Should I replace my factory brake controller?

So I've read all the posts about the factory controller on my 16 and seems everyone is mixed on it. So I've towed my 7500lb travel trailer all last summer about 4000 miles. most of the time it seems o be working but sometimes seems like it doesn't want to stop. I have heard that you should be able to lock up your trailer brakes with full gain is that true? mine do not lock up. Do I stick with factory or do I get a p3?

 

If you're not getting consistent braking from the controller get one that is consistent before you or someone else gets hurt.

 

not sure that its not consistent, just don't know if replacing it will make it better or not?

 

What were the circumstances when you felt that you had inadequate braking?

@ColoradoTJ has considerable experience with trailering, perhaps he may offer some advice.

 

It's when I need to stop quicker. Maybe just not possible to stop that much weight. Just seems like it could be better if I switch to electric over hydrolic it stops better but jerky not smooth at all. I know my brakes are not hydrolic just trying different settings.
I was hoping for some input from Coloradotj or anyone else who has experience with both factory and aftermarket controllers

 

On my 17 sr at the beginning of my trip is weak..so. I heat up the pads my manually triggering the brakes a couple of times the braking power comes back..is not just the controller the pads can get crystalized and reduce efficiency..

 

I was hoping someone that has changed out factory controller for aftermarket would chime in. I think I'm gonna order a p3 and install temporarily to try out. If it's better than oem I'll order the esp panel for it

 

I am one who gave up on the factory IBC, installed a Prodigy P2 ( because that;s what I had in my Dodge and have in my 2015 Tacoma. Removed the factory unit, enlarged the hole in the panel, and used industrial velcro to hold the Prodigy in place. The factory IBC appears to be a time based controller and the Prodigy is inertia based, and works like a brake controller should. The cable for the P2 is a 3017 and plugs into the cable removed from the back of the IBC.

 

@Tundraplatinum based on what you are saying, I would immediately switch to an aftermarket brake controller. I swapped mine out a few weeks ago and it was probably the best mod I've made to my truck.

I installed a P3 with the ESP panel.

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My factory IBC couldn't adequately or safely stop my camper to my satisfaction under normal driving conditions and it only weighs 2,800 lbs (dry weight). I can't imagine how dangerous it would have been trying to stop something much larger in an emergency situation.

 

Thanks guys. Ordered p3. Going on another trip 9th so I'll report back then

 

So I got my p3 few days ago, got my esp mount today. Popped that thing in there in like 5 minutes but now my dash says check trailer brake controller see dealer. My truck is 16 platinum, is there a easy fix for this?

 

unhook the battery, I left mine disconnected for like 20 minutes, error message gone

 

will do, thank you

 

X2 on p3. Mine works very well pulling a 9300lb trailer and having the gain set at 10. You don't want your trailer breaks to lock up under full gain though from what I understand.

 

Battery disconnect solved error messages. Now wait till Friday's trip to niagara falls to see how it works

 

3 and half hours to Canada today. P3 definitely better than factory. But gain is all the way up still doesn't lock up wheels. brakes on trailer are self adjusting and trailer only 1 year old. I know they say adjust to right before wheels lock up?

 

Take another look at the P3 manual, in addition to the gain setting there are 3 boost settings. This is very useful for trailer unloaded/loaded scenarios and perhaps for your situation.

 

On the way back home from that trip the brakes started really working good had to keep lowering the gain setting I've done a few more trips and brakes work amazing.
Only thing I can figure is my travel trailer has automatically adjusting brakes I think the factory controller wasn't applying them enough for them to adjust themselves

 

May be a dumb question, If I’m replacing the factory brake controller, can I install the P3 into the same spot that the factory one was in or do I have to buy the panel also?

 

I enlarged the opening of the IBC panel so the Prodigy would fir, then used some industrial velcro on the bottom of the prodigy and the bar of the dash to hold it in place.

I got a 2018 a few weeks ago, and the IBC works great as the earlier model should. Set up is different with choices of electric and electric over hydraulic, and o to 5000 pounds and over 5000 pounds. The bar graft is progressive not all or none. World of difference.

 

Do you think the 2018 IBC will work with my 2014 Tundra or will the software not be compatible? I know i can change out the trim panel to install the Factory controller just not sure if it will work in my truck.

 

My guess is that the 2018 will not work because the user interface in the dash display is entirely different along with the controls on the steering wheel. The unit in the dash looks the same.