What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Which magnet you get?

 

Yeah, cheapest I could go was around 1,000 for both, no wrecker has any not rusted ( upstate NY) so I'll give these a shot, even if I get a year or two out of them they'll get me mobile again. I'll update on them when they arrive and see how they fit, they say they are 14 gauge, so even if they are shit metal they should give me a bit of use.

 

I didn't get one! Not happy about that...

 

Thats a hate crime.

 

Shit I need to do in addition to this:
Clean the ever living shit out of the interior
Seat belt refurb
Wrap hood and roof in black
Get clear coat fixed so it stops peeling on various panels
Get 33x10.5x16 tires to fit lift


Oh, I'm gonna win the "back from the dead" award this year. This poor truck is hours from the crusher as it sits. Any sane person would send it off. But no, I'm a fucking degenerate who loves this worthless hunk of metal. It will survive. It will be good once more. And it will look like shit because if I don't wrap the hood and roof it will have the glorious sunburn the elements gave it. And I'm seriously planning on going that route.

400,000 miles isn't that unfathomable in my future. Fuck the paint, let's make this the highest mileage, semi capable tundra ever.

 

Does ECGS make a bearing for us? Needed if lifting? I hear that all the time on turd gen but haven’t done either yet. Perhaps it’s time.

 

They do, I’ve got the removal tool if needed.
Usually needed after a lift but not necessary. More of a peas of mind thing

 

They do. @FrenchToasty has a whole thread about it in the stickies.

 

I will hunt for this part. Dumb me never thought of it before.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ecgs-bushing-tool.59664/



Oh, BTW @FrenchToasty, I'd like to borrow your tool on the 1st weekend of April. What would you like from the amarillo area in return?

 

Also, when I replace the cv axles, is this what I need?

 

I need to take the driver side seal off there

Fixed it:



So do I need anything else for the passenger side?

 

No but you’d want the driver side seal as well. The bushing is on the driver side, but if your replacing CVs you’d want to do seals on both sides

 

I put the drivers side with the bushing itself. Should be good, right?

 

Sorry I missed that cliff note hidden in there, yeah, should be gravy

 

Did the following, more on this later:

• Confirmed torque on valve cover bolts @ 53in#
• Replaced serpentine belt w/better gates HD green belt (old had plenty of life, probably stupid of me)
• Swapped out 100A alt with 130A alt
• Realized some asshole before me ripped out the passenger wheel well splash guard previously in the process
• Cleaned throttle body since I had easy access while doing the alt/serp (sad, I failed to take pics)
• Took a test drive to Guitar Center to get a new input jack for a recent guitar acquisition

New alt and serp belt installed



Startup after, this is always a good sign.



Old belt condition, this probably has another 20k miles on it at least, but seemed like it was browning on the smooth side, and I wanted (prefer) Gates HD belt anyway.

 

How is that coming along?

 

Nice work.
How was the removal/install on the alternator? Been thinking about pulling mine for a preemptive brush inspection, 18 years and 150k on the original.

 

Just need the top nut now. It's the only thing I couldn't source locally. I went in and cleaned everything up, fixed a couple of other issues. I'm just one nut away.

 

I heart gates on bicycles and would have gladly done that for the Tundra if I knew it was an option. For sure next time I replace I'll go Gates if I can remember.

 

Ordered up my axles, on to ECGS order. Wondering if I do combo Taco and Tundra or just focus on Tundra for now...

 

That's great about the alt and green belt, been a few weeks with the alt stuff. I only ran some edge stuff that @FrenchToasty linked and some loom and zip ties under the hood. Good for a lazy Sunday.

 

My advice:

Skidplate off. Neg batt cable off. You'll need 3 deep well sockets (10mm, 12mm, 14mm) and a 14mm long-ass wrench, if I recall.

Start by doing what I show above with popping intake out of the way, and zip-tying the refrigerant line out of the way. Release serp belt tension, remove belt.

Remove the top nut and bottom bolt completely from the power steering pump. Back the top bolt fully out of the power steering pump but leave it in place. I think this was 14mm on the bolts, 12mm on the nut. You must do this or the alternator won't have room to slide out.

I found it easiest to go in thru the wheel well to access the alternator, pop the wiring harness bolt off, then squeeze to remove the connector, then 10mm to take the power wire off. pop off its three 14mm fasteners. You may need to remove the splash guard to get access, but it's so much easier going this way, direct access, great line of sight. No need to remove wheel or jack up unless you're a really big boy.

This is the 1st and easier bitch part - may be easier if you unbolted the bracket holding (tranny?) lines to the bottom of the block. But basically, slide the power steering pump forward with one hand while sliding the alternator forward and off its top stud. I was able to spin/rotate the alt around to drop out, but take your time, it's not hard, just gotta get the right position, pay attention to which direction its pulley was facing when it finally drops out.

This is the 2nd and worse bitch part. Slide the new alt back up in place same way the old came out. Then push the power steering pump forward again with the goal of getting the top ear of the alternator onto its stud - as long as that one is on, you can pivot to get the other on. Hand-tight the fasteners on the alt, the power steering pump.

From there, reinstall is opposite of uninstall. See notes above about serp belt.

I keep a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of copper pipe in the shop to use for leverage so I don't need to bust knuckles. I probably tightened everything down to about 2-3 ugga duggas or so. I really need to get the proper torque specs for the PS pump and alt fasteners and follow up. I tightened them enough to ensure they won't back out.

Took me about 90 mins total, including cleanup.

 

I'm throwing some new cardone axles in mine, long story. Do I need these seals?!

 

Here's the edge trim. Photos haven't synced yet.

Plastic Edge Trim Black Small, Fits Edge 1/16 to 1/8", Length 5 Feet (1.55 Meter)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C93LDM6?ie=UTF8

 

It’s advised to use new seals

 

Better pics

 

Oh, and I guess I should update since I'm about 5 hours / 200 miles out on that ATP

$19 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 treatment. I've still got a little dribble of a leak. It definitely quelled about 80% of it, but after using it, waiting 200 miles per their instructions, it's pretty clear I'm just gonna need to replace my valve cover gaskets and redo FIPG.

Is it recommended to go with OEM on the VC gaskets, coil pack gaskets, and VC washers? Or is it generally accepted that FelPro is a viable alternative? Not sure what to expect for longevity differences here.

No stranger to engines, but I won't front like I'm super-experienced with the 2UZ-FE or other Toyota engines in general, I've said a hundred times on here I grew up in a GM world. I'm normally a FelPro guy through and through, regardless what manufacturer's stuff I was working on.

 

Put a long steel rod on my alternator today and that bearing is noisy. Anyone pulled one apart for bearing and brush replacement? I don't need anything powerwise other that what I have stock.

 

Nice writeup, appreciate it.