Should I replace parts on 21+ year old truck with 47,500 original miles

Not sure what kind of environment you'll be exposing the truck to or how much you'll be driving it but that stuff can be bad news. Traps rust underneath the coating as it starts to bubble up.
I see you said the paint shop is going to put an epoxy coating over it. Over the already sprayed on undercoating or scrape off old and put on new?

Glad the tie rod mess wasn't too much of a mess. Why did they need to replace your rack anyway?

 

Curious... have you done the spark plugs and filters? Make sure you replace the wiper blades as well. When doing the head unit, maybe add a rear plate frame with back-up camera. Easiest way to add that feature. And before the summer heat sets in, have the AC system checked out for proper function.

 

That's crazy about your tie rod. It looks like they forgot the castle nut and cotter pin or didn't torque it.

 

This made me nervous too. I wouldn't want any coating applied to my frame except maybe grease or Fluid Film/Wool Wax.

 

I am in the process of getting more information from the paint shop about coating the frame before I pull the trigger. While I am very happy with the condition that it's in now, I certainly don't want to do anything that might cause problems later on. The frame and crossmembers (spare tire carrier) were inspected by a dealership under Toyota's limited service campaign (A0F and 90M respectively) in 2011. As I now understand it the campaign/recall was either replace the frame or do nothing depending on the decision flowchart. I see no record that the frame was replaced or treated in any way. Since the truck has lived its entire life in Florida (east coast) the frame has only light surface rust. The paint shop I am using has been in business over 40 years and the owners have restored many of their own vehicles (antique and otherwise) and swear by the treatment. I will provide an update on this next week.

 

I looked around in the parking lot to see if I could find the nut or pin but saw nothing. I have to believe that at least the nut was on when the dealership did the alignment (post steering rack install) but maybe not...will never know for sure. I'm wondering if someone lost their job over this.

 

Fuel & air filters have been changed. Plugs are original and will be replaced by year end.

 

I purchased a tailgate latch with the camera built in on Amazon

$85 Master Tailgaters Black Primed Tailgate Handle with Backup Camera Replacement for Toyota Tundra (2000-2006) | IP68 Waterproof | Parking Grid Lines Available | Easy to Install

Master Tailgaters Replacement for Toyota Tundra (2000-2006) Black Primed Tailgate Handle with Backup Camera and had all the wiring done when the head unit was installed. Having it painted before final install.

 

Good call on spare tire, removed it before dropping off at the paint shop. Mine is looking really rough.



I ordered a new spare wheel through Toyota parts online during their recent big promotion sale. I believe it came out to about $100. I haven't picked it up yet and may return it. I've since realized I will need a bigger 17" spare wheel because I am going to install a big brake kit from SOS Performance 332mm BIG BRAKE KIT STOPTECH 4 PISTON FRONT fits 2000-2006 TUND | SOS Performance, Tundra Racing, Stoptech Big Brake Kit Rear Disc. I definitely want a full size spare but I'm concerned whether a 17" spare with a larger tire 285/70/17 will store properly underneath. I posted a question about this earlier in the week on the Lunch Table Forum and saw a couple responses that it should be 'no problem' I welcome more input on this.

I also noticed that the passenger side E brake cable has slack. The brake is working well. I came across a thread on this E- brake cable slack | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com) So I will be addressing this soon.

 

What about the starter?
Is that something that should be replaced as well?

 

I screwed that one up a little bit. The jury is a little split. Upgrading to the HD starter makes sense to me. I didn’t do my homework and I believe I have a new non-HD. Some respected advice is don’t mess with it. I figure it was worth doing while things were apart but I pay for wrenching so parts costs aren’t as significant as labor to some degree.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-sr5-dc-starter-replacement.102520/#post-2629865

 

Glad you didn’t have a bad ending to the tie rod end coming off. I find it odd that could happen as mine won’t even budge when the nut is off. I couldn’t break them loose with a BFH last time. Would have taken a puller. Makes me wonder what the difference is between yours and the ones that are on mine. I live in the corrosion free south, so mine aren’t rusty at all, they just “press in” so tight once they are torqued in that they couldn’t possibly fall out.

 

My suggestion:

1. Get a spare steelie 16 for right now, should be super easy, I got one for free from a Tacoma guy, lots of 3rd gen Taco owners going to 17's too, solves for the immediate need.
2. Long term buy 5 matching 17's of whatever wheel you choose. Or shoot, 6. One in the bed, one under the bed, one on each corner. Drop the under bed spare when wheeling if you want clearance, you can shove it in the bed at that point and strap it down with ratchets. I wouldn't want a steelie when out on the trail, I'm a 5 alloy guy just because it gives you nice options. Also, no TPMS for us so we save a bit on that, may as well just stick with all wheels the same.

Granted, I'm an idiot for buying a $350 spare but hey, that's how I roll.

 

I have a matching spare alloy rim too. I made the dealer throw it in when I bought the truck new. I bet they wouldn't do that anymore, they are pretty hard to negotiate with anymore. I miss the days that you could order a vehicle any way you wanted it. Just about any option or not, and any motor / trans combo instead take this or not at all.