Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Valve cover gasket is definitely what I meant @Wynnded thanks for the save, it's been corrected . IIRC you had this issue didn't you?

@Fightnfire note the correction...

 

Yes it would be around 12 Mph. Thanks for the info.

 

Perfectly normal

Cam tower leaKS are the biggest item to look out for

Doubtful it would fit

I'd wait for the service... if it does end up being the abs, that's a new one to me. Learned somethin

 

Ya, good time. Not really though.

The door locks mask the sound at 12mph if that's set. It's rather subtle, but you'll recognize it for what it is. After a restart, lock the doors then begin to move the truck. At 12mph you'll hear it. It's so loud where you work, you may have still have trouble catching it.

 

I'm having an issue with my '08 Tundra. I turned the key to start the truck and didn't get anything. No crank, no start. The check engine light and the traction control light illuminated solid, and the VSC off and 4LO lights began to blink. I turned the key to the off position and tried again. This time the engine would turn over, but not start. I tried again and the engine started. I have not had trouble starting the truck since, but the lights remain. This happened before, with the same light combination, but the truck would not do anything and the mechanic replaced the starter. I also read of a similar issue from another forum member here; https://www.tundras.com/threads/diagnosing-my-possessed-tundra.11989/ Maybe your knowledge can help two of us at the same time. Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide!

 

Doesn't sound like a starter.... what codes are in it?

 

I have an 02 Tundra with 4.7 V8. I have 25k on the water pump but the pulley on the front that is driven by the serpentine belt is making noise like a bearing is shot. I can find the part but was told today by an Autozone worker that this pulley is machine pressed onto the water pump and I will have to replace the entire water pump. Of course, I would like to just replace the pulley. Can anyone help me out with a little advice?

 

If the pulley is pressed on you most likely will have to buy a new water pump. If you bought the last water pump from Autozone that may be a problem as well. I have not had good luck with parts from Autozone. Their parts are the cheapest for a reason. What kind of warranty did you have on the last water pump?

 

Dosent make much sense... the serpentine belt doesn't drive the water pump. The timing belt dors. If u installed a new water pump 25k miles ago, doubtful that's the failed part don't u think? Maybe it's the fan clutch bearing?

 

I used the old trick of placing the end of a long screwdriver to the different parts of the engine and listening to the handle end. It is the water pump making the noise. There are no leaks or elevated temp and it seems to be working fine. The water pump was replaced by Napa using a quality part. It is under warranty, but I will have to pay labor. I can easily replace that front pulley myself.

 

Easily replacing a pressed on part? The only way to replace a pressed on part is with a press. To do that you would have to remove the water pump. If you remove the water pump you might as well use your warranty. Wait, I'm not the Toyota mechanic just talking from experience with pressed on parts. Just my 2 cents, because I'm a lot better at thread jacking and shennanagin's. One day I will learn how to spell Shenanigins. Maybe not, but I will keep trying.

 

She-nan-agins oops that is something my girlfriend in high school did repeatedly. I;m still trying.

 

Every now and then I get a sluggish start. Usually in the morning when the truck has been sitting all night. Once in a blue moon. I get a failed start, but then afterwards it starts right up. My thoughts at this point are either fuel pump starting to go out or ECM. Also, for troubleshooting purposes, it's always better with a full tank, and slowly starts to present as tank goes down. Which makes me lean more towards fuel pump

 

Long story short I unknowingly had the wrong lug nuts on my wheels for a little while and on a long road trip had to crank on the lug nuts multiple times to keep them tight without a torque wrench. I'm sure I over-torqued them more than once and now I'm worried I stressed the lugs. Should I go ahead and replace them all to be safe or am I worrying to much? Last thing I want to have them shear off on the freeway...

 

Yea they were steel. I had the TRD package wheels and the dealership by me sold me the acorn style TRD lug nuts for like the Tacoma wheels which weren't correct for TRD wheels... Didn't realize they were the wrong nuts until I went back to complain they were coming loose.

 

No they were fine. And I drove them for a couple thousand miles with no issues, wasn't until I I had to drive out to Utah one time and realized they were coming a little loose, so during the trip I kept stopping and cranking them with the tire iron like an idiot because I was scared they were gonna come off. Picked up some new wheels and lugs right after the trip but I cranked on each lug a few times on that trip. I probably should change all the lugs but I don't have the time right now and really don't want to pay $400 or $500 for the dealership to do it

 

Flex fuel? Tsb if so...

Up to u... studs aren't cheap when u are doing that many.

 

Yes flex fuel...forgive me not sure what tsb means

 

Tsb stands for what sean just said^ toyota knows there is a problem so they created the TSB. DealeRS can perform the tsb for u

 

I need some help . I'm hearing squeaking sound coming from the bed of the truck . Not sure what it is and can't seem to make it go away . Was wondering if anyone is having the same issue and how were you able to fixed it. Also , I googled it and some explanations for the sound is due to the lead spring . Thoughts and suggestions to make it go away . It's very annoying . Appreciate any help . Thanks

 

id first have someone jump around in the bed. lay on the ground and isolate the noise. so much going on back there a squeak from the bed area isnt very narrowed down

 

Yea , I tried jumping on the bed and it helped in the past but this time around is not going away. It makes the sound when the truck or bed experience torque or slightly bend when going into/ out of driveways and turning . Thx

 

2008 4x4 w/ 5.7

Been having random transmission issues. First it was shift solenoid D high resistance. Replaced solenoid, cleared codes and drove good after I relearned transmission. Couple weeks later I'm getting on the interstate and noticed after a couple seconds of full throttle CEL on and won't shift past 4th gear. Then switched to sport shift after pulling over and cycling key. Still no change. Cleared code then took off again and now it won't shift past 3rd. I can manually shift into 4th and it will shift but soon after it will kick back in 3rd. I'm figuring I got either a short in harness or faulty ECM because today I recorded codes, cleared and test drove it. No problems at all. Truck shifts out to 6th and runs like a scalded ape. This Ghost is getting on my nerves.

Here are the 3 codes it is showing.

 

That's gonna be difficultto diagnose man... have some one sit in the bed while u drive up the driveway? Gotta get creative...

I would be leaning towards a transmission in that truck sir... high resistance could be caused by clutch material in the fluid clogging up your solenoid. Now you are throwing more then one code for the solenoids.... needs a transmission

 

Ok so I'm at 104,000 and went to change rear diff fluid. When I pulled the plug, I found a moderate amount of metallic sludge and a strip of metal (in picture) Any ideas what the deal is. The piece of metal is thin and about the size of a fine in diameter.

 

Start with tightening down your bed bolts. And make sure your leaf springs aren't dirty.

 

@LOTSOFTOYS Any tips for replacing the alternator on a 2nd Gen 5.7L? Everything i'm reading makes it look pretty rough.

 

Sounds normal. Make sure u do that every 30k

Patients.... it is rough