37's on a 2nd Gen?

What wheels and front bumper is that?

 

The wheels are bmf drt's in a 17! And the front bumper is from reszfab

 

I want to do it so bad. I just don't know if i can fit with the bumper on. I have a ton of wheel well clearance now. The current offset is zero. 325s on 20.

 

people have done it with the stock bumper. A little bit of trimming but its works well.

 

I might have to get BMC done. I've got a ton of room but might have to cut.

 

2012 Tundra
18x9 +18 Method Wheels wrapped in Toyo M/T 37x13.5
Cab Mount Chopped
Wheel Wells Recessed
Front: OME 2.5” plus .5” CB shims, SPC Upper
Rear: OME shocks w/ 3” CB shackles, Dakar Leaf

The only issue I have is your diff you can only drop so far down that you’ll have issues with your CV boots popping off. It’s inevitable.
I’ve had mines pop off twice already and I’ve decided to replace the upper boot with CVJ red boots but haven’t gotten to doing that still.

I carry an AT Overland Habitat and yes, I daily this bugger with that thing on and have gotten to places off road where midsize go no issues. No rub.

 

No UCAs? No bumper spacers?

 

I have SPC UCA’s. No wheel spacers. About 1” space between UCA and tire. Gotta fut around toe or just take it to the hop and get them aligned properly. Best bet would be to get a 37x12.5 tires on a 18x8.5 0 offset

 

Yes on 18x8.5 and 37x12.5, but you'll have more issues with zero offset. You want closer to stock. Something in the +35 to +40 if you can find it. The old Rock Warriors are 17x8 and +50 I think, and those will work too if the UCA clearance is good, swaybar removed, and skid trimmed.

I think it's best to DIY alignment. If you did the lift install, the alignment will be comparatively easy.

 

Yes, 0 offsets only if you have modified a lot to fit something that large. I did the alignment enough to get it to drive straight to the alignment shop but after they fiddled with it, I felt like I did a better job doing the alignment myself. I speak for everyone that you need alignment done every so often in my opinion every time you go off road.

Also forgot to mention I removed my sway bar and skid plate. Have bumps stops and diff drop. Also have CB tie rod ends for a bit more adjustment and it’ll save our weak ass steering rack.

 

Yikes... over $400 for tie rod ends?

So much goodness in keeping your lift in the 1.5-2" range. That's enough for 37s, and going higher gains you nothing in performance and creates issues.

Quick way to check your alignment is to park on a flat spot (might need to level with spacers) and get a straight pipe/tube/angle that's about the diameter of the tire. You want the fronts to align with the rear both vertical and horizontally, and you can see this visually by resting the tube on the sidewall and sighting. Just a hair top-out and front-in is ok. That takes care of camber and toe.

 

Eey, thanks for the alignment tips! Always like learning new things. I’ll try it for sure. I used the 550 paracord method and aligned my toe. I’m maxed out on camber and left 1” so my UCA and tire don’t touch. I’m thinking about hopping to a thinner tire one day to avoid this.

 

Camber isn't negotiable unless you are ok with wearing out your tires and messing up handling.

I think 1" is way more than needed, unless something is loose, and then that should be addressed. The tire will move laterally against the rim in hard cornering... but I think this is only at the contact patch. Laterally movement at the top will be nil. If your tightest point was only 1/4", that would probably be enough.

I'm still using stock UCAs with a 2" lift. I first used the cams to pull the wheels forward as far as I could (front in), and tweaked the rears to set the correct camber. This maximizes caster, which is a good thing to do with stock UCAs. Then I made forward clearance with plastic and bumper mods to accommodate. Caster is hard to measure and I didn't even try, but "more" is usually fine. It increases the self-centering to have more. You'll get more rear clearance also.

Since you have adjustable UCAs, you have another degree of freedom to consider. My advice would be to check your LCA cam positions as well as the UCA balljoint positions, and where things need to be moved to get correct camber as well as considering caster+fore aft wheel position. It sounded like you currently have the balljoints outward as far as they'll go...? How are the LCA cams adjusted?

The balljoints are probably easier to adjust than the LCA cams, so it will be better to do your final camber fine tuning with those, plus the tie rods for toe. Iteration between these two will be needed. Be patient.

When DIY aligning it's most important to get the front and rear on the same plane first. A little sideways or fore-aft slope is ok, but not too much.