What is going on?

That’s exactly what I did. 5 volts on pin 2 of good cylinder 0 volts on bad. I checked pin 24 of e7 0 volts. You think bad ecm

 

Well, if it was me and I had 5vdc coming out of ECU at pin 25 and 5vdc at pin 2 of a good coil and I had 0vdc at pin 24 of ECU and pin 2 of bad coil, my Monday would suck and I’d get drunk amd I don’t drink no mo.
Don’t take my word for it but I don’t like what you’re finding for your situation.

If there was a way to apply 5vdc to pin 2 safely to a bad coil, reset codes and see if that related code goes away, that would be one way to tell. I’m not a Toyota Master tech but I’d be trying something troubleshooting wise before condeming an ECU

 

Well I’m at the end of the road. I guess I can look at a used or rebuilt ECU.

 

I love Japanese Truck Dismantling!

https://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/Toyota-Tundra-ECM-ECU-p/89661-0c.htm

Double check the p/n to be sure.

There are apparently 4 p/n for 2004:

Dbl cab 4WD
Dbl Cab 2WD
RC/AC 4WD
RC/AC 2WD

 

Pullup resistor to 5V. It's just an open collector TTL circuit. Pullup value depends upon how much circuit current the coil can sink.

 

Expound please in case it helps @Grumpy61

 

I don't know if I can put into layman's terms that most people can understand without a basic knowledge of switching transistor circuits (i.e. BJTs)

Maybe this?
https://learn.adafruit.com/transistors-101/open-collector

One thing I was going to suggest but am unsure of since I don't regularly work with TTL circuits often is whether there is any ESD protection on the input to the ECM. If there were, a quick diode check on the ECM input to GND and then to the 5V power in could verify if one of those diodes are damaged if it were similar to the protection of a CMOS circuit.

 

Appreciate that, brings back memories of 40 yrs as an ET

My reasoning for suggesting 5vdc check of ECU pin 24/25 was it was a Diagnostic check for IGF 1/2 as shown below. Assuming there was to be 5vdc at those points, I assumed there then should be 5vdc at pin 2 of each coil. When I checked all of mine using their criteria, I indeed saw 5vdc @ ECU pin 24/25 and pin 2 pf each coil with IGN On/ENG off. Assuming gets us in trouble but I simply took them literally without thinking too deeply....for me the KISS theory. As I mentioned above earlier, I ain't a Toyota Master Tech and hope my info is taken with a grain of thought. An opinion/troubleshooting by a trained tech takes precedent over my thoughts any day, twice on Sunday.

 

Yeah, IDK if they still use 5v logic in today’s vehicles, but it seems like it will never die.

To further complicate things I just had to toss all the TI logic circuit books and others I’ve accumulated over the last 20 years. Corporate doesn’t want engineers to have designated desks with storage unless you’re on site full time because everything is on the web right? No, it’s not!

 

I bought a reprogrammed ecm and used a OBD tool that was sent with it. Installed it twice same codes same problems.

 

Originally I was going to suggest checking spark plugs, wiping off any carbon residue on the boots of the coil packs and putting some dry gas in the tank with a fill-up to insure it wasn’t water, but when it looked like an ecu problem I didn’t bother.

 

Glad I came across this I have the same exact problem. Truck was starting then would stall a few seconds later.. spent 500 and a fuel control mod, now it stays running but I have p0351, p0354,p0356,p0357. I only have 4 volts on pin 2 and pin 1 has 11. I did get the truck to idle with no codes after I unplugged the battery for a bit while I unhooked harness to check for corrosion but as soon as I reved up to I'd say 3300rmp they came right back.. please if you find the problem let me and I'll be sure to do the same thanks

 

Based on your username, looks like you may have an '08. You're posting in the '00-'06 forums. While the core drivetrain is the same, the solution to fix this problem may not be, and wiring/components of the trucks may not match at all.

 

Back at the tundra. I unplugged the coils on the bad cylinders. Started plugging in one at a time. I could hear a change. Plugged the 3rd one in sounded like crap. I unplugged it and plugged 4. Started it up sounded good. Getting new coil and will let you know. I stopped and started it between each plug-in.

PS: Install new coil pack. Test drive runs great. Woohoo

 

Grumpy, did this solve your problems? My sons (new to him) '04 is throwing the same codes. I already drained tank and put in fresh gas with HEET, she fired up great and ran a few miles then problem persisted. I then bought Denso's and replaced all 8 coil packs. Fired up great and ran smooth and about 10 miles later started sputtering, low idle and loss of power again. Threw the same codes... P0351, 354, 356 and 357 again! All saying Primary/Secondary Circuit DTC. Beings codes are opposite sides of the engine, I'm ruling out fuel pressure and injectors clogged on a specific rail.

 

Yes this fixed the problem.
If it will idle when it’s throwing the codes, you might unplug the coil packs on 1,4,6, and 7. Then plug them back one at a time. I could hear a difference. I started with 4 then 6 because they were easy to get to. When I plugged 7 in it sounded worse, unplugged 7, plugged 1 in and it was hard to hear a miss. Replaced coil pack on 7 and it runs great.