Crackhead resurrection

Well, shit...

Trying to capture anything else I can. I realize that it's a little late... with the radiator probably having already caught a lot of the gunkies, but I wonder if I could dislodge anything with a back flush.

 

The truck of theseus strikes the pocket book once more...

 

What'd ya get now?

 

90201-16033 SW WASHER PLATE $3.62

44250-0C010 Rack and Pinion $363.15

90468-06092 Engine Cooling Fan Shroud Clip (2) $0.05 ea.

90466-41003 Radiator Hose Clamp (4) $7.36 ea.

17171-50020 Engine Intake Manifold Gasket (2) $16.06 ea.

17116-50010 GASKET, INTAKE $11.88

90467-15021 CLAMP FOR VENTILATION HOSE (2) $0.59 ea.

11193-70010 GASKET SPARK PLUG TUBE (8) $2.05 ea.

90480-18001 PCV Valve Grommet $3.29

$13 12204-50020 Toyota Ventilation Valve - 12204-50020

12204-50020 PCV Valve $4.52

12261-50050 HOSE, VENTILATION $14.21

11213-50031 Engine Valve Cover Gasket $12.58

11214-50011 Engine Valve Cover Gasket $12.58

90210-07001 Engine Valve Cover Grommet (16) $1.82 ea.

 

I reckon next payday will go towards whatever doesn't come with the Rack. @txagg oughta be able to tell me that, and DD injectors.

 

Inchy!

 

Have you been keeping tabs on how deep youre into this truck? Keeping all reciepts, i hope.

 

I've kept most of what I have ordered, but haven't organized or totalled. I know the silver truck was right around 7, but I didn't keep tabs. Those were just the big expenses that I could remember.

 

Just a shout out to you mate @Tundra2 , I used your thread to fix my 4wd flashing stuck in 2wd. Ended up being rear actuator rusted and front one stuck, I replaced the rear and the shaft 2wd positioning advice helped out alot. Appreciated the efforts you have gone to describe your experiences helps us all!

 

Glad you got-er squared away, and my posts made sense to somebody besides me. I appreciate the shout! I do my best to be as accurate as I can, although in the moment of understanding... my ability to describe, and convey may be lacking.

Wasn't a bad job getting her right I hope?

 

All good mate, It wasn't like one of the more "shitty every bolt braking due to rust weld jobs" I seem to be constantly tackling! I was scratching my head for a while, but to keep hitting the button for a few minutes after I pulled both actuators apart and put back together, then to finally see that green light stop blinking was such a joy, nothing like a few hammer taps to get things working again.

 

The other night, I ran out of time before I placed my body panel order. Not sire if free ship would work with that. Still feeling like going with cool springs, and taking a road trip for part pick up...

 

I had no idea Toyota still made body panels for our trucks. Why is shipping so high?

 

Packaging and size typically, although when I ordered my door seals from them shipping was crazy high. A quick email and it was adjusted.

Something to do with how their part system calculates it.

 

If you're going to do that, Serra also has a dealership in Birmingham AL which would be an easier trip. Same discounts and tax-free etc. Not sure if it's tax-free if you do in-person pickup though, so be aware.

If you do end up going to B-ham, and you like cuban sandwiches, look up Kool Korners. If you like beer, hit up TrimTab. Check out their CL also and maybe local JY's, my truck came from the area and I'm constantly seeing good stuff pop up every few weeks over there.

 

I love love love how motivated Noah is and how fucking knowledgeable Shifty is.

That's all I've got for now.

 

I'm also going to throw out that this is a job that it would be well worth paying a body shop to do. I've replaced rockers on a few vehicles (thanks road salt) and it is a HUGE pain in the ass.

Maybe stop by one and ask their opinion of repairs before you spend the $$ on parts.

 

They may have some sheet metal and the ability to create a panel cheaper than going the other route. And they can do the finish work to make it look nice. Or find the body shop kids at the local high school/VoTECH and offer your truck in sacrifice to their learning.

 

Well, been a minute fellers... when I wrecked the virus I kept on choogling in crackie till I had a misfire on April 14th... Drove 90~ish miles home with cylinder 5 miss...



Ordered some Denso ignition coils from RockAuto. Already had plugs from a previous order. The up, and attem early setup seen below.



Old ignition coils on the passengers side of the block...



When I pulled the rear most coil out I was kinda surprised by how short the plug boot was... I thought that somebody had cut the plug boot for some reason. Wasn't until I had pulled the plug to find out that the boots had gotten stuck on the plugs, and I just ripped em off. Pulled out my rubber insert from my spark plug socket so it would fit over the rubber boot stuck to the plug. Which then wouldn't grab the plug to pull it out of the spark plug tube... Instead of swapping rubbers devil I just stuck a magnet on the socket, and fished out the plugs thataway.






Went back in with NGK laser platinum BKR6EP-8 plugs. A smidge of anti-sneeze too as the old plugs were crusty as hell to get out. Had to work each one out. Little turn forwards, Little turn backward. Walking the dog!



Gratuitous old plug/coil shots













Schmooozed dielectric grease in the plug boots, and in the connector slots on each new coil before insertion. All plugs were torqued to what the FSM calls out. Can't remember right now... Each coil bolt got a covering with anti-sneeze too as you can see from the silver paste... Also went ahead, and torqued the valve covers to 53 in.lbs Thanks to @BubbaW's post on the lunch table thread.

 

I figure in the next 4-6 months crackie will become a dedicated tow rig... Looking for advice on how to best prepare for that with suspension, engine stuff, brakes etc...

Looking into travel campers that are 3,500 lbs or less unloaded.

Any, and all recommendations from y'all are more than welcome! Rear sway bars, new leaf springs, air bags, etc... Help me spend my money wisely with this...

 

WTF is that nonsense on the coil boots? Holy crap. I mean, I know you replaced, but there's always this for salvaging the olds.

RE: Towing. First thing I'd start looking at is a pair of helper bags. Firestone all the way, and stick with a mounting solution that allows you to run the bags with minimum air when you're not towing, and offers an easy filling solution. I've typically used bags for lowering, but setup my Dad's 2.5gen with fill/release port near the license plate so he could air in/out when hitching on/off conveniently. The kit he bought for install came with enough tube to run anywhere, only difficulty was routing.

 

Those were "Orion Motor tech" ignition coils which I wanted to get rid of, and return to purity...

I'll give it a gander. I remember you mentioning the license plate thing! Sounds easy to use. Appreciate any and all advice!

 

Ooof, damn, forgot about those. Maybe I should've scrolled back a page or two where I think I was, like, "wtf is Oriontech?!"

 

Can't remember if it was here or on the lunch table, but I do remember mentioning them. Yeah, definitely wanted those gone...

 

I like the idea of bags for trailer towing. Keeps it soft while loadless. Does crackie have the towing package?

 

It's got a hitch that LOOKS oem, but I can't remember right now. Let me check toyotas site again...

 

Having towed heavy with my first Gen, I would say new rear HD leafs will be your best bang for the buck. Your stock ones are likely tired and/or worn out. A 3500# camper will only have 450# or so of tongue weight. Airbags would be overkill. Brakes. That’s what I would spend my money on. And a brake controller for the trailer if you don’t have one. I’ve never run one, but I hear the rear sway bar is a nice upgrade. Especially if your trailer is light enough you don’t run a WDH.

 

So... nothing on here unless I'm misreading...

 

This right here. Sounds most logical to my illogical brain... Thanks!

 

If the yearly brochures are correct, towing package was not an option until 2003.
Items to check for....a tow package is available V8 models only—includes Class IV towing hitch, 7-pin connector, heavy-duty alternator and supplemental transmission oil cooler.