Crackhead resurrection

By far, the only downside of my tundra. Peope look at it and know i’ll protect it. The titan is questionable, its loose, but not dirty. The jeep says i dont have insurance or a license. (I had both) but, the respect that earns is priceless. Even my s10 was too clean to get the dilligaf respect.

 

Just got done cleaning several connectors, and applying dielectric grease. All four oxygen sensors, the MAF, some things on the evap box thingy, the wiper motor connector, and the ATF temp sensor connector.

Going to reset codes, and watch live data as I drive to town, and back. May just let Bruce see what he makes of it as it's finally starting to get cold.

Oh, more fluid film too.

 

Well, I never actually left or got out of the driveway. Cleared P0125, and then watched live data while idling and racing per the FSM.

Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I think that's driver side rear, there are two listed in the FSM. Weird) is still not reading anything. Crawled under the truck while it was running, and measure the resistance of the sensor. 19.5 Ohms.


Also measured voltage on the two "top" pins on the truck side. (+B and HT per the diagram above) 13.32 VDC. Measured the bottom two pins and didn't get anything.

 

Something that I did notice while I was crawling around down there with no jacket on was I could feel a lot of exhaust leaks with my hands around the welds.

I'm thinking of using something like JB weld Steel stik to seal those up. Doesn't have to last very long. It just has to last long enough for me to be able to figure out this P0125 code.

Could be that I'm losing too much heat or too much flow due to leaks or that I need those spacers that @empty_lord linked for @FrenchToasty.

Steel stik?

 

@Tundra2 Pics of the leaky areas would help. I have extensive experience of trying just about every off the shelf solution for exhaust leaks short of replacing the pipes (until i did). Although, I havent tried JB weld.

 

Give me a few minutes. Most of them are on the "top" of the pipe where crackhead couldn't get the stick welder in between the cab and the pipe.

 

A soup can and a couple worm clamps make a cheap pipe repair.

 

Here you are. The first two pictures go together.


This is the otherside of that pipe.


Driver side upstream with just a pin hole on top of it. I can't see it, but I can feel it.


And then at this flange.

 

I don't think that it's a coincidence that most of my leaks are near the sensor that doesn't seem to work.

 

I'm just trying to understand how this was butchered in the past.

I'm taking a closer look on my computer. The pics on the phone don't show very well.

 

That first arrow should be further up the pipe near the weld like so. That was my bad for trying to rush.

 

So, correct me if I'm wrong, but the collector flange after the upstream sensor was removed and is that an aftermarket cat or resonator afterwards?

If you have enough "meat" (metal thickness) on what was put in there, it could be cut out and sleeved with a new pipe section. The JB weld approach is probably a quick fix if it'll work. I would think you need to clean up the weld area to show clean metal so it'll stick. I'll defer that to someone with better knowledge.

Probably the same with the semi-flex joint where it could be removed entirely and new metal put in to fix it. You COULD try the bandage wrap approach, but I've only done that on colder sections of the pipe where it probably wouldn't smoke from the heat.

The flange leak...would a new gasket in between the two pipes help or is that strictly a leak on the junction of the flange and the pipe?

Unfortunately, they all look like tricky areas to fix I'm afraid.

 

These are straight pipes Jack. They aren't aftermarket anything. These are literally pipes they had laying around that they stuck on here with the worst welds I've ever fuckin seen

Think I'll just take it to Bruce if my steel stick adventure doesn't work.

 

Now that I'm looking at it and understanding it more, the butt welds really should have had the replacement pipe section "opened" up or flared out so that it would fit OVER the existing upstream pipe and welded instead of the butt weld that was done.

 

I'll show you what was done to replace mine. Hold on while I snap a few pics.

 

I would bet $100 that the farm cut the cats off and just welded these on here before selling it to make extra scratch.

Maybe I should go el-cheapo with rock auto until I make a decision. Really leaning towards long tubes........

 

Mine don't seem to be a helluva lot better with rusting aluminized pipes.

Had i known about the shortage of trucks I would've spent the extra $100 to get stainless steel.

Looks like the welding filler material is what's causing the rust.

 

Thanks for taking the time to snap these. At least whoever did yours welded on the right oxygen sensor bungs. Lol

 

If you do get it redone, I would suggest you supply the bungs in stainless steel since nobody at these shops carry them. They only have mild steel.

 

Everyone likes a polished bung hole

 

Where would one order a Polish bunghole?

 

You can polish any bunghole, but just get stainless is what I think he was getting at, summit has a bunch, I can’t remember if I used stainless or mild

 

A SS bunghole?
https://youtu.be/LHv2dIM3t9I

 

Yaaas.

 

Tomorrow I'll have some steel stick delivered. If that doesn't seem to work I'll order some of those spacers EL linked. They have a miniature catalytic converter in them.

If that doesn't work I'll tear apart thr glove box to see which ECM part number I have/need.

I didn't think to check live Data while I had the sensor unplugged but it didn't pop a check engine light.

That would open that circuit and should have popped a CEL for that. Yes?

 

Ordered two of the mini-cats from mad hornets. Won't hurt to have laying around.