Bad steering rack bushings

During an alignment, the shop found that my truck has a worn steering rack bushing. Hopefully I can have it covered under warranty but am unsure if the 7" BDS lift or the 35" tires will void the warranty. Has anyone experienced this? What is the cost of the repair? I had the lift installed at a shop and will find the receipt before my appointment.

 

The shop said they'd have to remove the center piece of the lift and that they didn't have the right equipment to complete the task. They replaced the same bushings on my friends Tacoma for a little over 200$. For the Tundra they recommended to have the dealership to replace the bushings. Do you think the lift and wheels will void the warranty on this part?

 

After my appointment at the Toyota, they denied a warranty claim stating that the tires and lift were the cause of the bad bushings and the repair bill would be $2700+ to replace the steering rack. Said to pull the engine to get to the rack and that they don't replace only the bushings. I bought Energy Suspension steering rack bushings for the 2007-13 Tundra instead of replacing the rack and went to an independent shop. You can see where the shop had to cut holes out of the crossmember to drop the bolts to fit a chisel up to get the sleeves out. He then just welded the new piped metal. Something to consider about your Tundra. I should've replaced the stock bushings when I had the lift installed. .

 

I have a '16 with that same lift, but bigger wheels and tires (20x12s w/ 38x15.50s). What issues were you having? I have Coaches's poly rack bushings, I just haven't had them installed yet bc the shop that built my truck quoted me $1200 originally to swap the bushings then dropped it to $600. Coach says it can be done as you mentioned in a couple of hours or less.

 

After alignments, as soon as I hit a big hole, the alignment would be thrown off again and when putting the truck in reverse while turning, the truck would make a loud clank every time. It started happening after riding my truck at the dunes and hitting woops hard, now I have rubbing while turning in reverse but it will be fixed.

To replace the bushings, the notched holes is the only way I can see it completed with out removing the engine or dropping the front suspension. The shop thought he could replace the bushings by removing all tie rods and replacing through the holes for the tie rods but wasn't able. I bought the bushings and the shop charged $450 @ $75/hour to replace and weld.

 

Had a question on your tire and wheel set up looking to put on 20s with 37" tires but I'm clueless on what kind of offset or back space to get. Do you have any pictures

 

I like the notch idea. I'm going to have to do this soon.

 

I have no lift, but I may have a similar issue. My truck will not hold alignment, and I get a loud metal-on-metal popping/clanking sound after I straighten out from a turn. Advice for me on how to figure out if its the steering rack bushings?

 

You may have bent the cam tabs if it won't hold alignment.

 

with someone behind the wheel and a person on the ground while looking at the steering rack. Turn the steering wheel both ways, if you can see play in the rack where the bolts are, the bushings are bad.

 

probably need to do that on a flat surface or on a lift correct?

 

Id think as long as the wheel height is the same, it'd be alright.

 

So what is it about the bds lift and bigger tires that blows the steering rack if someone doesn't mind me asking? Just the added stress?

 

What side do you get it from? I get the same sound but my alignment seems fine and I have no lift. My noise is coming from right tire.

 

Added stress from any lift and oversized tires. Ive read more seals than bushings going bad, the seals were corrected in 2013. I dont blame the lift or tires for my bushings going bad, just my driving style.

 

It's not just BDS. I am on my 4th rack one blew on spacers and the other 2 on 5100's with 35's. No issues since I went to Long Travel and I drive harder. Dealer replaced PS pump and all lines but mine is a 2010

 

What about long travel you think made a difference?

 

The geometry is better and within spec is my guess. Plus its the new design PS rack. I have a brand new 5th rack sitting in my garage as a backup - but don't want to go there.

I also told her I was gonna ditch her for a Raptor is she gave me any more problems.

 

nahhh the BDS kit has super skookum cam tabs .. thats not it

 

OP not at all, the BDS kit specifically had an issue with its first gen spindles they tried to change it but didnt get much better, adding CB tie rods helps save the rack a bit, but honestly @n2deep is right there was issues with early racks, but if your truck is 2014 or newer you should have the new rack, you have to get a specific rack model. Also the shop did a cool move on the bracket with the pipe great idea, Ive swapped two racks on my truck personally and the dealer has done two. and you do not have to pull the engine thats just what the book says. I have the BDS kit so speaking from experience

 

But I replied to Russell who has no lift and can't hold an alignment - Cause I don't know chit about BDS other than I don't have it on my truck.

Get off the interwebs cause you have work to do. Ripping out that BDS kit.

 

Dumb question.. but I don't need to get an alignment after swapping the bushings, right?

 

I would to be sure...

If you disconnected tie rods or disassembled or loosened Any lower control arm bolts

absolutely

 

I didn’t need one

 

Yea, i get it to be safe. At the moment, I'm just not keen on spending another ~$100 on alignment because I just got the truck aligned less than a week ago after I put new OEM LCAs and spindles in.

 

where do you get your alignment? some places if no adjustments are needed they will just throw it up on the rack and check it for free.

you could at least call them and ask.

 

Not sure if you have a Firestone near you and if it can handle your tire size, but I got the $200 lifetime alignment at the Firestone near me and have already used them twice. My tire size is smaller than yours, though, at only 285/75/17. I know some shops claim their "drive-up" shop lifts can only handle up to a certain tire size (the one in DeSoto, TX was like that). Thought I'd throw that out there as a possible option.

By the way, your Tundra is one of my all-time favorites.

 

Finally finished the bushings. I was able to keep the upper shaft of the steering column from rotating to avoid breaking it. However, as I moved the rack itself around to get to the bushings, the lower shaft of the steering column rotated a bit. I rotated it back by hand to match my matchmarks up with the upper shaft. Is that okay or did I fuck something up?