What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Oh and here's what I'm talking about with restraining the lines on driver side to give more room. (edit: I just realized the boss for the bolt and wires to move is actually be 2" up from the circle in the pic, half cut-off by the edge of pic)

 

You’re the man! I really do appreciate all the knowledge y’all put out here all the time

 

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-macpherson-strut-and-coil-spring-compressor.html

 

When is all this work supposed to start?
You're fixin to have a brand new truck after this.

 

Next weekend. Plan is to start deconstruction on Thursday evening and have everything back together to hit the offroad park in palo duro canyon on Sunday.

 

Question for the parts Gurus... What is the difference between these two rear brake drums. They both note they will fit my 2003 AC SR5

Working on Part Deux of ordering stuffs... Is one better than the other, ??? or what??

 

All of it? Thursday to Sunday? Damn. Good luck.

 

Quite a list to accomplish in a short amount of time. Good luck on the rehab / repairs!

 

Most of it. We're gonna concentrate on suspension and axles. Everything else is fluff that I can do later or if we have time.

 

And I forgot to add 33x10.5r16 to the list too. Pretty sure those are gonna be about $1400 or so.

 

Good luck! Don't forget about the alignment, or are you guys going to try and DIY it?

 

I've been thinking about it. I'm not sure I could get one done before we head out. Maybe we can do a quick and dirty "basic settings" alignment till I can get it to an alignment specialist.

 

Ahh I see, sounds like a plan. Did your shocks come with a spanner wrench? I have an extra set for those that are useless to me and taking up space.

 

Indeed they did.

 

Dang it.

 

Discount has them available in 1-5 days. Good call.

I got the freedom ones.

 

Im still rocking my driveway alignment and I love it. Ill bring my little angle finder thing and we can get it road worthy.

 

Hi,
Recharged my A/C for summer today, not the best job as I didn't evac the system prior to giving it a shot of gas, you can still see air bubbles via the receiver dryer, but its as cold as a witch's tit. So that'll do me.

I had a leak at the condensor on the low side due to an o-ring gone bad. $2.76 from Toyota.

here's the part numbers for the o-rings if any one needs them

 

So you changed the o ring, no pressure in the system, and then just charged it? You will have issues in the future, probably a clogged filter dryer. I’m anal and do a triple evac and nitrogen purge.

 

Well if its taking up space...I could help you out with that

 

yeah budget job to get me through mate, I realize its not the best, but it'll do for now.

 

Your Toytecs are 2.0 shock bodys, yeah? They might work. The older Toytecs have two collars that tighten against each other rather than the pinch bolt like on yours. I kinda think the tool they sent with yours might be better. One of the pins on these wrenches broke but I was able to fix it. One of them is for the bigger upper collar, the other is for the lower collar.





The spanner wrench I bought for my Blings is billet aluminum for 2.5" shock bodies. It's a much nicer tool compared to the old spanner wrench.

 

Help needed! ( is part #2 above telescopic?)

I am in the processes of doing the steering shaft seal.
it was a bitch to get the knuckle off the top shaft but I got it off eventually.

The problem I have now is that when I put the knuckle back on and tap it down onto the rack, it falls out of the top yoke? Meaning that somehow the shaft has now has been shortened in length?
I checked back up the steering column and it looks like there is another yoke after the second top knuckle.
Have I, in mistake, knocked this back into the shaft too much whilst doing the bottom knuckle? so basically is the first picture too far on the shaft?

how will I know the correct depth of both?

 

I've done this repair but I'm having trouble understanding what you're asking, even with the picture. What part are you calling the knuckle?

Have you already read this thread for help?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-steering-shaft-seal.48664/

 

Grab the shaft with vise-grips and try to stretch it?

 

Ya I dont think those will work, but I appreciate it!

 

Yes ive been through most of the threads, to put it simply,

I've removed parts 3 &4.
replaced seal
gone to put 3 & 4 back on and its too short, with the bottom of 4 seated the top shaft doesn't contact part 3.
its like the shaft has shrunk about an inch, thats why i was asking if that intermediate bit of the steering shaft is telescopic, it doesn't want to budge?

 

Can you slide 4 up a bit, and maybe loosen the rag joint?

 

Haven’t done any upgrades to my truck for a while, but I decided last week to sauce it up!
New gear:
Aftermarket UCA’s
Tie Rod Ends
Lower ball Joints

Decided my truck looked kinda wimpy with 265/75r16s on 3.5 inches of lift, so I made the decision to fork out some dough for 285’s.

I think I might want to try out 35 inch tires next time.

 

yeah, not really as 4 is located by a bolt hole in the spline, 4 is good and seated as you can see by this pic the upper part of the shaft now doesnt even reach the flex joint.