What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

toyotas peak numbers typically are only OK. but their implementation of VVTI leads to VERY broad power bands which makes them pretty damn good while not taxing the engine too much.. thats why they'll last so damn long




but hey if you do the swap i'll totally buy your intake manifold and throttle body... uncles truck needs some pep added to her step and 05-06 ACIS manifolds help

 

...Posted about it.
Hey guys, relatively new to the forum, been getting caught up on this thread for the past two months( yes, . Tons of stuff learned from you guys, there really is a wealth of knowledge and entertainment here.
I have had my 2006 double cab XSP for about three years, got it from original owner with 163k and now have 209k, but here's what I have done to the truck the past two months:
Timing belt, waterpump, thermostat, coolant hoses, serp belt
Spark plugs
Throttle body and MAF sensor cleaning
Tire rotation
Greased the driveshafts
Goals in the next 6 months
Tires
chrome delete
Replace radiator

 

Welcome to the party, nice looking truck!

 

I looked this morning. Ethanol Free gas is $4.12/gallon or 26% more than regular gas. In TN it's not even remotely close to being worth buying for 1mpg gain.Going from 15 to 16 mpg is a 6.6% increase.

 

Truth. Same price differences here in NC typically. Ethanol free is only worth it in the yard equipment.

 

Thank you.

 

Got my truck back. Mechanic says driveline angles are good, I made a mistake in the measuring the length of my driveshaft. When he put it on the hoist and ran it, the vibration was gone so it's not in the driveline. He did notice that my tires are cupped. Not sure how two tire shops missed that. It seems as though that's the most likely culprit at this point.

My Cooper ST Maxx are 5 years old now. I put on my winter tires in a couple weeks so we'll see if anything changes then..

 

I had the same cup issue with the exact same tire, as mine are just as old. What I did was lower the air pressure, and problem was solved.

Also, have you checked your driveshaft center support bearing?

 

Tire shops (some not all) over inflate the tires to cause people to panic and purchase tires.

 

I'll try lowering the air pressure. My center support bearing is brand new, just replaced last month.

I checked that after I got it back. The pressure is right at the 40psi I normall run.

 

That's so sexy!!!!!

I know it's brand new, but what are your initial thoughts on the swap? Is it worth it? What did you have on it before?

 

It didn't, everything worked fine, just wanted to see if there is a better fix.

 

What are you running your coopers at?

 

40 is high. Door tag on mine recommends 26psi for fronts. I run about 32psi front and rear. Unless carrying a load, then I air up.

 

Well, I'm not running OEM size. 26psi seems really low. When I get down below 30psi, it feels slushy and unresponsive. I burn noticeably more fuel then too.

 

It’s a little early to say. I’ve read a lot of people get a mushy pedal after this swap. Mine doesn’t seem like that. I don’t think atleast. Going to The sand dunes tomorrow and it’s a 6 hour round trip so I should have some more feedback one that’s over. So for now it’s just for cool points lol.

 

35psi seems just right to me on 285/70/17's

 

I’m running CooperDiscoverer/T MAXX LT295/70r18, and will keep buying them even though the price has gone up substantially.

 

Yes sir thst is what I've been reading also, it's almost like a 50-50 good and bad.I wonder what is creating the mushy brakes.

 

What is premium? Do you run the lowest octane or mid grade?

 

I also have st maxx’s and will buy again very soon, great tire. What psi are you running them at on the road?

 

You guys are leaving me no room to go with anything else it seems. I guess I just need to trip upon some sort of deal and decide on my exact size. Then $1500 later I should be good for 10 years.

 

I run 87. Premium is around $1 more than 87 last I looked.

 

Started de-wood-graining the interior today. Was half and half on wrapping it, but the plastic is in pretty good shape. Def. took some time to clean off the adhesive, and it's a good excuse to deep clean under the trim too. As you can see those non-OEM door handles I replaced last week, while functionally 100% better than the broken ones I had, do not really match that well. They are cooler/bluer in hue vs. the dark grey trim above it. And darker than the OEM lighter great trim. They look worse in the picture than the do IRL regarding the color matching. But it's annoying.

The black center console cleaned up really nice. Being protected since 2006 likely had something to do with it...

I started with the door that had the broken ash tray in case I didn't like the outcome. But I do. So I just hot glued the door shut. Rattle solved (at least that one, only like 6 more to track down...).

 

Wow that's nuts. Around here mid grade is maybe .15 more than regular and premium is another .15 more. Abouts.

 

91 on one page and 87 on the other, right around 20 cents difference here

 

Yeah around here 87-91 is usually close to a dollar more, then that station that does carry non ethanol is like 30 cents or so more than 91 and it’s only 89oct

 

I run ethanol-free in my lawn mowers and minibike. I’ll get about 4 gallons at a time. Keeps the carbs happier for longer. My ‘88 blazer was noticeably more powerful on e-free but i also doctor my gas with stabil and lucas fuel conditioner.

 

I remember growing up the different levels were always .10 increments. $1.50, $1.60, $1.70 for example. I wonder what changed? I haven't purchased premium in years.

 

That's a great question. I remember it being .10 increments too but gas was also no more than maybe $1.75/ gal. I guess it depends what the extra cost of pulling the gas out at a higher level in the stack or condensing deal or whatever it is. I vaguely remember from my crash course when trying for a sweet refinery gig.