What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Didn’t think to record or take photos. But removed my blower motor, disassembled it, oiled the bushings, and reassembled. Blower motor no longer squeaks

 

Nice. Good old fashioned maintenance! Was it difficult to get the blower motor out?

 

Getting the squirrel cage off sucked. But that was the hardest part. The motor uses copper bushings, so once the squirrel is off and the bottom base is off some engine oil dripped in the the shaft is enough to saturate the Porous bushing. Time will tell if it lasts. Brushes looked god, commutator was a bit worn though.

 

@jpink and I just finished rebuilding my rear brakes. It took us about 4 hours and that included bleeding the brakes and a test drive. We took the slack out of the parking brake cable and adjusted the bell cranks according to the FSM.

The service manual states that we are to press the parking brake until we hear the self adjusters stop clicking. We did this and it took a while. This had me feeling confident. At that point though, we can still slide the drums off. I remember @empty_lord stating that when the rears are properly adjusted the drums won't just slide off unless you back them off.

After test driving there is no improvement on mushy pedal. I'm not sure if I should manually tighten the self adjusters more or not. Really not sure what to do next.

 

Are they new drums? They’ll slide off if so. Old ones the rust lip usually will prevent them from sliding off when properly adjusted

 

Did you adjust each side until it drags? I’d say self adjust until they get closer to dragging.

 

No, same drums.

We did this and it took some effort to spin the wheel and we felt like we can hear them lightly dragging.

It's just odd. The self adjusters are supposed to take care of this if everything is working properly. I'll give them a few more clicks on each side and see what happens.

 

the self adjusters work like... 70% of the time... if you live somewhere like cali



popping the e brake while backing up usually will get them to ratchet

 

Right. I remember you telling someone else the self adjusters are notoriously unreliable. I just assumed they would be on point after replacing them today. We could hear them click a long time while John pressed the parking brake. My parking brake feels awesome.

 

one of the local toy techs said basically the same thing about the self adjusters actually working.

he basically said get them close to dragging, and then every oil change give them a few clicks.
I’m 90% sure I warped my front rotors after just doing a entire brake job, and not getting the rears close enough; as I was coming down a big mountain with tons of switchbacks. I’ve adjusted the rears since, but I bet they could even use a few more clicks.

 

I guess at this point I should shoot towards being too tight than too loose? I just didn't want to have them so tight I warp the drums from heat. I just gave each side a few more clicks and fucked with the LSPV for kicks even though that hasn't done anything for me in the past.

 

very slight drag is what you want. you should hear the shoes making contact lightly. too tight can cause the pedal to feel low too.

 

Got the reverse relay open. Ready for surgery.

 

No one carries the barrel / crimp / terminal tool around here. So ordered it on Amazon and only mounted the “rear end jewel.” Can’t run the harness yet.

 

Worked an easy 10 hour shift today doing mostly grinding and low guy on the totem pole jobs. The guy that has been training me agreed to take the maint managers position at the start of the year. He told me today that he is really impressed with my positive can-do attitude, and willingness to help out others.

Side note: came home and chased a down a short to ground on the V6 for pops on the running light circuit. (Interior cab fuse box, "Tail" Fuse.)

Went through three fuses before I finally found the right thing causing the short. Turns out it was my Curt trailer harness that I installed 10-18-2019. I originally suspected that it was @daveeasa's harness he made for me for my ditch light turn signals. The only reason I suspected that was that it was the most recent work that was tied into that circuit.

Three fuses.


My box that still had my dummy plugs in it from when I installed the trailer harness. BLUE PAINT PEN FOR THE WIN!


Old corroded harness. Thing it'd be fine if I just cleaned it, but don't have the time anymore.



Also, think I am starting to ZERO in on the P0125 code for crackie, but any thoughts or ideas are welcome.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-51#post-2555907

 

OK, I have no alternator. Reverted to the prior setup with diode and still 12v. Turns on and lights work but no joy for zee alternator. Also need to figure out how to get my radio back too but that's a separate problem. I assume the ECU may be OK if it turns on and runs?

Looks like there is a 120amp fuse for the alternator? Not sure how to extract it. Getting cold here.



snapped off the top. Looks blown to me.

 

Got the wife something similar to this a couple of years ago. I love it!

 

Never swapped one of those fuses, but blown it is. I still think the alt works. Fuse likely did it's job

 

Yeah, hoping so. Even if I have to buy another one, I can live with that. Just not sure I can get the belt off, but I think my group 31 would make it to Jason's.
Problem now is that I have a sliders appointment tomorrow am so I'm going to have to hustle to get that fuse and return in time to confirm I have juice for the trip.

Anyone know if Napa has any hope of carrying this or am I heading to the dealer? Ironically, the dealer opens before Napa so I may just go there first thing.

 

Looks like slider weld on is off due to weather (rain) which is fortunate and also a bummer.
Gives me some breathing room to fix my alternator fuse and I guess experiment with the voltageboostmods harness once I confirm I'm back to "known good" with the diode setup.

In the meantime, I think my power tailgate lock is basically done if I can identify the wires for lock and unlock pulses in the passenger kick panel. They would have to feed into that door, same as the Tacoma, so I figure there aren't too many colors to choose from. I can just probe them but if anyone has them lying around...

Then I only have to deal with add-a-fuse (for now) for rear camera power and plug in the vga cable and backup camera is in action. Seems very doable for tomorrow.

Quick google shows me this for lock/unlock:

 

I blew my Taco one years ago and swapped it with a resettable breaker instead. OEM fuse was like 80 bucks IIRC and breaker was a few bucks at Califronia Electric Supply in El Cajon

 

My blower motor would squeak and squawk when it got colt outside. After a winter and a half, I just replaced the whole assy in the parking lot at work. Never occurred to me to try to fix it.
Curious how your oiling fares against the ravages of NWI winter.

 

Merry Christmas to me…

 

sucks
Hope it's an easy fix.

 

Looks red. ATF? Steering line or transmission?

 

Cooler like blew off on the way back from Christmas dinner. Had to leave it on the side of the road and come back yesterday with new hose, clamps, and 2 gallons of ATF.

 

Sucks, but sounds like an easy enough fix.
I've had great luck with oetiker clamps over worm clamps. Hold tight and less likely to cut the hose.

 

i had actually put new clamps on and I think I overtightened them, and that’s why it blew off. Stupid. At least I didn’t fry the trans…

 

How did you catch that? Smell?