2nd gen cluster

So, in helping another member out I can verify the following (via toyodiy.com):

07-08 have the same part number for the Limited cluster
11 has a different part number than 07-08

My guess is 07-09 are the same, and 2011+ are the same, but 07-09 are different from 11-13 (at least, I haven't validated all the model years, and obviously, the 2014+ are completely different).

If you're stalking eBay, here are some tips for easily identifying which trucks may have the cluster you're looking for - but again, I'd validate the VIN to make sure, as people do all sorts of crazy mods, and it's not quite 100%, but it will allow you to essentially weed through all the listings under "tundra cluster" in under 30 mins:

1. A limited won't have cloth seats, it will have leather seats
>>watch-out, some SR5 models have a leather interior upgrade
2. If you can SEE the needles and numbers on the clusters in a pic, 99% of the time it's the orange gauges, not the Optitron (the postings have pretty variable pictures posted with them)
3. Limited models tend to have an "upgraded" side mirror cap - chrome (again though, check the VIN)
4. Limited models have the "Limited" logo on the rear of the side of the cab (again - confirm, as people stick all sorts of things on their vehicles)

There are a few things to watch out for I'm not 100% certain on yet:

1. Make sure the engine size is the same (may or may not cause problems) - V6 vs. 4.6/4.7 V8 vs. 5.7 V8
2. Make sure the drivetrain is the same (2WD vs. 4WD - I think the only thing is you may lose the 4WD indicator)
3. Check for tow package or not - if you have it, get one with it; if you don't, and get one with it, you'll have a useless trans temp gauge (not the worst thing in the world, but better than having the two package and losing the gauge!)

I'll add more as I discover more as free time allows.

 

So I looked at my purchase history and the cluster I put in my 08 was listed as going with a 12-13 truck. I went back into the listing and grabbed the VIN from the truck it came out of and it's a flex fuel truck, so that explains the 1/4 tank difference in the gauge. I wonder if that can be remedied?

 

Swap sending units??? Have it reprogrammed?? I dunno??

 

Yeah oddly the FF trucks have a very different sender, maybe more tolerant to extra alcohol?

The electrical connector on the pumps looks identical between the two, so that would plug in. It looks like there are three ports on the flex fuel trucks vs. two on mine, so at worst I would just be melting shut the one I don't want to use.

The port on the right of this photo is the extra port, and it looks like that goes to its own little regulator, so perhaps the fuel return is split to go to the FF ethanol sensor and that is just controlling how much fuel goes through there? This doesn't seem to be the end of the world, and I get a new fuel pump out of the deal.

 

Do you have the VIN? The cluster part numbers between FFV and non-FFV trucks are the same... I'm more inclined to think your cluster came from a 36g fuel tank... But if you can provide your VIN and the donor VIN, we could likely track down the differences...

 

Donor VIN is: 5TFHW5F14DX297799
It went into: 5TFDV54168X081737

 

Here's what toyodiy.com shows:

Donor: cluster 83800-0CM00, fuel tank 77001-0C060 (26.4g)

Your truck: 77001-0C060

Seems like the fuel tanks are the same size. Of course, another wrench into the thought process lol...

If you're not in a rush, we can see what results I get with my gauge and potentially swap? Mine is coming from a non-FFV truck going into a FFV truck...

I'll look at it more tomorrow when I'm on the computer vs. my phone. I know there were some differences in the cluster part number I identified in the 07-09 vs the 10-13, so your issues may be related to that vs the FFB/non...

 

Well the FFV sender is definitely physically different and the donor has it, so I'm probably willing to just toss the fuel pump in and see what happens.

 

There does appear to be 2 distinct part numbers for the sending units:

83320-0C080 for the non-FFV

83320-0C040 for the FFV

 

I swear this is all the research I'm going to do today on this. I stalked several used car sites and found as many examples of the year/engine/drive/trim for each year that I could. Found a few possibly interesting tidbits:

1. 2009 doesn't appear to have offered a Limited trim level?
2. The FFV doesn't appear to be available in 2WD until 2016+
3. The FFV wasn't available in 4WD until 2011
4. The gauge cluster in the 2007 was different part numbers for 2WD/4WD
5. The 2008 cluster is the same as the 2007 2WD cluster
6. The gauge cluster for each year 2008-2011 is the same part number for 2WD/4WD/FFV/non...a single part number, albeit different for each year
7. The gauge cluster for 2012-13 is the same for the non-FFV 2WD/4WD but different for the 4WD FFV

If anyone is super bored and wants to try and fill in the blanks here, that might help. I'll maybe try later when I have some free time. Keep in mind this list isn't necessarily comprehensive...if I have some time I'll look up several example VINs for years to see if anything shifts mid-year or there are other anomalies.

 

Now that I have my handy-dandy chart...I think the explanation isn't the fuel tank, but the year/engine you got it from. Based on my chart, the 2013 FFV are a different part number than the non-FFV, hence why I'd think it's driving your issue with the fuel gauge readings.

Since your truck is a 2008, odds are you'd need a 2008 non-FFV cluster (83800-0CA40) to be an exact match...but I'd guess that maybe the 2008-2011 clusters would work, since the FFV and non-FFV parts are the same. I'm guessing that the sending unit is irrelevant in those cases, otherwise they'd have different cluster part numbers, which the 2012 and 2013 DO have for the FFV (but the 12-13 use the same part number for the non-FFV and FFV).

 

My guess is that would be a yes, and replacing the fuel unit should do the trick. That said, I don't know if there are any concerns in the FFV vs. non-FFV units. It's odd that some years they seem like they may be the same (that, or the cluster accounts for potential differences in signal?) and some years they're different.

 

Now that I know the correct model number, I will just get the right unit instead of trying to make another unit work.

 

That makes the most sense IMO. If it helps anyone figure out the correct cluster they need, I'm glad I did the work!

 

You did an awesome job!! Thanks so much.

 

We'll see when we get our clusters in and they work (...or don't )

 

I applaud the legwork on this and wish you the best of luck!

 

Just got an updated notification my cluster will be here tomorrow. I haven't even looked into the process for swapping it out yet, but I suppose depending on the complexity there's no harm in doing the swap to test/check it out as long as I don't drive anywhere. It would at least validate some of the work I've done. Then again, once I have it it, I won't want to take it out.

Anyone have any insight as to if there's any sort of proper documentation required or I should take (pics, video?) in case the question ever arises about the mileage? My plan is still to swap it when the mileage matches, but just in case. Assuming some day I'll sell or trade in the truck and don't want to invite any questions about the potential for rolling back the mileage...

 

I believe the laws vary from state to state. I would check my local DMV website for more info. They do make stickers for the door jamb to address this issue but I can not speak to the legality of them.

 

I saw something on a Carew Parts website from Tenn yesterday. Said something to the effect that the unit needs to be "programmed to your vehicle or that it will not start". I thought these were plug and play. They were charging $40 to reprogram and correct the mileage.

 

I was able to P&P mine without any reprogram and mileage correction.

 

So this is where the party moved.

Here is one that just came up from an 07
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedomete...Cylinder-Fits-07-TUNDRA-4639200-/144428002133

 

I'm guessing that's a bunch of BS on their end to scare people into thinking they need something done, and to avoid the potential for rollbacks. Who knows, it might be a 'requirement' to sell parts like this. I'm 99.9% certain they're wrong...but if they're offering to reprogram the mileage for $40, that's actually pretty cheap and I'd personally jump on it! I've seen most services in the $75-100 range (not sure if that includes shipping both ways or not).

 

Google helped me here...seems like it's a pretty straightforward process. I used to work at our local Toyota dealership so I may reach out to them to verify and see if maybe they can either repgrogram it for me and/or certify that I'm not doing anything weird. But it's not weird if it feels good, right?

 

I just plugged mine in and kept driving. It shows about 100 more miles than the old cluster, but I should get one of those stickers.

 

Pulling @Ohannon7 in here as well for updates on the Sequoia cluster install.

@Retroboy1989 did you do a swap? Or currently looking?

I'm starting to compile use cases to hopefully get a better idea of which part numbers and trucks may be or are likely interchangeable...

 

One addition I just found out for anyone following:

The 4.7L engines (and V6?) may have different part numbers based on the year/drivetrain/etc. I only have one example right now:

5TBRT58137S451609 2007 4.7 2WD 83800-0C480

That's a different part number than the 5.7 for that year (and the 4WD and 2WD are different part numbers as well for the 5.7).

 

Also, if anyone is looking...these are the current Optitron clusters I've found on eBay...but I'd cross-reference your truck with my original list to at least get a better idea of compatibility.

At least based on a n=1 sample, the 2011 clusters below *should* work on the 2013 model as long as your truck is non-FFV. I'd assume the same goes for the 2012 since the 2012 and 2013 share the same part number for the non-FFV (same for 2WD and 4WD). They would also potentially work in FFV vehicles, but there may be problems with the gas gauge reading due to different fuel pump/sending units.

The 2007 below is a unique part number for 2007 5.7 4WD non-FFV (strange, because the 2WD version is the same for 2007 5.7 non-FFV AND 2008 2WD and 4WD non-FFV).
The 2008 below is the same part number for 2007 5.7 2WD, 2008 5.7 2WD/4WD (all non-FFV, but that appears to be unavailable for those years anyway).

VIN Year Engine Drive Cluster
5TFBV581X7X013408 2007 5.7 4WD 83800-0C570 https://www.ebay.com/itm/275181956434
5TBDV58198S498195 2008 5.7 4WD 83800-0CA40 https://www.ebay.com/itm/194817217411
5TFBY5F16BX200485 2011 5.7 4WD 83800-0CF11 https://www.ebay.com/itm/234416314290
5TFHY5F15BX190705 2011 5.7 4WD 83800-0CF11 https://www.ebay.com/itm/334325766868

Clear as mud?

 

Casually looking. My truck only has 53,000 on it. The mileage matters to me.