Crackhead resurrection

I seriously doubt the guy I bought this from had enough money to throw any kid of parts at this truck.

So I've done a few quick searches on my very few schmoke breaks. Here's the list based on what I've found that could be causing this according to big bro goggles.

Engine coolant sensor. Replaced, and checked. Not the cause.

Wiring for the engine coolant sensor. Not checked. Couldn't find in the FSM what it was looking for on the two connectors. Any help digging that up is appreciated.

Low coolant level. Definitely not the issue.

Coolant leaks. I do have at least one leak, and have a plan to mend. I still need time to figure out the OEM part numbers for those spring clamps. I haven't been able to find them yet.

Thermostat stuck open. I installed a new Thermostat, but did not verify good working order. Assumed good because Aisin. Will verify the next time I do a coolant flush.

Damaged ECM. For fucks sake I hope it ain't...

Oxygen sensors. As you all know, I have replaced all four with Denso replacements. Post about that is here. I did not verify my oxygen sensors as good. The last ones I checked for the corolla, and the other Tundra were all good, and in spec.

Now, I haven't checked the wiring for the Oxygen sensors, nor have I checked all of the fuses. Not even sure which fuse the Oxygen sensors would use. Again, haven't had time to check the FSM for that wiring harness test.

Taken directly from the interwebs. Source.
Important Note: Some late 90s Toyotas will set a P0125 even though the engine is running at normal temperature because of an O2 sensor heater issue without even setting a code for the heater. This is due to the fact that the O2 sensor heater accelerates closed loop operation.

 

This should answer your clamp Q: https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...07_6711258/ENGINE-OIL-COOLER/841420-1503.html

96134-41900 comes back with supercession part number 9008046349

It would appear it's used on some air/vac lines too.

 

Maybe I missed it somewhere and I know it's a stupid question but have you unhooked the battery for a little while and let it set then try and drive it again?

 

Yes.

 

New gas cap today. Subtle differences between 21 year old, and new OEM. New on left. Old on right in all pictures.



Old cap says toyota, new cap says Toyoda Gosei. (TG) I can't escape that place, GAH! LOL


Old cap says whatever that S thing is, and new cap says Teq.

 

Gots the little leash? My new one had the don't go walkabout leash. (or was that the Taco?)

 

Little bro and I headed south this morning to pick up a special item for crackie....

Well today was the day! The picture below is in @Rocinetti's driveway. I bought this shell from him. Super happy with the purchase.


Three hours down, and about 15 minutes to load up, clamped down, then a few more hours to meander on back home... here's some pictures from our walkabout...


Little bro decided it was nap time on our trip home... I couldn't, just not take a picture.


Anyways, back to truck stuff..





The brake light assembly is bad, and I have another one on order. The reviews are mostly OK. I'll have to seal this up with some flex shot or something before I can mount it.

Clear Lens LED 3rd Third Brake Light Lamp Replacement for Truck Cap Topper Leer ARE CENTURY AT-LED-36R-01R…

Linky

Gratuitous roof picture.



This Cappppp not only came with brand new gas lift struts, the original leer clamps, but with pigtail for hooking up the interior light, and the brake light. The interior light does work, but the brake light does not work. Hence the linked part above...



Needs an LED which I just happen to have a spare VLEDS wedge bulb laying around...


This is also my 8,000th post here on the forum, and I'm so happy to be a part of this community. I originally wanted it to be a merry Christmas message on the Best Gen lunchtable page, but I'm fuckin impatient. Lol

The daily first gen thread saw it first!

 

Cheers and merry Christmas!

 

Glad you both made it home safely....hope the “kitchen sink” made it home as well....happy holidays my friends

 

@Tundra2
Are you sure your ready to handle the responsibilities that come with owning a cap?

you’ll grow to love the thing. Unless you need to load tall stuff.. but that’s when I break out a trailer anyway

 

The kitchen sink was delicious as always. Highly recommend Torinos. Merry Christmas!

I am 100% ready, but now I need a trailer....

 

Went out to change one tail light on the drivers side. Already had this one from the V6.

Old tail light.


I was surprised to see the wiring intact, and not fuckered. Also surprised that the tail light grommets appeared to be in good shape. Look at that rust in there.



Slathered some copper anti-sneeze on the rust, and the metal nut clips on the tail light. Really don't care what this looks like inside there. That box in the tail light cavity is for the towing harness, yes?



Newness! Hells yeah!



Also decided to do the passengers side while out here. Got the fancy silver since I was going to clean up a little bit of rust on the topper.


I figured a light covering on the brackets would be fine since it was just surface rust.





Also noticed the window size sticker had a location on it.

 

You kept the amber turns? I went with 05-06. I think they both look nice in different ways.

 

I am keeping these for now, but not against the 05-06 but would like to see a set on a truck in person myself versus pictures. I already had a replacement lens for the drivers side from the other truck so I just stuck it on.

Zero cost on this repair.

 

Inching closer on the 4WD. Pulled rear actuator off the truck, and then reset the xfr case shaft to 2wd. Spun the front drive shaft by hand with the front end lifted off the ground.

Put actuator back on, and pressed the button with the engine off, but truck on. Heard everything move, and then blinky light.... crawled under, and could not spin drive shaft by hand.

Lowered truck, and pressed button to go back to 2wd. Crawled under. Spun shaft by hand. Turned truck over, and let warm up.

Put it in drive, and went down the driveway about 10 mph pressed button. Shifted and...... blinky light. Crawled under. Could not spin shaft by hand.

What gives? Front ADD thing now?

 

Is it locking to the xfer or the diff?

 

How do I tell the difference? One of them is locking for sure, but I am not sure how to differentiate between the two...

 

So after actuating the 4WD a few times while in motion it eventually popped into 4WD. @Sirfive was correct. The steering definitely gets firmer on 4WD.

I was able to go in and out of 4HI, and in and out of 4LO. That truck feels like it could pull a fucking stump out of the ground in 4LO.

Video coming soon!

 

Man I can't think of a better Christmas present! You think it's good to go or still needs more tweaks?

 

Me either!


My gut says it's good to go, but my brain says to replace the breather tube on the front add thingy.

Now I need to look at replacing both CVJ axles, and the ECGS thing...

Possibly reboot the old ones. I think they are toyota axles. Do I need the high angle boots with 2 inches of lift?

 

https://youtu.be/_ex6TDen7eg

This video might be too loud on full blast. I didn't edit the audio volume like I usually do.

 

Waiting for stump pulling vids.

https://youtu.be/sEr1F41ScQE

 

I can go to bremen and really help out now!

 

If they have the pink sticker they are OEM. There are other ways to tell but I can't remember.

As for your last sentence. I would say probably not but it wouldn't hurt if you're rebooting them anyways.

 

Are the high angle boots the same as the porsche 930 boots?

 

So what was it that made it work? Rotating the 4WD shaft?

 

I think I had the position of the shaft coming out of the xfr case in the wrong spot. When I was unbolting the actuator, the shaft was pushing the actuator away from xfr case.

Indicating that I had the gear on the servo motor on the actuator in the wrong spot. So once I pulled the gear out, and put the actuator back on, plopped the gear in, and bolted it up it was in the correct position.

Now, something I noticed on the old actuator, but didn't say anything because "bad actuator" was a small amount of what I think is Xfr case oil was where the gear is on the actuator. When I pulled the actuator off this time there was the same amount of oil inside the actuator where the gear is.

I assume that's normal, and that's why there is a seal on the access plate for the gear. Maybe @empty_lord could confirm when he gets a minute. I will get pictures to help clarify soon

 

Oil from the Xfr case was in here where the servo actuates the shaft for the xfr case.


Wasn't a lot, but it was enough to drip put once I spun the actuator around to take the gear out.

All thoughts welcome.

 

Yes gear oil gets there

 

So normal. Good. Thanks for the confirmation. It smelled Like regular unused motor oil, looked, and tasted like it too.

How do we change fluid in the xfr case? What weight is needed?

Merry Christmas Dan!