Power Window Upgrade to 2006 Regular Cab

Hmm, I could give the PAD-13 a whirl perhaps, but, as mentioned, I oddly find those specific ones I linked to above as being my favorites. I have been a little disappointed in the more expensive crimpers as I expect them to be better and they feel harder to use. The Aptiv one is great for 12 and 10 gauge wire where I really don't have a good alternative but it's very large (I wear L gloves and still find it awkwardly large) and it wasn't cheap. the $100 molex ones I got are similarly large and a bit harder to use as a result. I'm curious how I might like the Engineer tools but when doing high volume, a ratcheting crimper does help speed. For low volume stuff, non-ratcheting is of course fine and I use my non ratcheting to fine tune things, particularly when double crimping two wires to one terminal.

 

I'd have to look when I get home. I need to read this whole thread. Has a solution been found yet, or if a harness has been sourced?

 

Probably a dumb question, but can I order just the sealed terminals and use them everywhere? I need to rebuild one of my door window connectors due to corrosion.

 

They are different. Unsealed grip the wire jacket. Sealed are meant to go around a seal. If you use unsealed then water can get in. Low budget option for unsealed plus a seal on top that is smashed in.

They are not expensive and corsa sells kits so you get connector + terminals + seals all for one price.

 

I got the last missing connector from the dealer today at lunch. Next task is to solder up the cut wires and see if everything works. My plan is to do a couple of test wires before I do the real ones.

 

Just a little bit of progress made this weekend. Baby steps…

 

If this were me, I'd have forgotten to put the heat shrink on during my 1st wire. At least until after I tinned then probably finished my joint.

 

I did…..

 

It has taken a little while, but the harness is repaired and all of the pins show correct continuity. The next step will be to plug in the hardware and make sure everything works before I install all of it in the doors.

 

Here's hoping it goes well.

 

I have the harness repaired and checked and everything works except the power windows. The donor truck had a bad switch for the drivers window, so I sourced a replacement one that checks out with my multimeter. The window motors work when I put power directly to them, so they're good. I think that I don't have the main power relay on my truck. That would make sense, I guess, given that it came with no power accessories. The relay is supposed to be on the back of the fuse block to the left of the steering column under the dash. It's really tight in there, so I couldn't see for certain whether or not if it was there. If it's not there, putting it in is going to be a really fun exercise. Does having to add that relay sound familiar to anyone who's done this swap?

 

Mine had the relay if remember right. But it’s been. A few years

 

Never done the swap but definitely have to have the Power Relay as Dan alluded to. According to the 06 FSM and EWD, you would need the 5A ECU IG fuse, 30A Power fuse and Power Relay. The ECU IG should be there given it feeds a number of existing circuits. It's questionable if you have the 30A given it appears to only cover what you are dealing with. ECU IG fuse is used, among other uses, to energize the Power Relay and when energized closes the contacts, current then flows thru contacts to Master power windows switch, protected by 30A fuse.

 

That last picture tells the tale. No relay. On the bright side, the 30 amp fuse is there.

 

At least the relay is easily gotten from junkyards or denso or Toyota

 

I grabbed a relay and managed to wiggle it into place without taking apart too much of the dash. Success! I have power windows, door locks, and heated power mirrors in my front seat.

 

Welcome to the club! You can add power locks and the keyless fobs too

 

I wish heat to the mirrors were so easy for me. OP, if you are feeling generous, you could go back and edit your first post to include instructions as. Howto for others to follow.

 

I can do that! The mirror heat was a lucky bonus. The donor truck had heat, so the wires were in the door harness. Well, part of the wires were there, given the harness mangling done by the former owner. I learned how these connectors pin and unpin though, so adding the wires can be done pretty easily.

 

I made it a new thread "How to add heated mirrors to a truck that didn't come with them."

 

With the wiring harness sorted out, last night I started to install the donor drivers door panel. I knew the tweeter was missing, but I planned to just bolt in the one from my truck.

Hmmm. There should be a couple of little plastic posts there to screw the tweeter into. My plan right now is to buy a couple of nylon spacers, epoxy them to the panel and screw the tweeter screws into them. Once again, the passenger side is unmolested. The carnage is limited to the drivers door, so at least I can be grateful for that.

Anybody have a better idea than the epoxied plastic posts as a work around?

 

You could epoxy in metal nuts instead of plastic... that would be much more stable. You'll need to ensure proper placement before it sets though. (LOL!)

 

That's about what I did actually wind up doing. I had to re-clock the tweeter body a little bit, but I'm overall fairly happy with the way the repair turned out. I think it'll hold up to use.

 

The next small battle on the job will be to put the tweeter covers on the new door panels. I didn't look closely last night at how the covers are secured onto the door panel and if it is easy to take them off and swap them over. Does anybody know whether the covers come off the panel gracefully, or are they glued on and hard to get off without mangling? New ones are apparently available and inexpensive, but I would really like to get this project wrapped up this weekend instead of leaving it all taken apart waiting on parts to arrive.

 

The job is done and everything works like it is supposed to. Yea!

 

Been thinking about whether I want to buy a truck with manual windows and locks and then upgrade to power, or hold out for one that already has the power options. I'm searching for a regular cab long bed, and most of them are Tundra Grade or SR models with manual. I'm looking at 2nd Gens, but seems like the process should be similar.

Searching for threads on "power windows", I noticed that most of them are about issues with the windows not functioning. In addition to being a convenience, it is of course one more electrical thing that can go wrong. I mostly want to be able to roll the passenger window up or down while I'm driving either to get some airflow in the cab or seal out rain /debris /noise. What do ya'll think about the pros /cons of going through the fairly involved process of adding this feature vs sticking with the ol' reliable crank?

 

I’m in that boat on my ‘05 Tacoma which has no power windows or locks. Still undecided. I do have all the parts for power windows and door locks and remote entry but haven’t installed. I got aftermarket, I suspect there are more options for Tacoma than FGT but not sure on that.

I think a rear slider is more important if you want to have ventilation. Need more than just one window open and if you do the rear then the flow is nicer than passenger and driver windows down.

Tough call. Nice to go all down on the right day. And it’s a long reach.

I wouldn’t not buy a truck I like just because it doesn’t have electronics though. Harder to find a truck than parts.

 

I'm really happy having the power windows and locks on mine now. It's not a difficult conversion and it adds something to the driving experience, at least in my view. I'm glad I did it.

 

I am doing the same conversion as you did, and I'm running into an issue. I have a 05 single cab long bed v8 4x4 base, and I got the parts from a 04 sr5 access cab. Everything works except the windows, I've tried a different switch and that did not fix it. is there something I'm missing? do I need an 05 - 06 switch?

 

Check your fuse block on the interior. The power window fuse blocks have a green connector housing thing. The non power window ones are white. (Where the plug on the front of the block goes)