Agm battery charging..

I ended up picking up a littelfuse 1amp from o'reilly auto for $4 and change to use with a diehard agm 24F.

 

my UltraGauge shows 14.3V typically, never seen it over 14.7V.

 

finished up the install

I installed the fuse you provided a link for off of ebay and everything is working appropriately. I am seeing about 14.6/14.7 at startup and it levels off around 14.2-14.4 until the battery demands more than it goes back up.

 

Wait...

Are you saying the charge voltage never goes below 14.2?

 

Correct, the agm batteries need a higher voltage to recieve a full charge. It says right atop of the x2 battery i have. This is a known modification to perform to get the most out of your agm battery without having to use a plug in charger every now and then.

 

If the battery never reaches saturation then I suppose its OK.

 

Needing some clarity here, doing the GM diode/fuse swap with the ALT-S fuse, is the GM diode also fused or is it strictly a diode? Looking at the wiring diagram for my 2016 and knowing where the fuse is and how the sense wire is run down to the regulator on the alternator, I'm sure as soon as I pop in that diode is the day that wire chaff's, grounds out, catches fire and burns my truck down lol. This concern is also aside from forcing the charging system to work a little "harder" chancing an earlier failure. Ultimately, anyone have insight if the GM diode 12135037 is also fused?

 

From what i have gathered the gm diode is not fused it is just A diode. I purchased this fused diode off ebay and it is working just fine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164706700869

 

Looks like someone just cut the pigtail off an add a circuit and added a diode, making a series circuit with the fuse and diode.

I had my doubts on the GM and one but everywhere you look up it's part number, it's listed as multifunction. At first I was wondering whats multifunctional about it but I'm thinking it's multi application, usable for other various circuits and electrical components.

 

What a great grinchy trick!

 

I ran one of these when I had a AGM.
Not only does is it keep your fused connection, if it trips, it resets after a fault has been removed.

MK2 Micro blade 5A (Electronic fuse version) | HKB Electronics

It worked great, the X2Power AGM not so much.
I think I got a lemon though.

Good luck..

 

I got a little creative, soldered 2 ATM fuse holders lying around, soldered in a low pro fuse tap, and bought the GM diode. Gave myself extra length on the wire so I can tuck it in the open pocket of the fuse box. I'll give this a try in the morning.

 

Just received the MK4 from HKB. Site looks fine to me. https://www.hkbelect.com/product/439-mk4-adjustable-alternator-voltage-booster-2013/

 

Yep site is working for me also.

Have been running the Littlefuse 1amp diode...no issues since.

 

My 2020 limited has the 5 amp alt s fuse. I assume I can use a hkb diode. I see two options. The micro blade and the mini blade. Any suggestions as to which of the two I should get. Thanks. Bob

 

So far so good. I probably have about $25 total invested into this little upgrade including the diode. Didn't grab a picture but the alternator is originally charging at 13.87v. A .55 volt gain, good enough for me. Going to keep an eye on it, just mildly concerned about the longevity of the alternator in the end.

 

Does anyone have a rule of thumb as to when you know you need an agm? I'll be running a winch, lightbar, couple light pods and a few low power goodies, I'm pretty sure nobody would argue the additional load on the truck but is frequency of usage the main factor?

 

I ran a load similar to that on my old 91 suburban with an Interstate battery and an anemic 105 amp alternator. I had a couple of long winch pulls with it too.

 

Any issues with your set up @F0X672 ? Thinking about creating this instead of purchasing the HKB one.

 

@F0X672 where did you find that low pro fuse tap with two wires. All the ones I’m finding locally only have one wire? Thanks in advance.

 

Maintenance and depth of discharge are my primary factors.

AGM doesnt require water additions and generally tolerate deeper discharge cycles without permanent damage. Some AGMs feature higher capacity (fatter, more buxom amperes) than a flooded battery of the same group size.

For me, I like AGM because they dont leak gasses that corrode your terminal clamps. And they're spill proof. And the ones I buy have moar capacity.

 

Good info here.

https://youtu.be/h7rTcBanpMk

 

Tough to get my phone to capture the LCD screen in this light, but I’m up to 14.4 in this photo, from typical 13.7. At start, it hits as high as 14.8 now.
Did the GM diode trick this morning in about 3 minutes. Sand it down with a Dremel and slip it in. Easy. Arrow faces the front of the truck.

 

More importantly, why didn’t Toyota ever give us outlets in the bed? I added a dual USB, 12V socket, and a dual Anderson plug outlet for the beer fridge.

 

Is your bed-setup weatherproof when canopy isn't on?

 

dunno. My canopy is never off. I don’t think I’d be concerned about a little rain, but probably would t submerse it. If it were an open bed, I’d maybe skip the volt meter and switch. Just do the outlets with covers. FYI, the outlet is the same as my boat dash. Water wasn’t an issue for it.

 

Sorry for the long wait. Found the low pro tap off scamazon.

Specialized ECU Repair Car Fuse...

Specialized ECU Repair Car Fuse Holder Connector - Low Profile Mini Blade Type, Heavy Duty Wire Extension for Hard-To-Reach Vehicle Fuse Box Panel - Easy Tap & Test Accessories for Automotive Circuit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G7C37JL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just chopped the tap end off and soldered in 2 weather proof fuse taps (weather proof is unnecessary but it's what I keep in stock in my shop).

 

Could you supply the P/N and source? Thanks

 

Great, thanks.