Brake Replacement Options

Will do thanks.
I found on previous forums with the 2010 models and thereabouts, the oem breaking system was under powered and would cause severe braking wobble/shimmy in which we unfortunately found out for ourselves on our first trip with it. I upgraded to the TRD rotors and brakes and problem was solved. Now we have a 2019 and I guess Toyota solved that problem.
I guess I was over thinking the problem to the 2019 model but I will post back once I change the pads on my next brake service.

 

Yes there is

 

Yeah I know those exist. I have them in my garage. But there are no “trd style rotors” that come on tundras. There are TRD rotors for a big brake kit. There ARE trd pads that work with the stock rotors. So... whatcha talking bout Willis.

 

That's what I was talking about. On the 2010, the oem brake system was under powered. I went to these, which the rotors and brake pads were changed out. So yes, TRD did make these. This system helped us out quite a bit and fixed the problem we were having under braking.
Lastly, no need to be rude, Willis

 

Jeez people are sensitive Sally’s. I wasn’t being rude at all. I’m confused what you’re saying. Re reading with all this context you put the TRD big brake kit on your truck. Neato! I bought those for my truck but am not willing to go with 20s so there they sit.

 

Great

 

Yup

 

The $2700 big brake kit is far from standard oem.

 

The stock pads don't have brake dust, but the TRD pads generate tons of dust. I had the stock ones before I changed to the TRD pads and can't really feel the difference between the two. I may end up going back to the stock pads because I don't want to deal with brake dust.

 

I have a 2017 sr5 and like the oem pads since I don't tow and low dust. I've been looking and have found some on ebay and went to the Toyota site but come up with 2 different part numbers. Can anyone help me with the correct oem part number? Here are the 2 numbers I've found. dealer 044650C020
EBAY 04465-AZ220
Is there a difference? Also need rear brakes too thanks

 

So what did they say?

 

They require 20” or larger wheels.

 

This is not a correct statement. 07-10 Tundra did not have slots for cooling in the dust shield and toyota issued a tSB to replace them. After the modification you did not get any new hardware except two new dust shields with air vents.

Whomever told you that you needed to buy 20" rims and that $3K big brake kit took your money and is a jerk. As they flat out lied to you.

If you aren't going to go 20's then sell those no longer in production from Toyota (see Brembo) that replaced them big brake kit.
or i'd happily take them off your hands. Just can't justify 2700 bucks for a larger rotors.

 

PowerStop will do nothing. I purchased thru a vendor and have to contact them with any issues. I was planning to run over there last Saturday and ended up with covid on Thursday. I haven't reached out to Summit yet.

 

My PowerStop Z36 front rotors glazed. I purchased thru Amazon, but I called PowerStop and they provided a new set of rotors and pads.........

 

My truck already has 20 inch rims on them so going with the bigger TRD brakes was a no brainer.

 

I second the Stop Tech slotted Cryo treated rotors.

I paired with TRD brake pads and braided steel brake lines. I love the setup. The braking is smooth and progressively aggressive as you get your foot into the pedal. Such a good feeling over stock.

These rotors:
https://www.buybrakes.com/stoptech-126.44157csr-cryo-sport-slotted-brake-rotor-right

These Pads:
https://parts.freemantoyota.com/oem...nmllG9umhE76Xb8qDHEb_cqHVHJ9aBMYaApIrEALw_wcB

These brake lines:

$155+ Goodridge G-Stop Brakeline Kit

https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/bra...Stop+Brakeline+Kit&group=G-Stop+Brakeline+Kit

after feeling the difference I would never go back to stock

 

My new to me truck had new brakes put on it right before the original owner traded it in. I noticed the rotors are drilled and slotted and the pads seem to have a lot of thickness left in them. However, they pulsate at times and they dust like hell! I don't know what brand they are but in the future I'm going back with all OE equipment on my brakes. Either that or I'll buy the AutoZone rotors and pads because they do a lifetime warranty on them. Buy once and you're good for the rest of the life of the truck. That's what my father does. He drives a 1-ton because he uses it for a living. Goes through brakes about once every 18-24 months due to miles. Just takes the stuff back into AutoZone and they give him all new stuff.

 

Why not buy OEM brakes and rotors.

My ford f250 diesels brakes lasted 9 yrs and 200k miles, they were still good when I sold the truck.

I would pull my 8,000 lbs trailer 1000 miles a year.

If I replaced brakes every 24 months that would be like 5 brake jobs. Where is the savings in that?

My old 1/2 ton GMC truck I went through Brakes every 25k miles, after the fourth set I sold the truck.
I was only pulling my small 4k trailer at that time.

 

Got my first Tundra 4X4 1794 in 14' eight plus years ago. I replaced the OEM with EBC 3 or 4 years ago as I drive hard and was sick of warping my rotors. We bought a Lance 2465 trailer July 2020, last year I decided to upgrade the whole braking system with PowerStop Z36 Truck and Tow, also replaced brake lines with braided lines. So far I've towed the trailer weighing around 8,000 and change about 5,000 miles since upgrade and so far I feel they are definitely an upgrade with the double cylinder calipers. I have not noticed any scorching and trust my I drive hard. No chance I replace what I have now and I agree the EBC pads spew dust heavily. These ProStop pads don't put out nearly as much dust. I will be keeping an eye to see if I see any scorching of the rotor or if I notice any sponginess in the pedal.

 

So I installed the PowerStop Z36 Pads & Rotors and drove 6500 miles to Arizona and back to the midwest over 6 weeks towing my 8,000 lb camper. The brakes performed very well with no pedal pulsation at any point and handled all the grades including the climb up to Davis Mountains State Park and down to the bottom of Palo Duro Canyon in Texas. Had a great time and stayed in San Antonio, Sedona, Zion and Santa Fe to name a few places. I just did my post-trip maintenance which included a tire rotation so took a good look at the rotors and pads. Everything looked really good - no evidence of any discoloration, streaks or stripes on the rotors. Some small amount of dust in the slots but no abnormal build up on the wheels.

Very satisfied so far with the PowerStop Z36 brakes on my Tundra. So much so that I have switched to PowerStop for recent brake installs on the rest of the vehicles in the family "fleet". Just installed PowerStop pads & rotors on the rear of an '05 T4R and rear of an '02 Camry.

 

I've had the PowerStop Z36 Pads & Rotors for about 6 years now (~40k miles). In my opinion, their braking performance is on par with the stock pads and rotors under normal driving conditions, but much better at delaying heat related brake fade when towing on steep grades. I've also replaced all of the rubber brake lines with stainless steel braded lines, upgraded to DOT 4 brake fluid and replaced the stock calipers with PowerStop calipers that use epdm o-rings for better heat tolerance.

The pads and rotors work well when they're new, but the rotors corrode and wear quickly. The cross-drilling and slots start out substantial and distinct, but after about a year they get filled with a lot of rust scale and brake dust. I've had to change the pads 3 times so far and the pad wear indicators (squealers) have not worked on any of them. That's ruined 3 rotors so far because the first indication of trouble has been grinding and pulsing sensations through the pedal.

Since you can't buy individual rotors I've now replaced the front rotors once and the rear rotors twice since the original installation. Each time, the outer pad was less worn than the inner pad which isn't completely abnormal. The outer pad had about 1/3 thickness left, but the inner pad was worn down to the backing plate and was galling on the rotor. The caliper floating pins were all well lubed and moved freely so the immediate problem was that the pad wear indicators (squealers) didn't make any noise before the pad was spent and the rotor was ruined.

But even the parts of the rotors that haven't been damaged by a spent brake pad seem to only last as long as the first set of pads here in the Northeast. The non-wear surfaces (including the cross-drilling holes and slots) have been covered in thick, scaly rust within a single year. The rust scale fills the cross-drilling holes and slots so that they can't cool the rotors or vent the friction gasses between the rotor and pad so I may as well have a normal smooth rotor at that point.

Maybe I'll try the StopTech slotted rotors even though they are much more expensive than the PowerStop rotors.