it's something more significant, like...

89661-0C161 => 2UZ/4WD without VSC equipped with automatic transmission type B
89661-0C141 => 2UZ/4WD with VSC and equipped with automatic transmission type A​

In which case, your truck will probably start up, assuming both transmissions types used the same neutral safety switch setup (maybe?), but if your truck had VSC traction control, that may not work correctly, or the shift points may be slightly different if the auto trans types didn't match.

It's my opinion, and just my opinion, but I genuinely believe buying Noah's part is a cheap, valid way to test startup based on seeing your current ECU's PCB rot.

I think @BubbaW understands more about the vehicle chassis option details than me. Somewhere out there, someone has technical chassis type details for each part. Maybe some parts database has details for each part somewhere, like this? (these numbers are only an example, not reality)

89661-0C161 => 2UZFE; UCK40L-ARSLKA
89661-0C141 => 2UZFE; UCK30L-ARSLKA​

BUT WAIT ... I'm not going to delete all the crap above in case someone else finds this later. While I was looking for part/chassis numbers I just mentioned, I found this at Toyota's OEM parts website which suggests the only difference could be that ECU is California spec and the other isn't. Maybe you'll just gain/lose fuel economy!

 

Man, I have no idea where and how you guys get your information. But it's astounding. Thankyou so much guys! Incredible.
Maybe it would be worth while holding out on the right part#, buy once, cry once.

Again, thanks.
Amazing

 

I think I'd still buy Noah's part is your absolute best bang vs. buck, least risk to confirm the issue, using a known-working part.

Retail walk-in at dealership will set you back about $900. If you buy online from a dealership, expect around $600. Used on fleaBay expect about $150-250 but limited warranty/recourse.

I used Flagship for a previous LS-swap project where I had the VIN, engine, harness, but lacked ECU: https://www.fs1inc.com/engine-control-modules.html
Looks like this is your ECU, ~$450 and they guarantee it, funny the model Noah has is half the price maybe b/c no one wants California-ready emissions or something.

Anyway, do us a favor and come back here to let us know how things pan out.

 

Couple suggestions to add to your Personal Details that will help others when assisting. You are already showing 2001 tundra v8 and we now know it's a Limited from one of your posts. From your avatar pic, it appears to show it's an AC. It's not a DC because they did not come out till 04.
If correct, I'd suggest adding AC LTD 4x4 to your already 2001 tundra v8.

Personal Details | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Just got off the phone with Toyota and gave them my VIN. Turns out my part# was:
896610c240 (you were SO close)
But it has been superceded by part#
896610c361
BUT, they are unavailable from Toyota, don't make em, and don't have em in-stock. But in that flagship website they're only 220$ so I think I'll just order it off there for what that's worth.

He wasn't able to give me an answer why that part number has been superceded either

 

Supercessions happen. Think of it like a v1, v2, v3 type thing. When you release the next version from v1 -> v2, you update the part number. Stupid part is, it can be something as simple as "v1" has one software version on it and "v2" has a newer software version on it. But typically most OEMs won't increment the version number unless there's a physical change on the board.

Makes it even more confusing when your truck is 20 years old and they've been through several version changes and you need to replace the part. But they keep track of all the version numbers as you'll see in the picture I linked in a previous reply where you can see all the numbers.

F1 is a solid choice. If you're cool with paying the full $220 to replace the ECU totally, go for it. I'm on the fence about whether I'd buy Noah's for less as a 'sanity check' and if it works go to F1 to buy the right part. But I'm not much of a gambler and will spend a little extra if it means saving in the long run.

 

I also, am not a gambler and would prefer to spend a little extra to save in the long run. Buy once, cry once.
It's a 21 year old truck with over 300,000kms on it,that gets taken out into the bush and beaten up. It needs to be able to get me home as well. I'm okay with spending that money for new parts for the sanity check alone.

 

New ECM showed up today, plugged it in and the truck fired right up!! No codes, no hesitation, no stumbles! Felt good to drive it again! Even if it is a little underpowered and slow, haha.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Fantastic troubleshooting, glad she's back up and running!