2000-2006 Tundra big brake upgrade kit (14WA calipers)

What year Tundra do you have? AC or DC? Thanks for reporting back. I'm still on the fence.

 

I have 05 AC 4 wd with 177k on the clock. I posted some pics [ well my daughter did lol] on the softtopper thread. Was also on the fence.
I hated that feel of shit I hope this truck is going to stop in time, after a few of those it got me off the fence. As I said there is a big difference, very happy I did it.

 

Gotta ask. At any point in time when you press your brakes does it feel ‘scary’ and then the brakes finally catch?

Stoked on your success!

 

Never had that feeling, brakes catch as soon as pressure on pedal. Truck just feels safer now.Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing the change.

 

Nice. Any feedback from mechanic on condition of old Calipers? Seized/frozen pistons etc?

 

Negative, nothing mentioned only on how all new parts bolted right up and the 3.5 mm milling on calipers where dead on

 

I have just completed an upgrade of brake components on my 04 DC and wanted to post some notes. The truck has 201,000 miles and the brakes seemed weak and pulled right when applied. I've owned the truck 2 months.
The rear brakes were not functioning at all due to rust issues. Backing plates were rusted thru and shoes were barely worn but not functional due to rusting of all brake parts and lack of adjustment. The entire rear brake assembly was replaced along with new rear bearings. The drums were cleaned, painted and reused as they had very little mechanical wear. I was surprised that the truck stopped as well as it did considering the rears were not helping at all.

Front brakes were stripped off while I replaced lower ball joints, shocks, springs, and tie rod ends. I actually found a very small leak in the passenger side steel brake line above the frame. The 2 way junction which mounts to the frame top and all lines to the calipers were replaced and included stainless hoses.

I sourced 14WA calipers from Ebay which were nicely plated silver and cost about $50 bucks each. I milled 150 thousandths off the mounting ears and painted the bare steel where I machined away the plating. Matching rotors were also bought, degreased and painted black on non functioning areas.

When mounting the new calipers, I noticed that the mounting bolts were not fully seated even after being torqued down. The caliper had slight play in the mount so they were removed and parts inspected to determine the problem. The threaded holes where the calipers mount were either rusted at the end of the hole or were never completely tapped thru from the factory. I ground down the first four threads of the caliper mounting bolts which allowed the bolts to seat properly.

After mounting all new brake parts, I spent a half day purging air from the brake lines but could not get a firm pedal. I tried to adjust the rear pad clearance with no success so pulled the drums off and adjusted the pads for a tighter fit. Reassembled the rear brakes and did a 4th round of bleeding which resulted in a long pedal throw but functioning brakes. After adjusting the rear pads even a bit tighter, I had a slightly spongy pedal but good braking.

I let the brakes sit one day, (which sometimes helps the small bubbles migrate) and bled once more with slight improvement. Then I took the truck on my gravel driveway and did a series of crash stops from 25 to 30 mph to activate/purge the ABS module. I could hear the ABS working on these sliding stops.
One more round of bleeding and SUCCESS! A very firm pedal and great stopping on pavement.

I cannot compare my current brake efficiency with previous due to the poor condition of the system, but must say that the brakes now function as well as my 2012 F250 and even better than my 05 Titan brakes.

 

@JohninHunt thanks for sharing all that. Just to clarify, do you still have long pedal travel or was that also solved after the last round of bleeding? The more I read on this the more I think air is the common issue here. I'm thinking about buying a reverse brake bleeder to try.

 

This kit worked really good, super simple to use
https://www.speedibleed.com/k800b-toyota-lexus-brake-bleeder-kit.html

 

FGV, The pedal travel is about 4". I believe air in the system causes a "squishy" pedal along with longer throw. Correct adjustment of the rear pads is critical for a short pedal stroke.
In the old days we used to adjust the pads until they would completely stop wheel movement then back off the star wheel about 1 rotation. This helped eliminate slack in the assembly and may be a useful method of adjustment even today.
Removal of air trapped in the ABS and the very serpentine lines, especially in the RF brake line is also key.

 

That does look nice. I'm tempted to try something outside the box though. I had the guys at the shop pressure bleed my system. They are either idiots, or just couldn't get all the air out.
Empty Lord was the one that said he likes to reverse bleed. The thought being that air naturally wants to go up, not down.

This company(Phoenix) claims it's the only way to really bleed ABS without a scan tool. "Patented Reverse Bleeding removes more trapped air than any other brake bleeder by simply pushing Brake Fluid fluid from the bottom up. Reverse bleeding is the only method capable of bleeding tough ABS units without a scan tool."

 

I wonder if Australians have an easier time bleeding brakes since they live upside-down.

 

I agree with the reverse bleed method. Those bubbles do want to rise naturally so don't fight it!

 

I’m no scientist, but the Bosch Fluido Suprémõ is low viscosity and is less prone to bubbles thus bleeds faster and more efficiently. *Disclaimer* I slept at Motel 8 last night.

 

They sure don't have to worry about their windows when rolling up because down is up....well anyway

 

@googlydoodle

A shout out to you? Fast forward to 6:06.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IzgpI9bRAA

 

Can you elaborate more on the aluminum tubing? I'm in a similar situation with the 14WB calipers.

 

You use the tubing a spacer to take up the size difference. 12mm I.D. & 14mm O.D. also I would recommend using a larger washer as well to make sure there is plenty of clamping surface.

 

Here is my report: I completed my brake upgrade on my 06 Double Cab. I did not replace the lines yet. There is currently a 3 week waiting period for custom crown performance brake lines. I plan on going with the Banjo bolt fitting. Ordered the Banjo Bolts from Chase Bay, 3 weeks passed and still waiting on the CP lines. I went ahead with the install without the lines because my calipers completely siezed up and truck was inoperable.

I ordered OEM 14WB calipers by mistake. But recovered by using 3 1/2 inch washers from home depot to act as spacers. I'm using AKEMBO brake pads. I received my machined calipers from Geoff. $80.00 shipping 75 for machining. Had the brakes bled at a shop across the street they also adjusted the rears shoes.

The brakes perform great, truck stops on a dime! No longer worried about yellow lights. It's truly an Night and Day difference.

Pedal Feel - Okay, so there is some slight mushy pedal, but nothing I can't live with. The pedal throw may have gone up by 1 inch. No pulsating or noise. No need to pump the brakes. I plan to upgraded to extended lines when they arrive. Hopefully it helps, but not an issue if it doesn't. I wish I'd done it sooner and the truck should have came from factory with this size system.

 

@ToyoLife thanks for the report! Glad to hear you had success.

 

Will this work with a 06 DC with VSC? Got a new truck and the PO was chasing down weak brake issues, and I think its just a few stuck caliper pistons. Wouldn't hurt to upgrade the them while I'm replacing them. This has the giant frankenstein spaghetti monster master cylinder ABS combo unit.

 

Can only speak for myself but my 06 DC has VSC. I have no issues.

 

Which specific brake pads did you use? How do you like them after break in?

 

Cool. I am going to do it in stages, but I have a sequoia parts car. Plan on swaping in the rear disks and the sequioa vcs after I do the front brakes. As far as the wiring goes it all looks the same, I will have to replumb the rear end for the sequioa brakes, but the rest should go.

Want to get the front working correctly first. Best to start with working system.

Already got the fancy power heated seats in right in time for cold weather!

 

Akembo brake pads. After brake in I like them a lot. Hardly no dust, plenty of stopping ability.

 

Hey guys. Just chiming in. Its been a hot minute since i have been on this platform. I'm super stoked you guys have been utilizing this upgrade. I have been helping people do this conversion all over the country for a while now with a great amount of success. Definitely a highly sought after conversion. Its cool to see the conversions are still alive. Keep doing your thing and let me me know if you need help. I can direct on how to accomplish this task.

Geoff Beers - the Yota Guy

 

Hi everybody,
I spent a few days reading all the posts here. It’s very interesting and so much to know and to learn. I am so sorry to say but for me is still not clear, what’s is the best way to go for the brake upgrade ? I have a Toyota Tundra 2001 with s13WE calibers and just bought a brand new 16 inch wheels.
What would you recommend for the brake upgrade? If I understand right you can’t use the 14WB calibers for 16inch wheels. What is the best upgrade for 16inch wheels?
Thank you

 

I am also on 16's. I got 13WL's (powerstop calipers from rock auto, ebc orangestuff brake pads from summit? and rotors as part of a kit with ss lines and WE pads I didn't end up using from stoptech via buybrakes).

I'm rather satisfied with my braking performance but I drive like the old man that I am, don't have anything cool to tow (yet) and my truck is really light (just a shell and a rubber mat and my fat arse.)

I do have a redarc brake controller (still need to install it) and I plan to build a custom tow harness (because it's fun so why not) but I am likely a long ways away from towing anything b/c kids.

I would like to drive with 14wa's and feel the power someday. I think that might be enlightening. But I'm certainly satisfied with my braking performance.

 

If I knew what this was going to lead to I would have never done this. Jpink let me drive his DC and his truck stops better with 13WL's than mine with 14WA's

I'm not sure why anyone would do 14WB's over the WA's either.

 

OP, the 14WA upgrade requires 16 inch wheels, calipers, rotors and pads, and possibly a new brake master. 13WL is basically just changing the calipers and pads.

First thing I'd do is make sure your rear brakes are in good operating order. The rear brakes on these trucks make a huge difference in braking. Second, adjust the LSPV. Third, 13WL with quality pads and rotors.