What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Mine wasn’t dented until I backed into a pole.

 

Got the SCS rims sold and my 265/70R17 Wildpeaks ATs sold. Total cost to swap out for the 285 M/T01s was $27, and I got a full size unused spare out of the deal. Just need to find a 5th rim now. Pretty happy with the whole deal. The M/Ts have more road noise for sure, but I really like them. I had hoped to get started on the DC sub panel wiring, but I don’t think it’s going to happen.

 

@bmf4069 might this help?
Lostakey.net - largest inventory of replacement keys for truck toppers, tool boxes, RV’s and office keys

 

Different keys. The latter is similar to cubiclekeys.com (which I've used before) they provide a wide variety of "known cut" smaller keys, usually for barrel locks on things like file cabinets, equipment cabinets, in-bed toolboxes, campers, storage units, etc. Typically those barrel locks will have a alphanumeric code stamped in them to identify the key cut pattern.

Don't think it'll work with the full-size automotive keys used on doors, fuel doors, ignition. But I may be wrong - so I'd encourage @bmf4069 to give it a shot.

 

Hey @bmf4069 why are you 4096 and not 42069?

 

Got my CHMSL replaced w new OEM unit, VLED bulbs and full wires to the bottom of the B pillar for Dome, cargo, brake and ground disconnect. It was way easier being able to stand / kneel in the bed.

 

Mine was hit 3 times within the first 5 years of ownership. I think there's really something about new vehicles that attract idiots hitting you. I haven't been hit in the last 15 years since that time. Most likely because they see the dented up bumper and figure I'm one who just wants to collect the $$$ instead of getting it fixed. They're not wrong.

 

I had this happen to me too. Had my truck for about a year. Someone tagged my paint-matched OEM bumper around year 12 of life. It went its whole life w/o a dent or significant scratch, some asshole in a thrift store parking lot tapped me while dropping off donations one day.

And that, my friends, is why I have a chrome bumper today. Meh.

 

I'm immature, but not THAT immature.

I've had that screen name since around 2005. I just stuck with it all these years.

 

I finished installing the shorty headers. What a pain in the ass! The last bolt on the passenger side wouldn't come out and I had to cut into the header. I also had to cut off all of the collector bolts and y-pipe bolts as they were rusted into blobs. The header cut like butter with the Diablo blade. If I were to do it again, I might just cut both headers off - then you have easy, straight-on access to all bolts. Putting in the new headers was easy because there is plenty of room around the pipes.

 

My mounts should be here when the long tubes from ya should show up. Can’t wait for it

 

Wait, what mounts? Yeah, I can't wait to hear about your install! You got a dyno at your shop

 

i wish we did. lol dealers dont have those unfortunately.


i ordered poly motor mounts a couple months ago anticipating this. my mounts have 200k on them and a rollover. figured it was time for new ones. plus it'll be easier with the header install too. going to use the ol engine support and support the engine to achieve maximum room

 

nice i helped a buddy do his early gen tunny a couole years ago and we cut them off. internet searchs say remove motor mounts buy jacking enging up from oil pan or making special tools for nut removal by 2x4 jams from under truck. nobody gots time for that. buddy was good with sawsaw action but its tight but doable.

hows the new torque on the truck.?

 

That's our GMRS channel

 

Yeah, I did not remove the motor mounts. It seemed like removing those extra 6 bolts per side would offset any time gained on the 2 manifold bolts per side that they are blocking. I have heard all of the experts recommend it, so it is probably the way to go. Anyone know how high you can lift the engine with the mounts off - like 1 inch, or not at all? But for sure I would just cut those f'er's off next time. I just measured the OEM manifold pipes, and they are 14 gauge - around 0.08xx". As I said, they cut easily, like 10 seconds per tube to rip through them. That would have saved me hours.

For sure I can feel the extra torque! It is not life changing, but it's there. The truck is just quicker and more responsive than before. This was a cool upgrade that I would recommend to anyone with leaky manifolds, or to anyone who just want a little more grunt.

 

Was it not a case where you could creatively toss a swivel socket or two on and blast it with a couple of hits on an impact?

 

Yes, that is exactly what I did. I have some swivels and also wobbly extensions. I didn't need the impact though, just a 1/2" breaker bar. I did try the impact on the one bolt that would not budge, and it still did not budge, and the impact kind of dented/damaged the swivel.

 

Installed my Auxbeam 8-Gang switch panel along with my Off-road Custom Design LSP-8 today.
Also did some wire extending/rerouting from a very poorly installed (not by me!) brake controller (not pictured).

 

Killer. That looks great. Not sure I have that much stuff that I'd want to switch, but I like the way it looks and make that space on the truck useful!

Of course two sets of FJ Trail Team rims showed up rather close to me. One is a 6-rim set with tires and the other is just the rims. I'm kind of over swapping things out right now, however.

 

Got my shell back from the painter today. Started the decal replacement (SR5) with more to come. Found a leer dealer with boot material. Nice to make a little progress.

 

Ok, Alt-s time. Now I have to figure our direction.

 

And it looks like I have exactly one seized bolt/nut preventing me from executing my grille swap. Anyone have a good idea? Can’t reach the head as it’s inside the plastic and spinning freely. Tried to grab the tail and hold it but I guess I didn’t eat my spinach tonight?

 

Something like that? The stud spinning in the grill? Break the grill off then hold the other side. That’s the easiest way to get it off. Otherwise you cut the nut kff

 

I figured that's the way. The plastic is surprisingly robust. It will take some real hacking to get access. And I'm not even sure what the head looks like but hopefully I can get some purchase on it or at least grind the head down.

Probably need new nuts now too though.

 

Hmm, that's a tough one. It's late, so maybe spray some penetrating oil on it and sleep on it. If you could cut through the face of the nut, in line with the bolt, then it would come off easily. Is it ok to mangle the white piece or the black?

 

You guys think pb blaster overnight is going to do anything useful?

 

may. If you have a small torch (like a pencile torch) some heat with penetrate may help tomorrow. shove something between the body and grill to put pressure on the stud to stop it from spinning too.

 

It can't hurt, and might help. Best is the sleep. Clears your head - always mangle with a clear head