Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Do you have the service records of what fluids have been changed? If not then I would suggest a coolant change which should be done every 5 years. Do and inspection of the diff fluids and transfer case fluid. Also check the date code on the tires which is the last four digits of the DOT number. First two number is the week of manufacture and the last two is the year. Anything over 5 years you should consider replacement. Check the brake fluid for water. You can buy test strips from any parts store. Check the power steering fluid, it should be a gold color if it's the original fluid. If it's dark consider a flush.

 

Yes it was the full exchange done at the dealer and it has just over 188k miles. However, the fluid exchange has been done a few times before. They used some machine that hooks up to cooler lines and replaced all the old fluid with new fluid and they added conditioner. Is this different from power flushing? I had a technician at the dealer check the fluid level and at first he was thinking it could just be a quart low. He just drained the fluid to see how much came out and put some back in.

 

I would want to verify that the level is correct using the method Toyota specifies which requires using Techstream. I would also do a health check using Techstream to make sure there are no issues. The delay that your experiencing can happen on higher mileage transmissions. As parts wear it takes a little longer for fluid pressure to build resulting a slightly longer engagement. If your worried about it you could have someone take the pan down and inspect for debris in the pan and make sure the filter screen is clean. Personally I would just leave it if you know the level is correct and the health check showed no problems.

 

Definitely makes sense on a higher mileage transmission. Would this mean that I may need to replace or get the transmission rebuild at some point if the parts are wearing?

 

I sure do, definitely should have looked last night before posting but I was comfortable in bed!

Standard oil changes every 5k
July 2013 - fresh fluid in front and rear differentials and transfer case
New tires in 2014, but they have no signs of dry rot or anything

Thank you, this is great!

 

I'm a mechanic, well it has been a few moons but I can handle all of your F-15E needs

 

Everything has a service life and can only last so long. It's tough to know when something is going to fail. It comes down to how it was serviced and how the transmission was used. Someone that tows frequently will have a shorter trans service life than someone that doesn't.

 

How often should I service my trunnion bearing on the demultiplexer?

 

Every 1.65220010101 Months

 

Hello to all on Tundras.com,

We are an aluminum truck bed manufacturer and recently picked up a low mileage 2011 CMSB Grade 5.7 4x4 for research and development (read: to play with). Long story short, the previous owner/their mechanic did some less than stellar repairs. After fixing their uh-oh's, it was time for the fun stuff i.e. Optitron gauges, drive monitor switch, ultimately leading to a front end conversion. Upon installing the drive monitor switch, it was discovered that 2 wires from JL1 to J28 were needed and subsequently installed using the correct pins for the harness connector. Finished the job, go to start truck and.............nothing. Not even a click. Literally followed every single starting procedure/wire checking continuity and signal all the way from the ignition to the ECU, all good. Starting relay, good. Battery, new and good. Assuming that I crossed or damaged something while pinning the harness for the drive monitor switch, I located a Tundra at a junkyard and went and picked the entire J28 down to the JL1 with the drive monitor switch wires already present! Also pulled the starting relay as a test/backup. Spliced the entire new J28 and JL1 connectors into our truck, plug everything back in and.............nothing. No start, same condition. Now to the fun part, while installing the 2 wires the first time, we un-installed an aftermarket trailer brake controller installed by the previous owner. Figuring we had nothing else to lose or try, we plugged the trailer brake harness (not the controller, just the harness!) back into the truck and BAM, fires right up. Unplug it, same no start condition. Called the manufacturer of the brake controller and talked to three separate tech support persons and none had any idea why this would be the case!

Therefore, here we are, any Tundra experts out there know why the truck would not start without an after market trailer brake controller harness plugged into the factory connector?

Thank you in advance for your best guesses!

AlumBody Team

 

So after successfully replacing my rack and pinion, ps pump (one of them failed a while back not sure which one) axles and knuckles I noticed this today. The left side seems to be good while the right side seems to not be in all the way.

Not sure how it happened, I only drove the truck 3 miles since the replacement. No oil is coming out.

My question: Am I good to bang that axle back in by using a pry bar on the metal lip of the axle? Or do I have to disconnect everything again (caliper, rotor, take the axle out of the knuckle) to do it?

I would assume there's enough movement in the axle to allow me to get that axle dust boot cover flush with the surface.

 

Do you have Techstream? Plug in the brake controller and run a health check with Techstream.

 

Use your hand and see if you can move the axle in and out. My concern is that the C clip may not be on the axle shaft. Did you smear the CV axle shaft and C clip with some grease to help center the clip before you reinstalled? If you sure the clip is in position then a good strike on the metal lip with a pry bar and hammer should set it in place without removing everything. Check it after a few miles.

 

Thank you Ruggybuggy for the suggestion. We don't currently have Techstream. If we can't figure it out without going that route we will definitely look into it!

AlumBody Team

 

The axle doesn't move when I try and I put some grease on one but no the other. Can't remember which side. I'll give the pry bar a shot to see how it goes. Thank you for all your help.

 

2018 Tundra Off Road how can I make the "beep" louder when I use the remote to lock or unlock the truck?

 

I'm sure you can do it but I don't recall. Have a look in the owner's manual or maybe someone else can chime in.

 

Vehicle must be running and in gear


Menu

Setup

Scroll down to Vehicle

Vehicle Customization

Door Lock Settings

Scroll down to Lock/Unlock Feedback Tone

Press down arrow and it displays a minus & plus bar

I changed mine from factory 5 to 7 (highest)

Volume should now be at its highest volume.

 

I took my 2012 in for an oil change and was told that Toyota didn't recommend greasing the fittings at this time. I started looking online to find the fittings and the only reference I can find is to the driveshaft. Are there fittings on the suspension parts?

 

There are not.

 

You need to get more involved in answering a few of these.

 

Now that I have my AIP issue fixed, do I ever have to worry about this happening again? Pumps for bank 1 and 2 replaced, new valves, new hose, snorkel cover, clamp, pipe gaskets. Problem was water intrusion.

 

Imagine that would depend upon how long you keep the vehicle.

Nothing lasts forever.

 

Why yes, the system can fail again. Why do you think some people just get the bypass kit and move on?

 

Here's the movement. It doesn't move any more than that. I took a pry bar with a soft mallet and gave it a couple taps but it still moves. No oil leaks while moving it. I'll just keep an eye out.

Hopefully dust didn't accumulate with the front diff while off reading.

https://youtu.be/ykpll9kkkzQ

 

Not a Toyota, but a pretty fun journey into the mystery of the disappearing brake pad!



Think I can just hit those pistons with some emery cloth and be back in action. There is also a couple thousandths left on the backside of that rotor, so maybe we can just turn them.

 

Once the clip is in the mating groove there shouldn't be any movement like you're showing. An easy way to check it would be to jack the truck and support it on the frame and let the control arm hang. Undo the two large bolt that go into the knuckle. Pull the strut assemble out a bit and see if you can pull the axle out of the diff by hand. If it slides out the clip is missing.

 

There is no way your going to be able to reuse the rotor. Rotors are cheap. Caliper should be replaced but I'll leave that up to you.

I'm guessing a GM product? Tahoe?

 

It's ALL getting replaced. I don't take any chances with bakes.

You know your GM products sir! It's a 2002 Tahoe.... And my friend is still alive and with us, thankfully.

He was very close to losing those pistons, along with braking function/pressure.

I have another buddy (a couple decades ago) who wore completely thru his rotors to the vanes/vents. But this is the first I've seen a brake pad just entirely gone. There were a couple shredded steel bits which May have been the remainder of the backing plate.

 

Yep.

Looks like there's possibly a circlip sitting at the bottom of your differential housing.

I would probably see about sourcing one just to be prepared for reassembly.

I got lucky after accidentally tearing out my front axle. Was able to compress the circlip with my fingers, rotate the axle back and forth till the splines seemed aligned, then inserted the axle as far as I could by hand. I hear the "opening" of the circlip should be facing downward for ease of installation, but I did not know about this and it seems to have worked out just fine.

Drive it home with your pictured prybar and 3lb lump of hammer.