Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Thanks for responding, I’m sure I could find a used one to replace it with or perhaps buying new? Would we know what the part number would be for it? Also do we know typically what gauge wire is used under the power distribution block? Thanks.

 

New would be quite a bit. Used would be the way to go on an older truck. All wiring to the power distribution box is with connectors so no concern for adding wiring.

 

Plenty of warranty left. The Shiny TuRD just had her 2nd birthday, and I haven't put 24k miles on her yet.

I didn't renew the subscription, so the fob is all I get. If they 'set a code' and turn remote start via the fob off I'm going to throw a tantrum...

 

Quick question, how much resistance should the fan have? I may be remembering wrong, but should be able to spin freely when off correct?? had some resistance as in moving 1 or 2 blades, when off obviously.

 

With a viscous fan clutch, there's still going to be some resistance. An electric fan will be more free wheeling.

 

^^^^ this

 

@Ruggybuggy
battery terminals looked pretty good. positive was clean and I didn't take it off. brushed the negative terminal and clamp. after disconnecting the battery and starting it normally (twice), remote start seems not to be working.

 

Why don't you just take it in? You have warranty left.

 

yessir. that's next.

thanks for the conversation. havagoodn.

 

Any idea what version of TS you need to update the info to the ECU? I have the sensor IDs I need loaded, just don’t know how to actually do it… TIA

 

Because you have a 2021 you need the latest version. I'm not sure if there is a download that's available for Techstream that will do the 2021. Do a search on the forum. I have a copy that works for my 2020 but would not do a 2021. I would give you the version but I'm on vacation in FL for the next month and don't have my laptop available.

Once you have a copy of the
Techstream you will need the interface for the obdII as well. You go to the tpms module then utilities.

 

So I’m trying to install Fog Lights in to my SR.
I’ve got the Fog lights in and am now trying to put in a Relay so I can than put the new light/fog light switch.

I’m using this forum post as an example: https://www.tundras.com/threads/adding-fog-lights-on-tundras-without-them.5098/#post-73034

But the issue I’m having is there is no place to put the relay in into the fuse box.

I know i can technically hard wire the fogs into an empty slot on dash, but would really like to control it from the column.

Anyone have any experience with this? It’s a 2014 SR 4.0 V6 DC

 

It doesnt appear to be the same power distribution center. I no longer have access to Toyota wiring diagrams so I'll rely on you.

 

Here’s a better look at the fuse box and cover

 

i am not sure if that really answers my question… my truck has the wiring for the fogs at the bumper, but where is it going to in the fuse box? I’ve found the OEM relay diagrams and there’s supposed to be a fog slot right around the “Sub batt“ and “MG CLT” for the relay, but my truck doesn’t have it. Are the wires just tucked somewhere under the fuse box?
would they be going under the dash for any reason to be installed directly to a switch? I havent looked under the dash yet
The truck was bought brand new so there’s no worry that someone did something weird.

 

Your going to have to get a wiring diagram for the exterior lights. You can then dig up were the wires go to by color and doing a few continuity tests using an multimeter you should be able to see what's going on.

 

@Ruggybuggy - I need to adjust the OEM LED Fog Lights that I just installed that replaced the original halogen fog lights. Is there a standard way of doing the aiming similar to how us rednecks aim or headlights using a wall from 30 feet mark the hot spot and so on?

 

The "redneck" method works well and is actually the way that Toyota does it. I believe it's 25' and a inch down from the hot spot. The method I like to use is to bring the truck up very close to a wall. Turn on the lights and use tap to mark the hot stops on the wall. You want to place the tape at the cut off line above the hot spot. Back straight back for 25'. Look on the wall and see that your hotspots have fallen 1 inch from the tape marks. With the fogs it can be tricky and depending on your lights but you don't want any scattered light above the tape marks. Good luck with the adjustment screw of the fogs, it can be a pain to adjust.

 

Thank you! That's how I shall do it! The master has directed me so.

 

My AC is making a louder noise. I thought it was the idler bearing, but I've confirmed it is the HVAC unit. AC appears to work fine with the exception of a slightly burnt smell every now and then on the inside, this week is apparent on the outside.

My question is, should I replace the clutch assembly or the entire compressor??

 

By the HVAC unit are you referring to the compressor? If the compressor is gone I would do both. You would hate to do the compressor and have the clutch fail a couple of months later. The compressor change is not really a do it yourself job because the system will need to be flushed to remove and contaminated from the system. Also the receiver drier will need to be replaced. Just doing only the compressor would result in another compressor failure because the material from the failed compressor will contaminate the new compressor. Compressor remanufactures normally required a professional to install and a flush is mandatory if you don't want to void the warranty. The desiccant (reciever drier) is located in the condenser and is removed through a opening port. On older trucks especially in the salt belt the port is impossible to remove and will require a new condenser.

 

I know the compressor needed to be drained and filled professionally.. Guess I'll invest in a new compressor... better now than summer...

 

The compressor itself can come two ways. Dry or with some oil installed. If it has oil in it then you drain and record the amount removed then add in the exact amount the the repair manual says for compressor replacement. It the right amount of oil isn't added to the system compressor failure will occur (to little oil) or the AC will not cool enough (too much oil).

 

Is there a particular method to remove the squirrel cage from a Toyota blower motor? This is my first time seeing one with this sort of plastic clip on top. I took it out to clean it and got water on the shaft. I'm pulling it apart to re-grease the bearings. When I was cleaning it I wasn't careful enough and sprayed a bunch of copper colored grease out of the top of the motor (under the squirrel cage). After a few hours of operation it started to make a slight grinding sound.

Also is there a particular type of grease to use? If I need to replace it, who is the OEM manufacturer?

 

Mine didn’t look like that. When mine quit I checked with Napa but the OEM Toyota part was cheaper and better built. I think it was made by Denso

 

When we get the part from Toyota it already has the fan attached. It's considered a non serviceable part. I have take some apart but it take two people. One person holds the fan on the sides with both hand and the second person uses a small punch and hammer to tap on the shaft motor. Make sure the motor false onto something soft.

 

Thanks! I used 6 2x4s to build a little stand and tapped it off with a punch and hammer. Cleaned it up and put a drop of gun oil where the shaft hits the plastic on each side and the slight drag noise went away. We'll see how long it lasts, seems like it took care of my previous mistake.

EDIT: If anyone else does this be careful of the metal tabs that go in the plug spot when taking it apart. Mine were jammed up against a piece of the wood and bent a little.

EDIT2: @bfunke I think it depends on the generation. When i started pulling it apart I found a Toyota & Denso sticker.

EDIT3: Well, that didn't last long. It seemed to be fine when i put it in, ran for 20 min on low/medium setting. Turned it to high setting and it burnt out. Ordering a new OEM unit.

 

I’ve got a weird click coming from my front right wheel. While driving it’s a tick/ click that’s very hard to hear from inside the car but obvious from outside. When I step on the brakes it is said to get louder and recently it started clicking loudly when I step on the brakes and when I release the brakes. I can’t hear it with my windows up and there’s no crazy vibration when I’m stopping. Honestly if it wasn’t for the noise I wouldn’t know something was wrong. This is on a 2WD 2012 Tundra with 35’s. Any tips or guidance would be greatly appreciated! I work alot so hoping to fix this on the weekend!