What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

well, there you go folks... oil disposal is easy and you wont die!

 

I look forward to oil changes. Not sure why, but it's an easy and satisfying maintenance job for me. Even if I bought brand new vehicle (I don't/won't) I would still prefer to do it myself. I buy a years worth of filters and oil at a time. Used oil goes in 5 gallon bucket and bring it with me to recycling center which I frequent anyways.

 

I have a crazy idea, when you go buy new oil at the auto parts store, dispose of the old oil.

 

Well, that's just crazy talk .... but it makes so much sense! I like it!!!
In fact, I do just that!

 

I've never paid anyone to change my oil since I've always done it myself. It might be cost effective to pay someone else but it's also a nightmare if someone underfills your oil, forgets to put it in, or destroys the oil pan/skid plate in the process.

My used oil goes right back into the 5 quart jug and returned to wally world for disposal. Any quantity beyond 5 quarts stays in the sealed drain container for the next empty 5 quart jug and so on.

Downside to NOT having a basement/garage though are those who wish to use my guest bathroom have a 5 gallon black oil container to rest their arm upon when using the toilet.

 

That's how I was taught to change radiator coolant. start engine, hose in radiator cap, drain cock open, when water comes out clear shut off engine, turn off hose. When radiator stops draining, close petcock, add coolant, add water, replace radiator cap, run until up to temp with heat on. All the wet on the ground will evaporate. Times have changed.

 

Most are. It’s the few bad ones that give a bad name to the rest. Same goes for all professions.

 

Smudge Pot bro.

 

Disposal isn't a problem. I fill 2 or 3 5 qt bottles and drop them off at vatozone while I'm picking up more oil. Takes all of 15 minutes, they even take the filters.

 

Hell, most oil change prices are for 5qts anyways. They'll charge more for our 6.5 qts, or more than likely leave you 1.5 qts low.

Also, which oil should I use? Supertech non syn and a fram filter?

 

I use 40wt veggie oil, whereled peas

 

I'm back on Rotella T6 5w40 or M1 Diesel Truck 5w40.
Cheap, come in gallon jugs, can buy at parts store or supermarket, and excellent oil.

 

I've made a habit of calling O'Reillys or Vatozone to check if their oil tank is full before dropping in. Most of the time the employees don't mind checking.

 

Dammit! Broke my hood protector trying to get around my vehicle when I had to park close to a snowbank because I had to rush into dunkin donuts to fix my order.

Buttholes gave me the order of the guy behind me.

 

On top of that, more water in the gas tank. Had to drop another bottle of deet in it to keep it from stalling out at the lights.

 

@Jack McCarthy we need to talk about the condition of your headlights sir...

 

One of the two primary benefits of bicycles over motorcycles (fitness being the first) is that in a bind, a bicycle can be used as a weapon. I've never been strong enough to swing a motorcycle at a person.
And I agree with you on learning to respect the stopping distances of heavy vehicles. It's amazing watching the dumb MFers around here dive in front of semi trucks as they approach lights or squeeze in front of them in traffic and immediately hit the brakes.

Probably going to whatever hell there is, but I LOL'd pretty hard at this. It's also a lesson for kiddo. I learned as a young BMXer that you can't let people crowd you from behind if they're untrustworthy.

We need to renormalize calling people buttholes.

Best not look at mine either. One of the cleanup guys was going to polish mine as they're pretty yellow...and then didn't because they're also cracking. (on the list for 2022)

 

Is everyone using the cerakote headlight restoration kit now? I think I saw a few people commenting on it. Supposedly guarantees it won't come back to a haze.

 

Unless it's a French bike. Never works with French bikes.

Yeah, my OEM headlights had the same issue. It was hard to really tell until they were polished, though. Check out the 3rd pic over here. I still have my originals, in-box, with good bulbs. I was thinking about buying a cheap set off Amazon and seeing if the lenses would cleanly swap over - if so, it'd be nice to have a spare pair of OEM housings, and maybe I could retrofit projectors into them and re-sell my new OEMs? But I wouldn't know which set of aftermarkets to buy. I do have all the Morimoto Retro Rubber stuff to re-seal the lenses on already from another project I touched on.

I'd love to see where that claim is and how they're backing it up. I'm skeptical. I used the 3M stuff. Really, if you have wet sanding paper and polish, you can do that part without the kit and just go buy some 3M clearcoat wipes at the LAPS for like $3-4. They make it super easy.

 

Supposedly it's the ceramic compound formula that keeps it from hazing back over. I might try it out. I've been using Meguire's headlight restoration but it comes back after a few months following a waxing. I think the road salt has a lot to do with it.

 

I fully intend to retrofit projectors into some BigGurrl headlamps. Minimal risk and if they work out but the lamps are trash, I'll buy better lamps and retrofit those with the 'new' guts.

I am so frustrated that manufacturers have gone away from glass lenses. New glass lenses for the 911 are 60-150 each depending on what lamps you have and if you want any fancy bs like LHD/RHD or yellow or any combination thereof. The rest of the lamp doesn't need to be replaced at all. And the seals can be ordered separately. No need to buy the whole thing over a cracked/pitted/sad lens.

 

I have a crazy stereo thought I need some input on. My sequoia has the JBL stereo with the 3 way speakers with a sperate mid next to the woofer. I actually really like the sound of the stereo, but both front woofers are going out. On the tundra I just replaced everything and pulled the stock amp, the sound is fine, but I can't tune it as well as the Sequoia already is. I'm guessing it's due to the time alignment setting or something, but it's beyond my ability to tune. (I have thought about getting a professional tune)

The Sequoia woofers are 2ohm, so if I replace them with a 4ohm speaker can I combine the mid and woofer wires to the new single 4ohm speaker and have that match the tweeter?

The other option I've considered is running an external amp between the JBL amp and the speaker so I can bump up the power to the woofer, but then I run into the fact that I can't tune anything.

TL/DR - if I wire 2 2ohm speaker wires together, does that double up the power (wattage) to run a 4ohm speaker?

 

What you talkin’ bout Willis? My two Peugeot’s will cause just as much damage as a huffy lol

 

The thing about fighting someone after an encounter while riding is they get back in their car and you are f’d. My dreams of confrontation always involved grabbing their keys first and tossing them into a storm drain. But you never know if they have a spare handy.

Bottom line, any confrontation on the road is a loss. Best to just avoid everything and ignore all the words.

I mostly just consider vehicles as a special kind of wild animal to compartmentalize and suppress my urge to react.

 

This is my thought too, I've just been too lazy/consumed with other stuff to figure out what projector kit would be ideal.

It doesn't work like that. If you have two 4ohm speakers and you wire in series, it becomes an 8ohm load. If you have two 4 ohm speakers and you wire in parallel, it becomes a 2 ohm load.

There are multiple basic consideratons you must have before doing this:

• If wiring in series, you must confirm there's no inline crossover/cap on either of the speakers, many coaxial/triaxial and/or components will have capacitors glued on to ensure no frequencies out of the driver's range are sent to it.
• If wiring in parallel, you must confirm the amplification source can handle a 2ohm load!
• You'd really want to confirm whether each of those two speakers are being driven by the same channel on the amp, or separate channels.
• You really need to know the impedance (ohms) of the other speaker here...

It's also important to know in the car stereo world, the general assumption is your load-per-channel is typically 4ohm, whereas home stuff tends to be 8ohm. Most car audio amps, whether built-in to the head unit or external, are rated and expecting a 4ohm load unless otherwise stated (ex: Some mono amps intended for subs). When you wire down the impedance, you're making the amp work harder which can cause unforeseen and/or undesirable situations, not limited to excessive heat buildup (thermal overload risks). If you don't have specs on the OEM amp, assuming that's what you'd be using, I don't think I'd be going down that path if I were you.

Yeah? My Motobecane and Gitanes would kick your Peugeot's ass.

 

Thanks! I was hoping you'd chime in. The sequoia amp has 3 separate channels for tweeter, mid and woofer (on each side, 6 total). Stock stereo and stock speakers are 2ohm. New woofers would be 4ohm. I was able to figure out the ohms at the amp if I wire the speakers together like two subwoofers, but I'm kind of doing the opposite where I'm wiring one speaker into two amplifier outputs.

The other reason for doing this is if I just hook up the new woofer to the woofer wires, I've lost the mid channel sound.

 

I don't understand what you mean by "lost the mid channel sound".

You also can't wire one speaker into two channels, that'd cause a short. You can wire one channel into two speakers if you get the right amperage/load out of the pair of speakers and none of the speakers in the chain has a crossover/cap which would cut out certain freqs. You can't have two amp channels, both delivering power, terminating into one speaker terminal ... it's the same as jumpering two amp channels together.

But maybe I'm misunderstanding.

Weird JBL would be different, or maybe it's a DC versus AC/RC thing - I'm pretty sure my front components are forked in parallel at the door harness, like, I'm pretty sure my door harness is a Y, where it's two wires at the end, four wires out the other (each harm sending out a pair). I think the speakers may've been 2 ohm, but the harness itself was configured to connect things in series would would result in an overall load of 4ohm. I'd need to go look at my OEM speakers to see what the amperage is, I've still got them in the garage. Be right back!

 

Nope, you got what I'm saying. The way the speakers are set up, the woofer and midrange are connected to the same bracket and the woofer is 7". The aftermarket brackets only fit the woofer (no sperate mid) so I'd be removing the dedicated mid speaker.

 

Ok, this makes more sense, sort of. And yeah, that's totally different from the AC/RC truck front doors, there the woofer and tweeter are in very different places, in in the same general housing.

Is there also a tweeter in the same door, separate from this two-speaker housing?

What is the exact speaker you're installing, out of curiosity, and is it not available in a 2ohm variant?

You said, "The aftermarket brackets only fit the woofer (no sperate mid) so I'd be removing the dedicated mid speaker." ... I don't understand your logic here. I'm taking you for your word that both speakers are 2ohm each, so they must certainly be running in series with both speakers fed by the same two wires/channel, creating a (2 + 2) = 4ohm load. Is there any reason you don't just install the woofer in place of the old woofer, thus pushing a (4 + 2) = 6ohm load to the amp? It's not like you're taking a massive performance hit in doing so.

The ideal situation would be to install direct-replacement OEM-fit components if possible. If not possible, swapping in components with the same impedance in ohms using the same leads (via plug-and-play adapters) would be ideal.

 

I should have a radio again tonight. Harness finally done thanks to @daveeasa sending me some 8 pin male and female connectors. For now I have a jumper connector to make the speakers work. But once the amps hooked up it’ll be a plug and play system.