Advice on tire size with 3" lift + SPC UCA and stock 20" wheels

Hello everyone, I need some advice here.

You can't really order AT/MT/Trail tires, mount and test fit them, and then return them for a smaller size if they don't fit.

I have Bilstein 6112's maxed out plus spacers for leveled 3" front lift.
SPC adjustable UCA's for proper alignment.

Bilstein 5160 remote reservoir shocks plus CB +3 rear shackles for 1.75" rear lift.

I have stock 20" wheels with 275x55x20 Yoko Geocraplander tires atm.

Truck rides great, tires wearing fine, reduced turning radius, other than that its fine but it does look a bit odd.

The current tires sit a bit below the top of the UCA, which sticks out a bit to the side.
If the tire was the same as now, but taller, it would definitely hit the UCA ball joint area as my fingers only fit between them currently at an angle, not straight up and down.

The chart on this site shows up to 285x65x20 tires with 3" lift, on stock wheels, but does not mention UCA's........

I am looking to run at least 275x60x20 (Which should be fine), but leaning towards 275x65x20, and wouldn't mind going all the way to 285x65x20.
All of these options would be for AT or MT tires, so they are kinda oversized.
I'm currently leaning towards the new Cooper Discoverer Rugged Trek's, but they are limited to 275x60x20 or 275x65x20 max size.
Will those be cookie cutters and look funny?

Does anyone have knowledge of what will fit on the stock wheel with these SPC UCA's?

I am afraid if I order anything larger than the 275x60x20 I will be screwed when they don't fit and have to pay for at least 1 tire that they test fit at around $300 per tire, that's a big hell no.

Another consideration is ordering and having on hand some spacers, but I am trying to avoid using spacers for all the normal reasons.

I would LOVE some new Fuel wheels with +20 offset, but I don't have $3800+ for 4 wheels and 4 tires lol.

Why do 20in +20 offset Toyota pattern wheels have to cost $380+ per wheel GRRR!

Thanks for any help, I REALLY want to get rid of these pos Yoko geocrap tires in the next few weeks.

 

folks fit 35s with 2-3 inch lift. But 35x1250 will not work for you with stock wheels, they will hit stock UCA and certainly your larger aftermarket units due to the +60 offset, as well as other places=rubbing.

34ish height and 11-11.5 wide tire work well on a tundra with a mild lift. And since your new UCA are likely larger than stock, you probably need wheel spacers or lower offset wheels to use 34+ inch tires.

 

Thank you, that makes sense.

Perhaps I should start with 275x60x20 now and save up another $1800 for +20 offset wheels later lol?

Think those will clear the SPC UCA's?

I am just fairly certain if I order tires and the first one doesn't fit, they are not going to let me return it once mounted as that makes it a "used" tire technically in my experience.
That would be $300+ dollars down the drain plus mount and balance for 1 tire to test fit.

I wish they didn't make this so dam difficult.

 

Depends on how you get your tires. If you use a retailer like discount tire, americas tire, they would probably mount one up to check fitment. They want to sell you tires and want them to work for you. Installers like that often fit them to ensure they work. If not, just order what will fit since they are taking your $ anyway! If you order online and have tires shipped to you (and then you need to find an installer) you would be out of luck with a return once mounted. So, talk to any tire shops you are considering and ask if they will test mount, you may be surprised that they are willing to assist to sell you some tires.

 

Thank you for the advice.

Interesting angle.

When I worked at 3rd party tire shops we could not "return" a tire once mounted.

That was like 8 years or so ago, but I didn't think that had changed.

Perhaps I will talk to some shops and see what's up.

Biggest issue there is shops often charge more for the tires then if I order them online, trade offs lol.


What do you think of the 275x65x20 ?
It's the same width as stock, but cooper says it's like 34.6" tall.

Forget the UCA width rub issue, would that rub other areas on stock 20" wheels with my 3" lift?

Will the truck be too tippy with that narrow tall tire?

Will it look like crap, cookie cutters etc?

Wish I had $4k to just get the Fuel wheels and tires I want that I know will fit from others doing it, but that's not how life works lol.

Dam Toyota and this shitty stock wheel offset making this SO costly!

 

best thing to do is look over some of the threads in the suspension and wheel/tire forums here, tons of info, pics, on setups and if there was rubbing, how rubbing solved, etc. And honestly, two people can run the same setup and one has rubbing, another does not. Often a good alignment tech can address rubbing with how they set up the alignment.

Also, do a search (upper right) for the tires sizes you are considering and you will get some hits. Here is one that talks about fitment, lift, rubbing for 285/65/20
https://www.tundras.com/threads/285-65-20-on-stock-rims-with-no-lift.26239/

I dont have experience with 20 inch wheels and dont read much about fitting bigger tires using 20+ inch wheels, since mine are 18s. But I can tell you, folks run 285/75/18s on stock PRos (2 inch lift in front) on stock wheels and stock UCA with minimal fuss. Maybe remove the air flaps, heat/bend wheel liner, no cutting or anything drastic. Not sure if that setup would hit aftermarket UCA like you have. But 285/75/18 are just under true 35s tall (34.8ish) and are 11.2, 11/3 inches wide for reference since you are looking at tires in that size range, just 20s vs 18s. They can fit, even on stock wheels, but I am unsure about your UCAs and how much larger they are, or if they may contact the tire using stock offset wheels due to their size or design.

 

Thanks for the advice.

I think I have about 1" vertical clearance for the SPC UCA right now with stock wheels.

I actually found a shop that will test fit a tire if its in their local warehouse.
Problem is that only gets me to 275x60x20 which is 33x10.8x20 and its an XL tire, not E rated.

I really need to save up another $1500+ and just buy the +20 offset wheels I need but my current tires are already getting low.....

 

Well you can always run wheel spacers for a bit for the extra clearance. You need hub centric spacers and they are available in 1 inch, 1.5 inch. Pushes the tires out just like running lower offset wheels. You can get a set for $100-200. spidertrax, bora are good units. Using them could get you by for a while until you can get your rims

 

Indeed, I have considered spacers, but hate having to deal with that.

I think for now I am just going to get 275x60x20 and save up for wheels I like.
That gives me a half inch of lift and bigger looking AT 33's, it will do for now.

Btw, choosing wheels is tough, I can't decide what looks best, I keep coming back to red ones by fuel that are the top price point.
I would consider blue but that's even harder to find.

I REALLY don't want black wheels, hence the white truck. (My 3rd gen 4Runner is black, learned my lesson)

 

I have 275 65 R20’s with a 2.5” front spacer, stock UCA’s, only things I had to do were remove the front air deflectors or mud flaps (whatever they’re called) and trim back the stock “skid plate” a little. I don’t think they look too narrow…

 

Very cool, thanks for sharing!

When you say spacer, you mean a 2.5 in lift spacer in the front, not wheel spacer right?

But you have different wheels with different offset, I have stock wheels and larger SPC UCA's.
What offset are your wheels?

Your truck looks awesome btw

So now I think I may go with Falken Wildpeak at3 in 275x60x20 because they are well rated and come in D load, which is WAY better than Cooper Rugged treks STD 4 ply in this size.
Even though these look just like Nitto Terra grapplers which I had horrible experiences with on my 4runner.
I barely got 18k out of those tires.

Cooper really blew it with that STD 4 ply in this size. Why would you put AT tires with car ply thickness on your truck, that's just stupid unless they are normal road tires.
Then it jumps to E load in 275x65x20 which I don't think I can fit due to stock wheels and SPC UCA's.

 

My rims are factory Limited rims, Plastidipped, but sorry I’m not sure of the factory rim offset. By 2.5” spacer I mean at the top of the coilover, not wheel spacers. Eventually I plan on upgrading to a true coilover lift, possibly the same set-up as yours, though considering the Ironman 4x4 Stage 2 set-up.

And thank you so much for the compliment!

 

Thank you for explaining.

So you have a 2.5 front spacer lift, now I understand thanks!
I did not catch the factory wheels being plasti dipped, very nice.

My wheels are whatever comes on the 1794 trim 20in, and all of our wheels are +60 offset, except the TRD PRO ones I think, and some TSS ones.
I believe someone said those are both +50?

My SPC UCA looks too big and too close to the wheel.
I have 275/55/20 yoko craplander AT's.
This equals 32/10.8inR20 tire.
I measured and it seems like I have about an inch more room vertical, depending on how close to the UCA is safe.
Here are some quick night pics to get an idea of my concerns, none from when I used the ruler though, that was daytime last week.
It's hard to line the phone up dead straight down the line of site.

To me it looks like if my tire gets taller, it will run into the UCA.
If I go up to the 275/60R20 it is a 1in bigger tire.
I should be ok as that will add 1/2 inch top and bottom.

However, the 275/65R20 tires I've looked at say they are about 34.1in tall.
That is 2in higher than what I have now.
That works out to be what like 1in more top and bottom?
That worries me.

Some model tires I looked at in that size claimed 34.6in tall

It actually might clear the UCA, but I feel like I would have VERY little clearance left for tire bulging or whatever, and I don't want it to be inherently unsafe .....


So far, I have enjoyed my Bilstein and CB lift.
More than anything, it was the 10hrs in the borrowed shop working alone with my father to install it that means so much.
We had never had a moment like that working on a vehicle together, and almost certainly never will again.
I will cherish that day for as long as I live.

The lift definitely improved the ride quality and handling over stock.
I did max it out and added the UCA's for alignments, so I lost some (noticeable to me) turning radius, and I get some weird binding at full lock sometimes, but nothing unsafe.

If I could do it over again, I would still do it, but I always dream of going higher.
But I also have nightmares of towing a fuel tanker trailer behind me to keep it running, while being chased by evil tesla bots.

I have not looked at lifts since I did mine over a year ago so I cannot give you any useful info on the Ironman 4x4 Stage 2 set-up unfortunately.
Just be prepared for the fuel mileage gut punch whatever lift you choose, on top of whatever you lost from your tires if any?

 

Sweet luck!

I found a shop I had overlooked right near my house.

Manager is going to order me Falken Wildpeak AT3W 275/60R20 D load AND 275/65/20 E load for Wednesday install, at msrp prices with a free alignment!

We will test fit the 275/65R20 and if it doesn't safely clear my UCA etc, he will install the 60R20's and he will keep and sell the 65R20's to someone else, and I won't have any extra charges!
I'm super excited to finally be getting rid of these 275/55R20 Yoko Geolander pos tires

 

Wow... I didn't realize the SPC UCAs stuck out that far. Plenty of people have run 285/75r18s (35x11) on stock rims and UCAs with no problem.

 

Yea me either.

I didn't take this into account when I did my lift with these.
It makes life difficult now, but having the proper alignment is worth it.

Stock tires are 10.8in wide, 11in might still fit, but I am more worried about total diameter, right now anyway.
Wider tires also help kill your fuel mileage, and mines bad enough right now.
I average 11.5 around town, maybe 14 hwy if I stay below 70mph. (yea right)

I may save up for wheels, I can't decide if I want to spend that much money and then have all the worry and cleaning that comes with fancy wheels.
Or maybe give in and get some cheap black wheels with the offset I need (which is the only reason I need new wheels in the first place), so I can eventually run 35/12.50R20's when I am ready to really go down to single digit fuel mileage without even towing

Toyota and their stupid factory offset.

These are the wheels I am leaning towards.
Fuel Twitch 20x9 1 Blue Milled | D77020907050 | Custom Offsets (customwheeloffset.com)
Yes, they are only available in aggressive offset, and very aggressive offset, and will give me significant poke, but dam I want them

Cost about $1800 all in online with lug nuts, TPMS, and ceramic coating, free shipping.
I would use affirm financing and pay it off early before interest.

The shop doing my tires later this week offered them at $1300 installed, plus lug nuts, with free TPMS and free Alignment.
No ceramic coating.
Thats $150ish savings on the TPMS and $100+ savings on the alignment.
Could be as much as $400 in savings over online.
But they don't offer the financing, and I don't have cash in my budget atm for tires + wheels unless financed.

Oh well, maybe next year sometime

 

I usually advise people to lift the front 1.5-2", leave the rear alone, and keep the stock UCAs. You can fit 37s with a 2" lift.

 

Indeed, that seems to be the case from what people here have done over the years.

I just like the lifted look also

 

I agree great looking truck.

Curious about the wheels being plastidipped. They look great. How are they holding up? Did you do them while on or off the truck?

I love plastidip and have done mirror caps, badges, some interior sticky leather cover-up and plan to try it on the brushed silver parts of the running board and my grille. Ones I have done look great after about 4 months.

 

I had my Plastidip on my wheels for about 3 years before it started peeling. I treated them every time I washed the truck with Griot's Black Shine Tire Gel and it worked awesome to refresh the finish.