I have a amp draw question...and the "short" jumper in the fuse box - SOLVED!

Buy A New battery

 

Checked this morning, has not been driven or started since last time I checked it.

Draw -


Battery voltage - 2 weeks since last charge(charge every 2 weeks), starts fine though.

 

Thanks guys! You and the site diagrams have been a tremendous help! I can not believe it took this long! I had my daughter reading my amp meter the first time i ram thru the exercise 3 days ago!

It is the ECU-DDC-2 that's drawing the .5 amp. (normal current draw! Crazy amount of power!

If one removes either the - under the hood fuse box Short, or removes the under the hood "20 am ECU, or removes the inside fuse labeled ECU-DDC 2 this drops all of the parasitic current .5 amps.

 

I had a new one sitting in my shop for a project truck I am working on.... That's the first thing I did....

 

I mentioned I had a hunch it might be normal current draw. While I do agree it is high, it might not be broken at all.

Were you actually having trouble starting the truck after letting it sit?

As mentioned before a good battery should be able to go several weeks even at .5 amp draw and still start the truck.

EDIT: I read your first post again and see you just recently bought the truck. Anyway if you put a new battery in it just drive it and enjoy it.

Could also be worth nothing the electrical system was vastly expanded in the 2018+ with the addition of all the Toyota Safety Sense modules. It could take a lot of power to keep them “awake” or whatever with the key off

 

Was your dome light on at his time of your test? I am still not convinced a .5 is normal. The battery we have is not more than 100 amp hour. 200 hours IF the battery was 100% efficient - it would be dead in 8 days,

 

Is the hood latch monitored? I know on the New Beetle if the hood, truck lid or door was ajar it killed the battery even after the interior lights timed out. Something in the security system prevented it from going to sleep mode.

 

I checked my neighbors 2017. Only .1 amp AFTER the door is closed and the dome light times out. Door open? .5 amps

Taking it into the Toyota shop tomorrow in Prescott. Hopefully they can connect to the ECU-DDC and see the device on the unit that is drawing the excess current.

 

No, why would I test with dome light on? Didn’t bother setting the hood latch though. Battery disconnected and hood open for the 3 days between tests, nothing on other than hood open, same .5v draw every time checked.

As previously mentioned, there are many changes to the 2018 vs. 2017, enough so that comparing is likely pointless.

 

Now I am going to have to measure my 07 just to know. The fact it dropped significantly after the dome light timeouts confirms what I was talking about a few days ago, at least on the 2017, after about 15mins the truck goes to “sleep”

This may not be much help but you have check all the simple things right? All interior lights, dome and in the door ect to make sure they are all going off. Does the truck have any kind of add on amp or radio system? Just make to make sure the simple stuff is checked off

 

thought for sure I could find the item drawing current with my thermal camera... no luck . here you can see the washer fluid is still warm from yesterday's ambient temperatures.

 

yep I know the 2017 and the 18 is very different! thanks for that info! You guys have taught me a ton.... I was just asking to make sure the dome light was not on when you were checking. A BIG thanks Vizsia for doing this for me. Yep my truck never fall asleep …always .5, Aftermarket stuff has been tested Light bar wiring has been completely removed. The Tesla style android tablet - I pulled the fuse and disconnect the entire unit. No change in the draw.

maybe it is normal? 17 has a .5 amp draw with doom light on. how long you think the battery would last with the dome light constantly on?

my fix for now and the maintain the voltage. I don't plan on using the truck very often. I have an old 1992 Toyota Pickup for day to day stuff and two motorcycles.

 

You could also install one of these, no?

 

SOLVED!!!!
the body control module is awakened if the hood lacth is open OR something is plugged into the OBDII port!!! It the EUC-DDC is on, it pulls .5 amps!
If it is "off" (AKA times out and falls asleep) normal draw is .05 to .07.

Why did I missed this? I checked the OBDII port and I checked the hood latch but not at the same time! The Toyota tech did not tell me this - he just said I unplugged the OBDII without opening the door and the current went away! But I figured during his routine he must close the hood latch as a procedure.


So why do I have something plugged into the OBDII port? The android tablet Tesla style radio I have plugs in to the truck for system information.

Parts changing and go arounds - we would have learned nothing and would still have the problem!

 

What data is it getting for the radio? What is missing on the radio when this OBD is unplugged? It could be that the Tesla style OBD device is continuously querying the communication network for info and the body control module keeps answering when it sees a question never allowing it to go to sleep.

I have a microcontroller plugged into my OBD port 24/7 to read in communication data but it doesn’t ask for any on the network. I’m very certain my body control module is still going to sleep after 10-15 mins

 

Now you have me wondering about my Scangauge. Better do some reading to see if keeping that plugged in has the same effect.

 

I had a scan gauge on my 2014 FJ that I used to display "miles till empty". I rarely used the truck and never had an issue with it.

 

just a reminder ... battery issues can be caused by your hood latch switch!