What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Ok, taking stock of my position. Alternator doesn’t work, replacement fuse ordered. This would ironically be a great time to replace that cable but all my big gauge wire and crimpers are at Jason’s.
Power tailgate lock seems close.
Radio isn’t booting up and I think should work even with only battery power. Wondering if maybe I should troubleshoot that. Hoping I didn’t fry it.
Perhaps I will work on my aux fuse setup today since I need a circuit for both cameras, mirror, and seat heaters.

 

Transmissions started shifting funny and torque converter wouldn’t lock.

 

Ordered up a pair of component speakers for my front doors. Going to order another pair for the rear doors and maybe put the tweets up on the pillar. If weather permits I might get to install them during the 3 day weekend next month. If I can get them and my 5 channel installed it will give me the drive I need to build the sub box I've had on my head for years.

 

Sweet. I imagine I have a sound upgrade coming at some point, I't will be interesting to see what you do.

 

I've yet to find a pair of speakers that can compare to the Polk MMC650 MOMOs for great sound with phenomenal mid-level bass. I just wished they fit our front doors (not deep enough). Now you can't even buy them new anymore.

 

I had strongly considered a set of Polk, they had such mixed reviews though.

I'm going with Image Dynamics up front and probably in the rear doors as well. I think they should fit. I have heard them once and the tweet was a little overpowering but the guy running them had the tweeter on full blast. I will be running them either flat or -3db.

 

I havent heard anything great about the speakers Polk is producing nowadays. The magnets on those MMC650s were huge.

I still wish they had stores like Tweeter where you could listen to high end audio.

 

Same here. Most of the big stores around here only have low end stuff on display and most of the time those displays don't work. I hate going into car stereo shops. Most of them I've gone to have pretty snobby guys or serious sketchy salesman guys. The only one I used to like changed owners a few years back. It was run by an old Armenian guy who I loved chatting with and haggling with.

 

On the CV Joints, I'd just grab used ones off ebay. I got one for $69 fot the sequoia and it's been good for about 20,000 miles. I don't think you really need the high angle boots for a 2 inch lift. IF the boots do blow then you can replace them at that time. I would restrap the boot though.

How hard is it to remove the ECM? Could you borrow the one from the V6 or or visit one of the other members here to test it?

 

I didn't think about flea-bay. I'd like to reboot anyways even with used... peace of mind, and I'd really like to know how to do that.

ECGS bushing thing too.

I'm not sure if the ECM is at fault here. I've been updating crackies thread with my most current thinkings. There are quite a few different models on flea-bay. How to pull the ECM is also on the thread.

Need to pull everything apart to see which part number I have.

 

I'd be worried about rebooting your current CV axles just because who know what's gotten in there. Get used ones not torn and reboot.

I saw the posts on crackie, but that's way beyond my knowledge, I tried to read my rear O2 sensor to see if it was bad and couldn't even figure that out

 

Sorry to hear that man I would toss the lsvp and do the 50$ mod I posted before you can easily lock up the rear breaks that way. You clearly can't do that right now. Rear breaks should engage first that's where you get the break pedal travel from right now

 

I wouldn't worry about rebooting. If you're already pulling the axle you can clean out all the old grease and look for anything weird.

 

Holy throwback!
I got through that part number and thought to myself, "That's the MOMO speakers from 20+ years ago!" and then read the very next word and you confirmed what I already knew.
I had a set way back in the day. I'm not sure what's become of the actual speakers, but I think I may have the crossovers in the basement. (I have crossovers from something down there.)

The main stereo in the house runs Polk RT800 [passive] towers and they've been great since purchased in 1999.

 

Ordered an oem owners manual and Toyota folder for the dash. As clean as this one is, I was surprised to not find one in it.

 

I think my rear driver Bilstein 5100 blew. I'm getting swaying at high speeds and feels unstable, almost like a low tire pressure feeling. I don't see any broken links or suspension/steering pieces. I measured the rear and its half inch lower than before so something gives. Anyone ever had a blown rear shock? Or drove with one.

 

blown shock wont cause the truck to sit lower. broken spring will

 

Fixed alternator fuse. Radio works again with fuse intact. Backup camera works too. In reverse with parking brake on it seems to not turn on. Then without parking brake it does. Which I find a little confusing since I think I grounded the parking brake input.

power tailgate lock doesn’t work at all and kills the regular power lock. More troubleshooting there someday.

at least I can drive it now. Diode module back and charge voltage is normal.

 

My Son and I put an Eibach Pro Lift on his 06' DBL Cab. Had the TRD aftermarket rims that I bought used years ago and never put them on anything, so we decided to put them to use until he saves some more cash. Cooper ATPs 285/70/17s. The XSP 20" Enkei rims are for sale.

 

Found my culprit after further inspection.

 

Springs look good. Looks like my lateral bar threw a nut right off lol. I Still can't explain my height difference though.

 

yea... dont drive that till you get a bolt. the spring may be in a slight bind since the axles shifted back

 

Crazy..
Have you had it removed recently or was it factory tight?

 

I replaced them like 7-8 months ago. Bolts were tight all around. Strange that that side gave up.

 

So who has good ideas on troubleshooting this pop n lock not working problem? two wires and I managed to screw it up. i'll go re-read the manual.

 

I believe the trucks are negative side switched if you didn't do that. Also I think the wires have to be tapped at the driver's side.

 

Interesting. I wonder why. I did route to passenger. I could run a jumper across the dash though. Just rather unexpected...

 

passenger side will work. you just need to double press the unlock for the tailgate to unlock.

 

Good time to have a come a long and some webbing...pull the axle forward to get that bolt in - or a replacement bolt.

 

doors dont lock/unlock when T is in, no sound, no action.

Mine is rs3000 so one button does both. no double click, that would be a noop