Switching to 5w30?

In other words, your $5 pair of underwear should be changed with the same frequency as a $50 pair of underwear. You can convince yourself that the second will last you the entire week, but that’s just gross.

 

Highly dependent on the additive package of the oil, these aren't the oils of yesteryear. Some people switch from Dino to a high grade syn, run 20k+ OCI, and still have lots of cleaning happening inside the engine because of the added Ester, AN, etc. Plus all good oil brands have detergent packages in them to help clean the engine constantly. If sludge started to form because of soot build up, then your oil viscosity would sky rocket and quickly be out of grade and a UOA would show that. But this doesn't happen, because the oil can hold the soot longer than think, without any harm. There are many many many engine teardowns to check cleanliness after running good oil for extended OCI, and there is zero sludge to be found, just pristine engine components, good cross hatching, and virtually zero wear. I'm switching oil brands soon and I'll be running 20k OCI and posting my UOAs to back up my claims

 

This is the worst comparison I've ever read in my life.....let's just compare underwear to science and chemistry

 

@sd172

Here is a good read, it should explain everything.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/how-does-detergents-and-dispersants-work-in-oil.18621/

 

Thank you for the link. I think you do what makes you comfortable. I would be most concerned about coking your oil control ring passages more than anything else. That obviously doesn’t happen overnight and your UOAs will still look peachy.
I guess time will tell.

 

i just sent in my oil sample to blackstone - Kirkland 0w-20 4200 miles on oil.

18 dyno runs on that oil!

I'll show you some soot.

will report back directly.

 

Thank you very kindly @nobodyintexas. I think we’ve reached a conclusion that self cleaning underwear is the new jam.

 

true - that analogy was the bomb.

 

Im glad you enjoyed the link, that website has tons of valuable data and incredible people, it's worth spending some time there if you're into that kinda thing.

And I believe we all get data by conducting our own tests, and I enjoy pushing things to the limit to test them. Alot of good syn oil has Ester (amsoil and mobil off the top of my head) in the base oil package, which cleans like CRAZY! And Will prevent, and even clean, coke from the piston rings. I like to look at the oils spec sheet, and find a VOA if possible for the additive package, that way I can assess if it's it's right oil for me, based on shear point, pour point, detergents, moly, TBN, etc. It all plays a role.

 

I'll show you mine if you show me yours

 

Totally agree with you on esters. I posted before what goes into my Dino oil and one part of my home brew is polyol esters (POE):
https://www.tundras.com/threads/any...er-kit-from-harrop.85513/page-33#post-2521304

There are excellent products out there like Amsoil and Redline that also cost a fair amount. I went a slightly different route with my oil

 

hydrodynamic wedge

 

Interesting. Seems like all the ingredients are there, be careful with the Ester. Too much can eat the seals. How are you measuring your oil mix? Might be worth it send a mixed sample to get an analysis on it.

And why not just buy a good synthetic instead? It come pre mixed

 

I couldn’t find any retail oil that has friction modifiers here in the US (EPA?). There’s one Euro company that makes oils with graphite and hexagonal boron nitride, Xenum:
https://xenum.com/en/home/products/
It doesn’t make sense to me to try to bring that oil here, so I had to improvise.

 

why is Toyota 0-20 ~$10/qt?
Kirkland is $2.5/qt

that stuff must have unobtanium in it. about as rich as Amsoil - if that was possible.

 

With Dino, my dipstick always had a brown tint to it.

with Syth, my dipstick comes out clean.

<stop it, just stop it. we are talking oil here>


M1 was my go to oil for years - until COSTCO hit me with Warren Dist oil. Bobistheoilguy & project farm approve. hence, my present position.

If my analysis of the kirkland oil come back ganked up, I'll move back to M1.

whatever happened to penzoil ultra platinum? that stuff was primo.

 

Class, who agrees that you can use something else in addition to 0w20 raise your hands. Dino or synthetic is totally up to you.

 

I'll send you a pm and see if I can help you out

 

I had one VOA done after mixing 8 quarts of Castrol GTX 10w30, 4 oz of graphite additive, 4 oz of ZDDP additive and 8 oz of PTFE. Insolubles at 0.2%? Lol
Will do one with ZDDP 4 oz / PTFE 8 oz / graphite 4 oz / POE 6 oz next.

 

pardon my memory....but wasn't PTFE shut down by the FTC? for false advertising?

i used some of that in my '86 monte carlo. to no avail. I've been changing my oil since '85.

 

I believe it was. Basically PTFE won’t make your engine with 200k miles run as new, restore compression and cure headache. That is false advertising on behalf of greedy companies.

 

This thread was a good read. I swear us forum people do considerably more thinking than average people. Regular folks never question oil they just change it, add what's recommended and move on.

I've questioned the oil in my 4 wheeler, super duty, motorcycle, tundra, lawn mower. The only one I haven't put much thought into is my Kubota.

For awhile I used Rotella t6 in my 4 wheeler, super duty, and motorcycle because it has the correct rating for all of those vehicles despite being a diesel oil.

I do think the tundra is a little loud and pondered if 0-20 was the culprit. It's the only vehicle I've ever had that used that weight/viscosity.

Over thinking is a pain lol but I like to think we can make slightly more informed decisions based on knowing more about a given topic.

I know one thing, I've NEVER left break in oil in a vehicle for 10k miles. And it seems Ludacris. I dropped the oil from my 2021 trd pro at 1k miles (which is 500 more miles than usual break in change) and it had lots of metal shavings (which I've come to know is normal from all the new engines I've broken in). I'll do another oil change maybe today to get more of metal out. 10k on break in oil is insane to me.

I feel better doing about 3 oil changes maybe 4 before 10k.

 

we are simpatico

I changed my oil at:

750 miles

1500 miles

5000 miles

then every 5k.

and I use full syth - i like all my molecules to be the same size.

 

Cut from the same cloth.

 

With minimal online shopping you can find TGMO 0W20 for a ~$5/qt including shipping. Not as cheap as other options, but very reasonable for what it is.

I think I paid $4.87/qt last time I ordered some. That was a couple months ago though, so prices might have gone up a bit.

 

It's been established that Toyota specs a wide range of viscosities between 0w20 and 20w50. Ambient temp ranges and load will determine what oil is best suited.

0w20 is all about thinnest oil and lowest resistance, which (in theory) gives better fuel economy. May be marginal per tank, but with Cafe Standards and every mpg counted and measured by Cafe standards in the US it adds up.

Toyota recommends 'severe duty' or towing viscosity. Why? Extra protection. So 0w20 is perfectly fine for normal operation, 5w30 for towing to increase protection, etc.

It's the same with my Coyote motored Bullitt. 5w20 for normal, 5w30 for track use and if equipped with Ford Performance Super Charger 5w50! I run 5w30 since first oil change at 2k miles. I have better things to do with 9k of my $$$ and 480hp is more than adequate, so it will stay that way. Point is, it is the SAME engine, bearings, clearances but different demands that determine viscosity ratings. All talk of this as a reason to stay with the Cafe driven Corporate ehem, I mean Toyota MASTER technicians spec are related to 'gnats @$$ tolerances' is baloney, but hey, if that makes you comfortable, more power to ya.

I ran 0w20 on the free oil changes, ran 5w30 until 55K when I tried 0w40. Motor is quieter with the 5w30 across the rev range. 0w40 was an experiment, hoping for same cold flow and pressure and extra high temp or load protection, but will go back to 5w30 for the rest of the trucks or my life. I plan to keep the truck till I cant climb in the truck or too old to drive. I figure I have another 20 years ;-) I retire in 2 years, and will be towing our TT across the country with the lovely Mrs Bulldog running 5w30.....

 

I'm definitely no oil expert but I can read

Depending where you live you can throw that T6 in your Tundra too! I ran it all last summer, ran great.

 

Where does Toyota recommend a different severe duty or towing viscosity outside of Tundras being used in Mexico?

There is a severe duty OCI…every 5k I believe.

And what exactly makes a 5w30 provide a 5.7 Tundra with better protection than a 0w20 when used within its towing and performance specs? Meaning not when towing 20k or running the Baja 500…

 

Good Lord man, read up in the thread, it's only been posted 5X

 

Good lord me all you want…I have looked at all those charts and the manual. I am not arguing that a higher viscosity is going to hurt anything. All I am saying Toyota isn’t making a recommendation when the use the word “MAY”. I may hit the lottery tomorrow or I may get hit by a bus. “may be better suited” is the exact wording which is utterly inconclusive as to whether it’s better or not…